Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Is this factory or aftermarket? And would it normally fit over a roll bar?
Seller says it’s for 67.5

Looks just like one I have for low windshield car. Its aftermarket maybe worth $100.00
Dan

If it has 3 latch points its late.
If it has 2 latch points should be early
Might be worth more in your area, can't give them away in Southern California.

With no distinguishing label, hard to tell whose it is. Some put it on the inside (SnugTop) and some on the outside (Dynaplastics, right over the two rivets just aft of window opening)

Since both did the faux-vinyl and two ribs on the roof (and neither support the weather seals) it really doesn't matter much at this point. (for all I know one sold the mold to the other, and production was not concurrent at both, as both are/were local to LA area)
The pinched skins interface at the front tended to have a chrome C-section pushed over it, for appearance.
The vendors have the weather seals, or a close approximation. Whether it clears the bar depends on the bar and the level of padding. (Summit makes D-section padding, borrow someone's pool noodle broken sections for trial fits is a good option)

Good info/ideas, Ferg, thanks.

I have one of these tops, no identification of the manufacturer, and was surprised to find out it wasn't the factory, course I never looked into it.
I have had this idea of doing a safari style window on it. Has anyone attempted this yet?

"Safari style", so hinged at the top and pop-out at the bottom, like the VW transporter windshields?
This could be pretty challenging, because without the glass in place, these are a pretty flexible structure.
They weren't factory, the factory ones sit on the cockpit surround (Alvin and Eric Straws come to mind) and are uber-rare. (is that term still legal, I don't have to pay royalties?)
So these aftermarket ones sit on aft deck paint, which can become an issue, as they move a lot during driving. (or is it the car moving underneath it, or both?)

Anyway, a couple of options to consider.
One member (Phil E in SD) was clever and instead of pulling down to back deck, he used eye bolts and double nuts and suspended the top up off the deck. SO then what if you did this but had the weather seal removable.
Then you would have air flow and the top would stay solid with window intact.

option 2:
Cut a whole back "glass" out of plexi/acrylic ( I have resources for doing this, can help you) and then cut 2" or 3" holes in it. (check out the 510 race car pics), either across the top or bottom or both.

Option 3: You could do your hinged bottom with the same plexi panel, and if it doesn't work out just put the glass back in. (same with side windows)

When you pop out the side window circles, measure the thickness if you don't mind.

Thanks Fergus.
You have giving me some ideas to consider, I do still want to have the "stay dry and warm(ish)" top option. Not sure about doing pop outs on the side windows, but that would be something to consider as well.
Using Plexiglas would be necessary, since glass would be too heavy, and not not knowing the type of glass drilling holes for the safari mounts is out of the question.