Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Last weekend I bought 29678, a 70 late production run car with a period correct engine. I will be needing help as it has been 45 years since working on one. I had a 69 1600 in 1976 and sold it to buy an Austin Healy 3000. The Austin I never missed, but have always regretted selling my Datsun. PO claims restoration, but no documentation. Body in great condition, motor and tranny strong. Electric fuel pump, EI distributor, some issues, but the car should be a runner soon after I complete a thorough check up. Pics to be posted soon.
Some questions first if I may. If I missed the answers in posts, please bear with me. Am trying to read all I can.
1. Is Clymer the only shop manual published? I looked at the service manuals online. Are they the same?
2. What is the original seat position when bolted to the floor? Specifically, how much room between bottom rear of the seat and the front of the step going up to the rear deck? Reason I'm asking is the PO was vertically challenged and I think he had them mounted too far forward.
3. I like KN oil filters but I get the feeling the forum members don't like them because of the fill valve?
4. If the motor has never been rebuilt, would it not need hardened valve guides to burn modern gas? Additives okay for now?
5. Finally, how do I identify which type carbs I have. I'm pretty sure I have the HJB-38-W's, but want to be certain.

Have lots to do before I consider the car driveable with parts to buy. Most urgent thing is the brakes being checked and fluids changed.

Things I know I want or need:
Bakelite shift knob
Tank braces
master cylinder brace
throttle return springs
choke knob
carb flow tool

Cheers!!!

augsburger wrote: Thu Oct 11, 2018 6:31 pm Things I know I want or need:
Bakelite shift knob
Tank braces
master cylinder brace
throttle return springs
choke knob
carb flow tool

Cheers!!!

Im sure Mike Young has everything you need

Glad you found something that fits what you were looking for

except the motor you built....

Welcome,
Suggestion

Update your avatar with car type, serial number and your location.
Especially if you are looking for stuff. Really helps.

Welcome and congrats on your purchase! Sounds like you found a solid platform to start from. In the "tech Wiki" there is a vendor section as well as a lot of very useful info.

thanks

Congrats on your purchase, you've come to the right place for Datsun Roadster wisdom and opinion. You'll find most questions have been answered before (some many times) so using the search feature at the top right will usually answer most questions.
To answer your initial quesitons-
1. You will occasionally find a factory manual or the definitive tome The Datsun Roadster Book in two or three volumes available on ebay or from members here.
2. If you get under the car and look at the floor board where the seat mounts, you'll find at least two sets of mounting holes. 1 set farther back than the other. You'll also find that a smaller steering wheel and adding more backward tilt to the seat back will give more arm room.
3. Have not used K & N il filters so cannot comment on their use.
4. Someone more expert than I can better answer the question about seats. My understanding is that the high windshield cars came with hardened seats installed.
5. As far as I know, there are no simple bolt on options for 1600 carbs other than the factory carbs so most likely that's what you have. If you post a picture of the carbs as mounted on the manifold, I'm sure someone can tell you for sure.
Dan





congrats on your pur

we need pics, I think many of us use flickr now, myself included

thanks all. will post pics as soon as it stops raining.

Carb flow tool. I think you are looking for one of these. Try aircooled VW parts stores, as they have something similar (although they are set-up for downdraft, so it needs to have a built in swivel to use on side draft carbs)

Got the car on stands and checked the brakes and underside thoroughly with no issues. I don't like the fact that the electric fuel pump does not have a kill switch. Added to list. Seats were mounted on top of carpeting which was jamming the runners. Fixed. A lot of power wrenching that I feel today. Glad those two jobs are finished.

augsburger wrote: Mon Oct 15, 2018 11:21 am Got the car on stands and checked the brakes and underside thoroughly with no issues. I don't like the fact that the electric fuel pump does not have a kill switch. Added to list. Seats were mounted on top of carpeting which was jamming the runners. Fixed. A lot of power wrenching that I feel today. Glad those two jobs are finished.

Does the fuel pump have its own switch, or is it hooked up to the ignition power?

If you got the seats off without breaking the stud bolts on the seat rails you are off to a good start!

If you are trying to decide if you are getting fuel just take off the discharge from the fuel pump (point it into a jar) and crank the starter for a few seconds. If fuel comes out they you have an air or ignition problem or a carb problem.

Or you can spray a tiny bit of ether (aka starting fluid) into the carbs while cranking and if it fires off then you have not been getting fuel. One of those should work.

HTH
James

Simon...as soon as I turn the key the pump charges the fuel line. Hooked to ignition.

re James. It starts like the manual says it should. Choke on. No throttle. Starts and idles. Settings are messed though. Still need to check valves, time, then see if I can get the carbs right. Needs new return springs.

Sorry I got this one confused with the other thread on car not starting.