Teardrop Light Conversion
Posted: Fri Jun 19, 2020 1:09 am
A couple of you have asked how I did the teardrop conversion from a single element to a dual element. Here it is.
Here’s the original light. The ground was repaired on this one.
To start with I removed the original socket from the housing by supporting the sides of the housing in my vise and using an inch or metric deep socket from the tool box that was slightly larger than the bulb socket and tapping it out. I tapped it out from the inside of the socket and once I got to the bottom I used a second socket small enough to tap it out the rest of the way. I have since bought some new empty bases so I only had to put it back in.
The original socket is long and of course does not have the offset slots for a dual element. I bought some replacement sockets off the internet that are the normal length. This is good since it lets the taller bulb sit down inside a bit more. I tapped it in to match how much sticks out the back.
I removed the base from the new socket and unsoldered the wires from the base and then put on new ones in the correct Datsun colors. I used the correct colors for left and right turn signals. I added some heat shrink as well for a little extra insurance.
Here you can see the ground post on the stock housing. Most are broken and have been repaired. It is attached to the housing and is a crimp terminal. All the new sockets I bought all come with the ground wire just twisted around the spring. I just soldered it and used it that way.
The locating tabs on the socket base stick out past the socket and interfere with the base moving down when you insert the bulb. I filed them down so they would fit. Make sure you insert the base back in with wires in the correct position for the wires or you’ll end up having to hook your connectors up backwards.
Add some nice new sleeving and bullets. I put some heat shrink on and deformed the sleeving a bit. Next time I will use the higher heat tubing.
Here’s the bulb I used. Sylvania 1157 amber LED.
Here’s the original light. The ground was repaired on this one.
To start with I removed the original socket from the housing by supporting the sides of the housing in my vise and using an inch or metric deep socket from the tool box that was slightly larger than the bulb socket and tapping it out. I tapped it out from the inside of the socket and once I got to the bottom I used a second socket small enough to tap it out the rest of the way. I have since bought some new empty bases so I only had to put it back in.
The original socket is long and of course does not have the offset slots for a dual element. I bought some replacement sockets off the internet that are the normal length. This is good since it lets the taller bulb sit down inside a bit more. I tapped it in to match how much sticks out the back.
I removed the base from the new socket and unsoldered the wires from the base and then put on new ones in the correct Datsun colors. I used the correct colors for left and right turn signals. I added some heat shrink as well for a little extra insurance.
Here you can see the ground post on the stock housing. Most are broken and have been repaired. It is attached to the housing and is a crimp terminal. All the new sockets I bought all come with the ground wire just twisted around the spring. I just soldered it and used it that way.
The locating tabs on the socket base stick out past the socket and interfere with the base moving down when you insert the bulb. I filed them down so they would fit. Make sure you insert the base back in with wires in the correct position for the wires or you’ll end up having to hook your connectors up backwards.
Add some nice new sleeving and bullets. I put some heat shrink on and deformed the sleeving a bit. Next time I will use the higher heat tubing.
Here’s the bulb I used. Sylvania 1157 amber LED.