Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Hey all,

I had my 67 , with a 67.5 1600, running great for a couple of weeks and then it started cutting out until it died completely. I changed out the condenser and was able to get it started, but it still runs rough. Pulling the plug to check the spark, it seems very inconsistent. I will get some real nice ones, some very weak yellow ones, and sometimes it will completely miss one. That is pretty much in line with how it was running. The coil was replaced not long ago, think it is fried, or bigger problems? Is it best to just get an electronic distributor and be done?

Have you set the points?

Coils will usually quit when in use, because they will heat up and a spot in the windings will open. Coils don't fail anywhere near as much as other components to the ignition. Have you inspected the inside of the cap carefully? Do you have voltage consistently to the points? I have an EI on two antiques but not my roadster. It is best to have it running well before putting one in. They are more about preventing maintenance and problems than solving one. You may just take on another whole set of problems by having another ball in the air.

If you have points, that little pigtail wire can be a pain if it is broken inside. Suggest to test or just get another one. BTDT
Linda

As said, check the inside of the cap for arc tracks (due to dirt or moisture), check the center contact button on the cap, the do fall out, the connection wire as Linda said and lastly, check, clean and or change the rotor, you can clean the contact edge and top with emery clothe - check the cap internal [lug wire contacts for wear and corrosion. Or just change the cap, rotor, condenser and points all together as I do with every tune up! It isnb't rare to have a bad condenser out of the box...

2X what Joe said about condensers being bad out of the box. Always test an old condenser before discarding snd a new one before installing.

Check the resistor on the coil for the points it might be just be on it’s way out.

Thanks for the replies. The points were definitely not set correctly, virtually no gap (darn kids and their lack of understanding of points...) I set those to .48 mm. Would that maybe have fried the condenser? It started and ran quite a bit longer, but still eventually dies. The rpm is also high, around 2700, almost like fuel starvation, but it is definitely getting fuel. So I am still thinking ignition. I may order another condenser and points and see if that helps. I had put on a new cap rotor points resistor and condenser all when I got the car, so they don't have much time on them. I will also change the small wire in there to see if that is the culprit.

A easy test of a pts. condenser is
With another car remove 1 plug wire , ground said condenser at base to engine , pigtail wire to SP wire ,
run ( let arc ) 7 sec.
Remove condenser carefully by only touching the insulatied wire or base .
Place condenser on say the kitchen table ?, or teens area ?
Service dept , Parts counter window always a good place
Wait for cussing from person who didn't. Hold it as noted

Why is it idling at 2700rpms? And it just eventually dies...? Does it sputter and die like it runs out of fuel (you said it's getting fuel)? Can you keep it alive with short blasts of starting fluid to substitute for fuel? Nothing to lose by changing out the condenser. Again .

Did you check the ballast resistor on the coil as David suggested? It might be going open (circuit) with a little heat or vibration from running

I replaced the points and the small braided wire, that improved things quite a bit. It still gargles and has no throttle response, but it will stay running. I ordered a new condenser and resistor. If I just change everything maybe something will stick. Haha.

Sounds like some carb issues now?
Be sure to check the ballast resistor, as Dave said, it might be rusted out or broken in the back
But in case there is any intermittent running, you might also want to check other vital electrical connections, as the issue may not be totally distributor related. Here is a thread on the starter harness and how it can create problems if the connections are not good.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=32930
Highly recommend a new starter harness or a good cleaning to help ensure better performance since it gets baked right there in the engine.
Good job with reporting back so everyone can learn.
Linda

loadtoad87 wrote: ↑Fri Apr 10, 2020 9:42 am I replaced the points and the small braided wire, that improved things quite a bit. It still gargles and has no throttle response, but it will stay running. I ordered a new condenser and resistor. If I just change everything maybe something will stick. Haha.

With A multimeter, a ohms and or voltage drop tests will rule out weak connection. problems.
..in the future. Easy on the 311s. Not so much now adays

Well, good news! It is back to running well. New points were on and made some difference, but slapped a new condenser on and it runs good. The replacement resistor gave me no spark at all, so I stayed with the newish one.

I definitely need to work the carbs now since I started changing things when I thought it could have been a fuel issue.

So root cause, my guess is because I am a newb with points and didn't have enough gap, that caused the condenser to build up too much charge and fry itself? Any other options other than the condenser just going bad that quickly? I put maybe 50 miles on it, I hope you all get more out of one than that... Haha. Thanks for the suggestions, you were all a big help.