Dash harness Installation
Posted: Thu May 21, 2020 8:01 pm
Well finally got the dash harness installed. I got it about a month before Solvang but then all hell broke loose... Solvang gets cancelled so I had more time, and a good thing too. So I did not remove the dash . The fasteners were a bit rusted and I did not want to break one and have to drill and tap. I knew installing without removing the dash would be harder. Very true. I removed the center console and frreed up the steering column a bit. Getting the old harness out was not too bad I did not want to wreck it though. New one going in was challenging. I knew install would be harder but safer. I started on the driver side, got the wires thru and connected to engine harness, proceeded with all up to ammeter wires. I then went to the passenger side, got wires thru the firewall, then tried getting fusebox wires thru the grommets to the fusebox, but glovebox disintegrates.... Oops. Lots of room now...
Removed old box, then connected clock wiring which was easy now, and began on ammeter wires which were the hardest of anything. Able to reach from both sides but hard to tighten. That finished I installed fusebox to new glovebox, brought wires thru ready for connection. Got glove box in with some twisting and pushing and got a few screws on each side and the door on, top screws were pretty impossible. It holds in though. Got the center console and arm rest console reassembled after painting and refurb, and connected console harness . Everything screwed in for grounding. In the engine bay I connected together the BW and BW w white band wires and taped off the other 2 to complete the circuit. I have an EI dizzy that triggers an MSD system so all wires not needed. I primed the carbs and preoiled without starting, then ignition...Most everything works now except Brake pressure light and L turn signal, may be the bulb, and horn. Will have to check all connections and switches.
Thru all I noticed the excellent quality of terminals, covers, connectors and taping and how every wire was right next to where it was supposed to connect, and the right length, amazing. Kudos to Curtis for a fine product and tech support. I think wiring gets overlooked but it shouldn’t. At some point after a break for some driving, I will want to tackle the rear harness. Curtis is pretty busy but nice products are worth waiting for.
Much appreciated , Curtis
Linda
one wire left

Removed old box, then connected clock wiring which was easy now, and began on ammeter wires which were the hardest of anything. Able to reach from both sides but hard to tighten. That finished I installed fusebox to new glovebox, brought wires thru ready for connection. Got glove box in with some twisting and pushing and got a few screws on each side and the door on, top screws were pretty impossible. It holds in though. Got the center console and arm rest console reassembled after painting and refurb, and connected console harness . Everything screwed in for grounding. In the engine bay I connected together the BW and BW w white band wires and taped off the other 2 to complete the circuit. I have an EI dizzy that triggers an MSD system so all wires not needed. I primed the carbs and preoiled without starting, then ignition...Most everything works now except Brake pressure light and L turn signal, may be the bulb, and horn. Will have to check all connections and switches.
Thru all I noticed the excellent quality of terminals, covers, connectors and taping and how every wire was right next to where it was supposed to connect, and the right length, amazing. Kudos to Curtis for a fine product and tech support. I think wiring gets overlooked but it shouldn’t. At some point after a break for some driving, I will want to tackle the rear harness. Curtis is pretty busy but nice products are worth waiting for.
Much appreciated , Curtis
Linda
one wire left