Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Guess I'm doing it the hard way, and failing.

Is there an easy way to install the stock sway bar? I have new bushings and the bar has been powdercoated.

Thanks.

I put all the bushings on the bar. I then hung the front loosely with just one bolt put in. Did the ends and then went back to the front ones. The little caps are fiddly.

Do you need a DROPS intervention?

Place on 6ft auto lift ,pull wheels
Get out half inch impact , pry bar for the ends
Is my method

redroadster wrote: Fri Jun 26, 2020 6:56 pm Place on 6ft auto lift ,pull wheels
Get out half inch impact , pry bar for the ends
Is my method

Yeah, that's not gonna work for me.

Curtis wrote: Fri Jun 26, 2020 6:49 pm I put all the bushings on the bar. I then hung the front loosely with just one bolt put in. Did the ends and then went back to the front ones. The little caps are fiddly.

Bushings are on bar, but no way do the ends want to go in.

redroadster wrote: Fri Jun 26, 2020 6:56 pm Place on 6ft auto lift ,pull wheels
Get out half inch impact , pry bar for the ends
Is my method

Why would you need an impact wrench for the sway bar? Four little bolts and two screws.

With the main brackets/bushings loosely mounted, You then need to put a jack under the control arm and lift it into a position where the sway bar bolts up, for me it was easy-peasy once I got the control arm raised. Make sure to torque everything down when done.

Curtis wrote: Fri Jun 26, 2020 7:20 pm

redroadster wrote: Fri Jun 26, 2020 6:56 pm Place on 6ft auto lift ,pull wheels
Get out half inch impact , pry bar for the ends
Is my method

Why would you need an impact wrench for the sway bar? Four little bolts and two screws.

Because with the 3 things I named, its already done ...its all bout the tools
My pry bars go up to 6ft long

Coat the end bushings with silicone di-electric grease or dish soap to help them slide into the a-arm. Pry bar and a few choice "mechanics" words can help. FWIW Pat

dynaguy wrote: Sat Jun 27, 2020 10:17 am Coat the end bushings with silicone di-electric grease or dish soap to help them slide into the a-arm. Pry bar and a few choice "mechanics" words can help. FWIW Pat

I guess I was lucky, I've put on 3 now and didn't need any of that. Now, getting A arms apart that was a pain. Big nuts are tough.

I did the same thing Curtis did and other than having to clamp the little bracket that goes over the a-arm bushing to get the bolt started it was pretty easy. I did have my wheels on as well and did not have to do anything with the lower control arm. A jack would work to get it lined up though in your case.

S

The only thing I remember about this job was that I broke one of the little bolts and had to use the tap.
I don’t own a crowbar so guess it is possible to do it without one!
Not much help, but if I can, you can.
Linda

notoptoy wrote: Fri Jun 26, 2020 10:45 pm With the main brackets/bushings loosely mounted, You then need to put a jack under the control arm and lift it into a position where the sway bar bolts up, for me it was easy-peasy once I got the control arm raised. Make sure to torque everything down when done.

Yes, the only reason you need to jack the control arm in this situation is because the wheels are off the ground and the suspension extended. My car was in the same situation and it was darn near impossible to get the sway bar on, until I jacked the control arm into the level position. Yes, it was a bit of a "hand to the forehead" moment of Duh!

Here's my sway bar installed. Guy had it unused on ebay and no one took note of it being a comp bar, $80. As was noted I placed the jacks under the A arms at the shock mount.


I had to torque the spindle nut and there's not much space. Didn't do it off the car. Bought a short socket from NAPA for $8.50 and it was still too long. So I marked a line with my plumbing pipe cutter and took the grinder to it. Fits now.

If the sway bar doesn't go on easily, something is wrong. You likely have one of the poorly bent ones that will cause issues from now till you fix the thing. My 23mm Nissan Comp bar from 20 years ago was bent incorrectly. I used everything I could think of to get it into place. It broke the end links like they were made of glass. I compared the shape of it to my stock bar and found it wasn't even close. Knowing this, I broke out an oxy-acetline torch, heated the corners of the bar and bent them to match the stock bar (that could be installed in about 10 minutes.) After fixing the angles of the bends, the 23mm bar could be installed in about 10 minutes as well. (Car on the ground, remove the end link plates, then remove the front pivots. To install, place the end links in the correct place on the lower A arms, then install the pivot caps at the front, and then the end link clips on the lower A arms.)

If it doesn't go on easily, something isn't right.

Will

Finally finished install. Key item was getting the lower A-arms as horizontal as possible. Can't believe this wasn't obvious to me from the beginning. This was difficult with no weight on a bare frame. Other very helpful suggestions were "lubing" the end bushings with dishwashing soap, and squeezing the end bushing covers to get retaining bolt in. Speaking of that bolt, I replaced them with stainless Allen heads. However.......

In the process, I discovered the right sway bar tower had been "tweaked" sometime in the past. Notice the front weld is broken, and the slight fold under the longer weld (red arrows):


This results in the sway bar mostly centered, but pushed "back" on the right side. Note the differences between the right and left:


Is this going to be a problem for spirited street driving? I'm thinking not, but figured I would ask anyway.

Thanks.