The Resource For All Things Datsun Roadster S211/SPL212/310/311 Datsun Sports Roadster 1959-April 1970 circa 40,000 produced
https://www.311s.org/phpBB3/
I was going to say the same thing here about the rust spot seen on the rear. I too have used SEM products, including Rust Mort. I prefer their Rust Seal as it does not have to be coated/painted to maintain the protection like Rust Mort. Used it 34 years ago and the treated areas that are still exposed remain rust free. I would clean out crevasses where sheet metal meet up (like where, inside the trunk, the wheel well meets the fender) using a small stiff brush to get the years of dirt in the seams, blow it out or vacuum, then brush in the Rust Seal. It will seep into spots between the sheet metal and kill the rust... not perfect, but a LOT better than no treatment. I would go over the entire car looking for places to treat... there are many spots where moisture sits and rusts the car. I also used an aerosol rust converter product to spray some protection into areas that are hard to reach using a straw like that comes with carb cleaner cans (one example would be behind the front fender in the door jamb area near the hinges). You can go over the car, lightly dab rust converter into the little rock chips, and use a touch up pen to fill the spot. Smoothing out those dots with say 1000 grit sand paper (if needed) followed by the cut and buff I suggested (could probably go with a product that starts aggressive but breaks down to a very light compound) will greatly improve things and most will almost disappear.C.Costine wrote: ↑Sat Mar 28, 2020 5:10 am I recommend a little protection to stop the rust in places like where that right fender meets the valance. Some rust converter, if you get the right one, will not only convert the visible rust to iron phosphate so that it will be black instead of brown, but it will also creep in to where you can't see to stop the rust from growing. I use Rust Mort from SEM. It is watery thin and nearly colorless.
Gregs672000 wrote: ↑Sat Mar 28, 2020 11:34 amI was going to say the same thing here about the rust spot seen on the rear. I too have used SEM products, including Rust Mort. I prefer their Rust Seal as it does not have to be coated/painted to maintain the protection like Rust Mort. Used it 34 years ago and the treated areas that are still exposed remain rust free. I would clean out crevasses where sheet metal meet up (like where, inside the trunk, the wheel well meets the fender) using a small stiff brush to get the years of dirt in the seams, blow it out or vacuum, then brush in the Rust Seal. It will seep into spots between the sheet metal and kill the rust... not perfect, but a LOT better than no treatment. I would go over the entire car looking for places to treat... there are many spots where moisture sits and rusts the car. I also used an aerosol rust converter product to spray some protection into areas that are hard to reach using a straw like that comes with carb cleaner cans (one example would be behind the front fender in the door jamb area near the hinges). You can go over the car, lightly dab rust converter into the little rock chips, and use a touch up pen to fill the spot. Smoothing out those dots with say 1000 grit sand paper (if needed) followed by the cut and buff I suggested (could probably go with a product that starts aggressive but breaks down to a very light compound) will greatly improve things and most will almost disappear.C.Costine wrote: ↑Sat Mar 28, 2020 5:10 am I recommend a little protection to stop the rust in places like where that right fender meets the valance. Some rust converter, if you get the right one, will not only convert the visible rust to iron phosphate so that it will be black instead of brown, but it will also creep in to where you can't see to stop the rust from growing. I use Rust Mort from SEM. It is watery thin and nearly colorless.
I haven't used that one but I looked it up and I get the impression that you will end up with black over your yellow.ARowe84 wrote: ↑Sat Mar 28, 2020 4:17 pm Thanks everybody, great advice and recommendations! I used steel wool on the chrome today, next will be stopping the rust. In regards to stopping the rust and which product to use. Does Rust Seal also dry mostly clear like Rust Mort? I would be applying it over the paint so whatever product looks most natural would be ideal.