Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Well I'm back. On a 66 Datsun 1600 the front calipers are frozen up. The car has been sitting for 20 yrs. So I see there are a few options Stay with the originals looks like cost is $450 plus pads. Volvos calipers and Datsun Z300 calipers. Just would like to get some thoughts on these options plus any other ideas.
Thanks Brad

The original brakes are more than adequate, and if cared for (regular use and annual flushes) should last a very long time. There is no real need to go with an upgrade if the rest of the car is staying basically stock (no high-power engine upgrades etc.) Also, check to see if the existing are worthy of a rebuild.

The rotors also need to be within spec and turnable so the new pads bed in correctly and work well. As noted, the stock brakes work well, and there are few options that would be less expensive unless you want to do a lot of fab work. I'd evaluate your current set up carefully and see if they can be rebuilt cost effectively... are they pitted? That will make the difference I think. Others who have done this job will likely chime in... at this point you have nothing to lose by digging in a bit more.

As Greg says, you have nothing to loose by digging in a bit further.
So, if you haven't already, unbolt the calipers from the car and pull the cylinder assemblies off the caliper frames.
If you wrap the cylinder housing in a towel and apply air pressure to the inlet, the piston should pop out (CAREFULL).
Once the pistons are out, you can see waht you have and make some decisions. Measure the rotors for runout and thickness, etc.

The pistons on our '69 brakes were so stuck that after soaking a week in ATF 120 lb of air pressure stll wouldn't budge 'em. So, I put Volvo brakes on it.
Other options involve more work and more money . So far the Volvo setup works fine but it's not much lighter, if any, than the stock setup.

So, pull 'em off the car and take 'em apart. Let us know what you find.

Dan

I have already removed the cylinder from the caliper frames. I would guess these are like the ones Dan was dealing with. These won't move at all. Will soak and see what happens but I think these are toast. It doesn't really sound like the Volvo set up is that much of an improvement so I guess I will stick with the original stuff.I will measure the rotor thickness and see if it is in spec and if so have them turned.Thanks for the input it is greatly appreciated.
Brad

You can have your cylinders resleeved so you can reuse most all the same parts.
When I did the Volvo conversion on the '69, I stayed with the solid rotor. I cross drilled the Volvo Calipers so eliminated the manifold the conversion talks about or the external lines of the stock setup which cleaned up the appearance and reduced potential leak points.
You're right about the advantage of one over the othe. In actual use, I've not noticed any definite advantage.
I think the only practical way to gain advantage is a bigger rotor which means larger wheels but permits a larger friction area.
Shifty and Mike worked out a slick way to use a vented Altima rotor with the Volvo setup but, again, I don't think there's a mechanical advantage although I'd bet that if I was chasing him, my brakes would fade first.
Still, Will tracks a pretty fast 2000 and seems to have no trouble with his stock brake setup.
Just make sure everything is up to spec and working smoothly and you should be fine.
Dan

Pads make the biggest difference.
True high friction pads are easier to get for the Volvo Caliper, but some Jag pads fit the roadster caliper.
Rotor mass and pad area have more to do with fad than one time braking power.

Once the pads are bedded, if the braking bite is not to your liking, get different pads.

Well I have decided to go with the Volvo calipers. On the Tech Wiki listing it sounds like Breck Meyer isn't making his adapters anymore is this correct?
Thanks Brad

I think I will just do the cross drill method and forget the rest. Sorry to beat the dead horse on thee volvo brakes again. Thanks again for the input

Brad

bradleygt wrote: ↑Wed Feb 20, 2019 2:24 pm I think I will just do the cross drill method and forget the rest. Sorry to beat the dead horse on thee volvo brakes again. Thanks again for the input

Brad

Never hesitate to ask questions, that's what we're here for!

It's been a while since I did it but I had Pegasus make the braided lines. Seems like the Volvo inlets are 10 mm so I had Pegasus make a line, the smae length as in the Wiki but used the recommended fitting to go to the Datsun line and a metric fitting to go to the Volvo Caliper.
Cross drilled them, cleaned them well. Put a plug in one side side of the Volvo caliper and that's pretty much it.
Works good, solid pedal and very progressive.
Dan