Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Did anyone figure out the trick on white lettering the raised letters on the Heating/Cooling knobs on the late roadsters? I have tried so many ways, and google gives me nothing that works. I've spent more $ on ink and tools then these are worth. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Here’s an idea I haven’t tried ....With a toothpick put some dielectic grease in the areas below the letters, so the paint won’t stick. Now get a makeup sponge or piece of memory foam to dab the paint onto the letters (appliance paint) or some use the whiteout stuff for typing correction, it comes in a pen. Let it dry then clean up the grease with a paper towel, q tip or whatever
Linda

I masked the sides and my wife painted the lettering with a brush and white acrylic paint. I assume a few layers and carefully bushed on.

Dry brush with Testors gloss white.
Dan

since we are conjecturing, how about whiteout TAPE. Handy little dispensers, just hit the high spots and then dust with 'clear'.

I don't know, but conjecturing I would think something akin to a printing ink transfer process. Tape the sides, paint an even coat on something flat like glass, and lightly press the knob on the glass to transfer some paint.

You can take a common round lead pencil eraser and use that to dab the paint on. Same process as "pad printing". Just wipe most of the paint off the eraser so it only has a slight covering of paint. The eraser tip obviously needs to be flat. Might need several layers. Put the paint on a flat surface and use the eraser to gather it up. Don't dip the eraser in the paint.Thicker paint is better.

Done it many times

This is great info...
I have a couple of related questions –– how about painting the black recessed lettering on the 'lever slide control plates' and toggle switch plates? ("open", "shut", "light", "fog", "heater", etc.) And... how about the white recessed lettering on the push/pull knobs (cigarette lighter, clutch, wiper, etc.) Seems like something that should be done BEFORE a strong cup of jittery coffee.

Linda wrote: Wed Jul 08, 2020 9:45 pm Here’s an idea I haven’t tried ....With a toothpick put some dielectic grease in the areas below the letters, so the paint won’t stick. Now get a makeup sponge or piece of memory foam to dab the paint onto the letters (appliance paint) or some use the whiteout stuff for typing correction, it comes in a pen. Let it dry then clean up the grease with a paper towel, q tip or whatever
Linda

To add a techniqe that I haven't tried either, there are liquid making products. I would avoid the industial stuff and go with the hobby stuff. Vallejo products has some. It is a rubbery product that peels off when you are done with it.

I use the Testors model paint for this also. It's thick so fills well.
After cleaning the item to be painted and removing any loose flakes, I use a small bursh and apply a small amount of paint over the letters being careful to flow the paint into corners but not worrying about any paint on the surface.
I let the paint dry a little while then take a small block of wood and wrap the block with a xcrap of low/no nap fabric like an old tee shirt.
Dampen the fabric with lacquer thinner and wipe across the painted area. Don't soak the fabric with thinner, you want it damp, not dripping.
The idea is to remove the "overspray" area but not dig into the recess so a gentile wipe is best.
A little practice and you can produce a result that looks factory (maybe better because some of the factory stuff wasn't that great).
Dan

Thanks Dan, that sounds straightforward and like a good idea. Does the paint essentially fill the letters to be flush with the plate/knob?

And as I look at the photo I attached, y'all probably know this... but I want to mention that I used Mother's Chrome Polish on the toggle bezels, and that stuff is a miracle worker! I thought they were rusted beyond repair, but virtually every bit of rust came off and left the original satin finish nearly perfect... with the exception of a few pin-head-sized imperfections. The result was night and day. Unfortunately, I don't have them with me, but when I have them, I will post photos of before and after. Don't give up on any chrome before trying that Mother's.

On small insets, the paint will pretty much fill the "dip". If the area is wide (say 1/8" or more, the cloth will remove more toward the middle of the stroke but you have to look carefully to see it. Also, as the paint dies, it looses some volume. My experience is that it stays pretty flush at the edges but the thickness reduces a bit toward the center of the character width.
Yes, the Mother's products work well. I have thier aluminum polish as well as the chrome polish.
Dan

Look at Unicorn Spriso post. He has a "pen" to do those letters. Like a Hypo needle.

Thanks Dan and Eye. I'll check it out.