67.5 SPL 14262 Red Bumper Special

[iloveredmeat]

Wow Rob, nice hack on the lock grommet... maybe a spray of dull silver to match your console???

Anyway, everything looks awesome. Inspiring.

Keep up the momentum!
Peter

[D P]

Then we get a road inspection and drive for the summer. Once I've shaken it down and sorted all the things, then we start planning for:

20220213_132819.jpg

Nice looking CA! Do you mind advising on what exhaust manifold and turbo combo you are using?

Thanks!

[vorpal]

Then we get a road inspection and drive for the summer. Once I've shaken it down and sorted all the things, then we start planning for:

20220213_132819.jpg

Nice looking CA! Do you mind advising on what exhaust manifold and turbo combo you are using?

Thanks!

The manifold is a $ 100.00 Ebay special... I have a custom manifold maker here in town and he said he could make one for ~ $ 1500.00... I decided to take my chances with it first... if it fails, I'll get him to make one.

20220212_150011.jpg

The turbo is a off the shelf Garrett GT28 from ATP turbo... i ordered it and all the lines/fittings for the CA engine.

The turbo /manifold is a V-band setup so I can clock the turbo downpipe away from the steering rod:

20220212_163551.jpg

Will have to have a custom V-band downpipe made, will get that done when we do engine test fitting.

[D P]

Very nice, thanks. I was looking at the same ones from eBay and was also considering rolling the dice. Fingers crossed for you!

[davdav2000]

Small update:

Installed the door cards and put new lock pulls on... however, had no grommet for the locks. they rattled around in the hole cutouts. Bought a couple generic grommets from a big box auto supply store but they didn't fit and i didn't like the look.

Stopped at a body panel and fastener place, they had these which are bronze bushings for door pins:

20230322_173045.jpg

The 15-14551 were the correct size and fit:

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They fit snugly into the hole with a collar around the top:

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And the plastic lock body is a perfect fit in both up and down positions:

[davdav2000]

I meant to add The grommets are still available from Nissan:
https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/ni ... Y1w3TJeqeg

[vorpal]

Weekend update, couple steps forward, couple steps back...

- Got the headlight relay wired properly, high and low work in the correct switch position (was reversed)
- All dash lights work, had the signals reversed and the high beam indicator and tach illumination switched around...moved all bulbs to the correct locations.
- got the signals working... ran a separate wire from the fuse block to the flasher connector as there was no 12V coming through the green wire. Found that I have a connector hanging off the underdash harness that's meant for the missing hazard switch:

20230325_131226.jpg

Will see about getting the missing switch from Ross.

Now the horn:

Started with direct battery power to the horn connector itself. One horn works, one dead. Continuity checked the wiring from the relay to each horn... both fine. 12V power to the relay, grounded, horn works. Under dash bullet connectors from the combination switch: ground direct honks the horn as well. So the problem has to be in the switch. Found it:

Missing the sprung contact that grounds the steering wheel, wire was cut:

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So I fabbed up a spring connector from a bulb connector off the old dead wiring harness:

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Reassembled everything with a new rubber spring gasket and the winner is

20230326_124401.jpg

Nope! Still no horn. Chatted with Ross, he has a combo switch with the contact intact. Will try that as everything else is good.

So +2 on lights, -1 on horn.

Radio works, with the Aurora upgrade, all 4 speakers powered. Bluetooth and USB work great:

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+ 1 for radio

Checked the diff... main seal leaking pretty good... will need replacement:

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On the order list for Monday...

Last install of the day, the silicone cowl drain, I noticed some coolant dripping from the firewall/heater hose junction, sure enough, something's split there, sigh.

Cowl drain hose, +1
Leaking heater connection -1

So overall, more + than - this weekend.

[Gregs672000]

Things are looking great Rob! In the under dash pic, I noted the surface rust. Mine was the same and 37 years ago I treated it with Sems Rust Seal, a permanent rust converter that does not require a top coat of paint. The rust has never returned and turns to a dark blackish color. It can be applied with a paint or foam brush. Just thought I'd share in case it bugs you!

[vorpal]

Thanks Greg... eventually the body is coming off the frame for the CA conversion and I'll address the floor pans and surface rust... I'll file away that recommendation for Sems... thanks!

[C.Costine]

Nearly every oil leak will look like the rear main seal. Three times since I got on the road in May 2000, I thought that I had a rear main leak but careful investigation revealed first a fuel pump leak, then a gallery plug in the back of the head, and then an oil filter mating surface. Pretty much wherever it leaks it ends up dripping from the block/transmission interface.

[vorpal]

Nearly every oil leak will look like the rear main seal.

Yes, I have that as well... however I know for certain it's the diff as the car has not run for 3.5 years in the garage and I have drip trays underneath as the rear diff loses a few drops a week. Pretty sure it's mostly empty by now.

[vorpal]

More progress on the weekend with the help of fellow roadster owner Steve and Shaun from our local Z Club:
(attachments are all rotated for some reason... click for correct pic)

Diff leaking through the seal:

20230326_102901.jpg

So up it goes to pull the diff for replacement:

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Steve does a QC inspection on the diff housing:

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Cleaning 55 years of accumulated baked on road crapola:

20230407_122938.jpg

Reinstalled with new gasket:

20230407_132100.jpg

And after the fluid fill, no leaks on the garage floor the next morning:

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Assorted electrical fixits... got a flasher switch which was completely missing and replacement signal/combination switch that had the horn ground contact couresty of Ross:

20230331_171529.jpg

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Did a quick fix on my leaking rad cap... bent the holding pins level. they were pulled out quite a bit:

20230408_132135.jpg

Also got the license plate light working (new connectors) and installed a replacement voltage regulator. This fixed the temp gauge but the gas gauge moves slightly and then drops back down... need to pull the sender and check the variable resistor.

So for the first time in 4 years, backed it out and drove it around the block to the gas station and back:

20230409_124715.jpg

Items needing attention:

- Speedo not working
- dust shield rattle on DR tire
- front brakes need bleeding, did a quick bleed on the rear when we pulled the axles out for the diff seal.

Getting closer and closer... parked with its direct descendant:

20230409_150114.jpg

[S Allen]

Looking good. Awesome progress.

S

[vorpal]

Well, two stubborn fixits remain: gas gauge and speedometer.

Pulled the speedo cable and 90 degree connector fitting... put Lady Vorpal in the driver's seat and ran the lift up high enough to get underneath. Hooked up to my Dewalt cordless drill...

Spins clockwise...

Vorpal: 'Anything?!?'
Lady Vorpal 'Nope'

Spins counter-clockwise

Vorpal 'How about now?"
Lady Vorpal 'Yes, it's working. Now how about getting me down from here?'

Thanked Lady V and brought the lift down. Hooked everything back up and went around the block... nothing.

OK, back up in the air, this time pulled the pinion with gear from the trans. Had some chipped teeth, but overall not completely damaged (out of focus pic):

20230416_095619.jpg

Felt inside the trans, found the drive gear, teeth felt fine but of course can't see them. Reinstalled the pinion to the correct depth with the keyed locking washer.... it felt like it engaged the drive gear. Reinstalled the cable. Brought it down. Went around the block...

Nope. Damn.

What I *didn't* do was try and rotate the end of the shaft of the gear with the pinion installed and see if it was not engaging the drive gear. Will try that later. Cable, connector and gauge work...

So, fail on speedo

Now the gas gauge.

Installed new voltage regulator from Ross, that fixed the temp gauge. New harness as well from the sender to the main rear harness. Continuity checked the wires to the front bullet connectors, all good. Tested the gauge by grounding the yellow wire with the key on... gas gauge starts to rise but stops and drops just above the E.

Recleaned all contacts, reassembled everything and fired it up. Gauge rises to about 1/4 full!!!!

Drive around the block, park it and then key back on. Gauge starts to rise and then falls at the E mark again.

Sigh, out of time today.

[vorpal]

Little update. Had a mechanic friend over to do a pre-inspection on red. He found a few things:

- Rear Passenger leaf spring mount bolts loose in frame
- rear diff brace frame mount point broken
- front lower ball joints have play
- all ball joint boots need replacing

in addition to the things I already knew I had to fix:

- Speedo pinion not engaging - new one coming from Ross
- need to swap temp and gas sender wires, probably have them reversed at the bullet connector bunch in the firewall.

Had a Z club buddy come over and weld in the broken brace bracket:

20230507_120449.jpg

20230507_124849.jpg

Just need a little cleanup and paint.

Started with the steering arm ball joints:

20230514_105830.jpg

Cleaned up and boot installed

20230514_105821.jpg

20230514_105834.jpg

Reinstalled and straightened, stripped and painted the lower air guide metal tray

20230514_153223.jpg

Now I need to pull the sway bar, clean it up and install new bushings.


In the fun dept... got a delivery notification for a piece I had ordered... took the service vehicle for pickup

20230506_144347.jpg

MGB GT lower airdam from Moss Motorsports: https://mossmotors.com/catalogsearch/re ... &q=475-195

Some test fitting:

20230514_144105.jpg

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and the bumper covers the join nicely:

20230514_144531.jpg

Will install permanently after painting and getting the car inspected for registration.