MORE POWER FROM AN R16

[Red CSP]

So the issue is more power for my 1966 CSP Silvia. I want to keep it looking stock and for me it is either the original engine or it isnt.

Please dont suggest an SR - if I did go non stock it would be the full way and I do have a mint turbo VQ25DET with all the wiring etc in a NM35 AWD stagea I am breaking .

So back to the original R16 which I want to retain along with the carbs.
I have read they are easy to stoke so thats almost a certainty . That and some headwork is my first thought but because I know nothing about these engines .
I dont even know what power that might give so help here would be good, It has an electric fuel pump and I am ok with keeping that if it is needed although If the oem mechanical pump can handle the power I would fit one.

Finally this may be an obvious question but how do i tell if it is 3 or 5 bearing motor as I have read that makes a difference when stroking.

I am also happy to be put right on any of the above

[Pjackb]

You need this swap
Complete U20 drivetrain , drops right in
https://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=32958

[Red CSP]

Thanks but Im in the UK so shipping that from the US would be a non starter plus I did say I didnt want an engine swop let alone change the drivetrain as well.

[Pjackb]

Thanks but Im in the UK so shipping that from the US would be a non starter plus I did say I didnt want an engine swop let alone change the drivetrain as well.

Ok got ya ,
However you posted in the engine swap section so expectation was you were looking to swap (perhaps an admin could move the thread to the tech discussions)

If your car has the original engine then most likely it’s a 3main as I believe the 5 main engine came out mid 67 but don’t quote me on this I would check with JT68 (Jim), Mike young or Richard In the Netherlands to be sure

You can stroke a 3main and get very decent power but I believe the crank required is fairly hard to find nowadays

[Red CSP]

Yes I wasnt sure where to put the post as there didnt seem to be an engine tuning section and I know your reply was trying to be helpful so thank you .

I think it has a 3 bearing engine but dont know how to check ?
I would like to keep it with the original motor and if it is 3 from what I understand there is a stroker solution which works very well.
So if any one knows what crank I need I would be very grateful .

[JT68]

G15 1500 3-main crank. Having built more than 2 engines in my life, I can tell you building a proper stroker is a lot more costly and time consuming than you might think. Its not just a "slap a crank in there" affair. There are several ways to go about it, lots of custom work no matter what. Again, quite time consuming and it certainly adds up. Many details to address and that is where the devil resides.

[spl310]

The quick easy answer is to get an H20 short block and swap blocks.

[JT68]

An H20 is a low compression forklift engine. Also used in vans in Europe/Australia etc. Direct out of a a forklift, it is a pretty lame sports car engine.
They can be (completely) re-built into very good/very fun engines though.

Having said that, an R16 can be built into a really fun street engine with the correct approach. Ask Glen (Augsburger). You don't absolutely need to stroke it to make it quick.

[Red CSP]

JT68 A good reply
My ignorance with R16s is a fact but I do realise it may be more than just a crank swop which is exactly why Im asking.
I probably should add that although I am an R16 "numpty" I do understand engines. I have for example a Stagea with a stroked Nissan RB30 running comfortably over 700bhp . I am sure the CSP project will be far less involved than that was.

Having checked my CSP details I am now pretty sure it is a 3 bearing R16 .
If it helps budget isnt an issue although nobody spends more than they have to.
And Im equally happy not to stroke it but that just seemed to me where to start. Id love someone to give me some different options.

[JT68]

That's right, if you built a stroked RB30, this should be less money than that. Probably about the same number of headaches though since RB parts are MUCH easier to source. If staying 3 main, you need a good g15 crank. Probably hard to find in the UK, but available elsewhere. New 3-main main bearings are tough to source too. You need .std or .010, no bigger if you want the crank to live. Now the fun begins. There are no off-the-shelf pistons and rods that fit. Also suggest drilling the crank if you are going to beat it hard with rpms.

10 years ago we machined some Toyota pistons for use with 1600 rod as I recall. Wouldn't do that again. Too involved and starting with a low dollar heavy cast piston isn't a great plan anyway. Domed R16 pistons are also incorrect. So to do this like a pro, you either need custom rods, custom pistons or both. I can help you with some of this stuff depending on your plan. PM or email if I can assist.

[jrusso07]

. This short write up from a SCCA racer might help you get accustomed to the R16 and its character.

https://www.datsun.org/fairlady/JoeEngine.htm

[S Allen]

Dave Premo and I built a stroked 3 main R16 for my 66 last year. I had to acquire a G15 crank which as others have said might be the biggest obstacle. They are available but getting harder to source. The three main bearings are hard to get as well as pricy. I got mine from Ross of Sports Imports out of Canada. Per the recommendations from Lou Mondello out of Australia we used Toyota 89mm pistons and the stock 1600 rods. The pistons had to be slightly decked to the block. Lou has done this multiple times with no problems. The head got bigger valves and was ported. I am running 40 Mikuni's with a custom intake and linkage setup instead of the SU's but the SU's should work just fine with a stroker. My brother ran SU's on his stroker with the correct needles. Then you may want to run a little hotter cam than the stock setup. If you are planning on using the 4 speed you would be better off swapping a 3.7 rear end in from a 2 liter car for better drivability. I am swapping in a 5 speed so the stock 3.9 that comes in the 1600 is a good match. Some say Datsun got the rear-ends back as swards as the 4 speed likes the 3.7 while the 5 speed prefers the 3.9 gearing. I have not fired the new motor up as yet but I have a 67.5 1600 which has a 5 main stroker in it and it is fun to drive. I would contact Richard in the Netherlands about help in sourcing parts. He has contacts here in the US and I am sure he would be willing to help. Here is a link to Richard's website Datsun Roadster Good luck and I know you would enjoy driving a stroked 1600.

Steve

[JT68]

https://www.datsun.org/fairlady/JoeEngine.htm


That's a great link. I talked to Col. Joe in the 90's and copied this mod on a race engine, worked great. That one had custom Carillo's too.
Joe was one of, if not the very first to make the R live at high rpms. he was fast. Everyone else blew up lol.
R's (and H's) tend to throw the #2 or 3 rod when pushed hard.

On cost, everything is relative I suppose. To Jay Leno building an R18 or R20 is like me buying a latte at Starbucks.

[Alvin]

You want more power from an R16, and don't want to play around?
Look no further than an R23! Lou Mondello (AUS) can help you.
More power than a U20 (!)

[augsburger]

The other side of the coin... I love my DRP built R16. It is an "iron head" 5 bearing JT68 built for reliability and gives me all the performance I need. For me half the fun is making the stock engine perform. Here's my 1000 mile engine... Nice Alvin....

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