Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

So I’m only familiar with later model L-series with rubber donut seals. This is my first rope seal install. Other than the 2-vertical side rubber inserts does the pillow block next to the crank bearing bolts need RTV? This is a U20. It’s just metal block to shelf. Thanks

Check my post on the Wiki but it was for an R. Not sure if they're the same.

Thanx it’s done.

Not sure exactly what you're referring to, but as I recall maybe a little RTV on the rubber sides (?), but mainly just making sure the rope seal seats in well, cut flush to the top of the bearing cap, then install the crank and torque to spec. I don't recall using any RTV at all.

Again, it’s installed but the rope seal puts up a real fight when trying to turn the crank. The best I can describe the resistance is I can’t turn the crank by hand with just harmonic balancer on. I can turn it with just a wrench on just the crank bolt without balancer. Is this rather normal as it will free up some when driven?

Mine was like that, and machinist said don't worry, after it starts it will settle in.
Linda

nismou20 wrote: ↑Sun Feb 24, 2019 1:46 pm Again, it’s installed but the rope seal puts up a real fight when trying to turn the crank. The best I can describe the resistance is I can’t turn the crank by hand with just harmonic balancer on. I can turn it with just a wrench on just the crank bolt without balancer. Is this rather normal as it will free up some when driven?

Try viewing a You tube video on installing the rear main seal in a Holden V8. I have installed a few rope seals and found this very informative.

VERY informative video ! ...it makes me want to pull the engine and do the rear seal all over again, even though after 7,000 miles it doesn't seem to have any leaks from there, I did soak the rope seals in oil for a dew days, but I did not do the twisting and turning out of the package first, as they suggested...that seems like a good idea to help the seal soak in more oil....

however...I do have minor seepage everywhere else, ....oil pan, fuel pump to block, and oil filter holder to block gaskets....oddly, the cylinder head, valve cover, and timing cover are dry as a bone, though ...LOL, !

The assembly lube over the seals seems like a good idea to initially overcome resistance. I’d hate to put it all together to find that the starter doesn’t have enough oomph to turn the Flywheel over. That would be a nightmare!

nismou20 wrote: ↑Sun Feb 24, 2019 1:46 pm Again, it’s installed but the rope seal puts up a real fight when trying to turn the crank. The best I can describe the resistance is I can’t turn the crank by hand with just harmonic balancer on. I can turn it with just a wrench on just the crank bolt without balancer. Is this rather normal as it will free up some when driven?

My experience was the same. It made me worried but had come to find it's pretty normal. All has been good for several years now.