Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Just to summarize the adventures I have been having.

First. Battery strap broke, shorting out the engine compartment. New harness needed, alternator and regulator.

Second: I fitted the battery back to front, so when I tested, I blew the cockpit hardness and Ammeter.

So, I have a two new harnesses, new ammeter etc. I was super careful to label everything as I took it apart and put it together the same way.

Now, before the car is blown up a third time... what a reasonable testing plan so that I can verify

a) I have not crossed a connection causing another burn out
b) I will not blow the ammeter when its in the circuit
c) Any of the other components have not been fried (various voltage regulators, resistors etc.)

Any wisdom greatly accepted, including don't make those mistakes again!

Thanks

-Alvin

Connect a headlamp globe or some other high wattage globe in series with the battery negative post and the battery cable. Any shorts will illuminate the globe but not cause dangerous current to flow. The test lamp won't allow you to crank the engine but if a high enough wattage it will allow you to test your switches and harness OK.
If you followed your labeling and referred to the schematic for any queries then shorts may not be an issue but opens might be if connectors and pushed home completely.
I used carbon grease on all of my contacts to assist in making good contact. It is conductive so don't spread it all over, just a smear on the metal contacts is sufficient.





"Lubricates and improves electrical and thermal connections between sliding surfaces, while providing protection from moisture & corrosion."

You could test it in segments. I powered my dash up with a lawn and garden tractor battery to test just the lights, including the map light. Doing segments you don't have to be trying to watch everything at once and worrying about doing a lot of damage at once.

Might add a 30 amp fuse inline before the Amp gauge now. Many have sacrificed a amp gauge as a fuse!

Will these help? Ignore most of the wire gauge call outs, I need to fix them.

http://www.kendo-usa.org/datsun/datsun_ ... _66_67.pdf

http://www.kendo-usa.org/datsun/datsun_ ... _66_67.pdf

@curtis

Yup - found those on the Tech Wiki and checking off. I also found your Fuse Block diagram for 1966-67... the only difference I have is there i no Yellow gauge wire from the harness into the fuse box as indicated. I need to check the other diagrams for this wire... but I certainly don't have one!

-Alvin

nismou20 wrote: ↑Sun Feb 17, 2019 8:34 pm Might add a 30 amp fuse inline before the Amp gauge now. Many have sacrificed a amp gauge as a fuse!

Add me to that list

jonny8 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 18, 2019 7:48 pm @curtis

Yup - found those on the Tech Wiki and checking off. I also found your Fuse Block diagram for 1966-67... the only difference I have is there i no Yellow gauge wire from the harness into the fuse box as indicated. I need to check the other diagrams for this wire... but I certainly don't have one!

-Alvin

The yellow wire is spliced on in the dash harness. You're welcome to take all the tape off your nice new harness if you want to see it.

I updated the fuse block drawing.

http://www.kendo-usa.org/datsun/66_67_d ... rcuits.pdf

Curtis wrote: ↑Mon Feb 18, 2019 8:19 pm

jonny8 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 18, 2019 7:48 pm @curtis

Yup - found those on the Tech Wiki and checking off. I also found your Fuse Block diagram for 1966-67... the only difference I have is there i no Yellow gauge wire from the harness into the fuse box as indicated. I need to check the other diagrams for this wire... but I certainly don't have one!

-Alvin

The yellow wire is spliced on in the dash harness. You're welcome to take all the tape off your nice new harness if you want to see it.

I liked your updated diagram much better than removing tape!

+ 1 on adding amp fuse. They are pretty cheap and definitely a lot easier to replace than any other part. Sorry that happened to you ughh... oh and do you have a voltage regulator/tester? That might help in the future too for electrical testing.

Nissanman, Does carbon grease reduce carbon tracking in a distributor? I am going to try to find some for connections like you recommended.
Linda

No, carbon grease is a conductive lubricant, not suited to that purpose.
I used it to make sure all my 50+ Y.O. connectors did indeed connect

If the distributor cap is tracking internally I would try a wax and grease remover or renew the cap.