Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

hey alvin, what issue of scc were you in?

My buddy just gave me that exact same magazine earlier today. The car on page 112 is one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen. Not just the motor swap, but the car itself is just amazing. I've been looking for inspiration to really dig into my project, and I found out on page 112. Thanks alot Alvin.

Roadster 67

Alvin,
I must say that this guy who wrote into SCC isn't the only one you've inspired. I've been thinking about my next project and had been toying with the idea of building a 944 turbo or 911 turbo for street and PCA racing, but after reading your article, I'm definitely planning on building a SR20DET-powered 2000 (my apologies to the purists on this board). I've always loved Japanese sports cars, which comes from my upbringing (Toyota family) and from my first sports car experience - which was driving a brand new '93 TT RX7 when I was 15 years old. The idea of building a German car never really felt right and I can't wait to get started on building a 2000. Of course, I'm temporarily held back by the minor challenge of finding the right car to start with (and the fact that I have two "in progress" projects already underway), but your article inspired me none the less.

If anyone has a good car to start this project on, definitely PM me. My goal is a classic and classy roadster with an updated powerplant capable of HP in the 300s on 93 octane and a suspension that will accomodate that power under cornering. The general idea goes:
2000 roadster - '67 prefered for the low windshield, but all years are under consideration due to the rarity of the 67
black on black - possibly silver racing stripes w/ a professional restore of exterior/interior
Flared fenders to accomodate wider tires - possibly nittos on panasports
SR20DET using the SR wiring harness and a tune by Charles (here in Tampa)
2.5" SS exhaust to a stock/standard muffler with an electric cutout
upgraded brakes (probably from the Z32)
upgraded PP w/ carbon clutch
upgraded/modernized suspension w/ KYB AGX's all around

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i'm new to my search - so this is great feedback...

Yeah, I had the same thought. Go for a low-windshield 1600 or a car that is missing its engine and transmission--they are definitely out there and you could save some money by not starting from a running car.
Just get the best (straightest) body you can find and get a car that is as complete (excluding engine and tranny of course) as possible--those little missing parts can be expensive.

Thanks Alvin.

I don't have a roadster yet, but I'm actively looking and talking w/ a few sellers. After getting some feedback on this forum, it seems like a 67.5 1600 wouldn't be a bad route, but I have some more investigation to do in order to be sure.

I'm sure that in order to get 300 hp I'd need to do the typical upgrades...turbo, fmic, injectors, ecu tune, exhaust, etc...and it will boil down to how much will fit in the engine bay. Tripling the HP will also have impacts to the chassis as well, so I'm sure I'd have to beef it up. I'm not looking for the biggest, laggiest turbo i can squeeze in there, but rather I'd like 300 hp and a nice power delivery curve. I think 300 hp in a roadster that can handle would be an absolute blast to drive.

As for goals for the car...I'd like it to be street driven if not street legal, but a beast. Capable of reliably driving back and forth to work (read - no built motor), 11s/12s at the drag strip (read - LSD and meaty tires), and a fine tuned suspension that would allow for some occasional track/autox days when I get that desire. Certainly this car won't have a wide resale market with the customizations I would put into it, but I would never intend on selling it either.

Actually, you're only doubling the HP (compared to Mikuni U20) . Either way it's only the weak parts that break.

Sid had an post in For Sale for a frame with rear suspension in Jacksonville area, Would be a great start. Someone correct me if I am wrong, but the frames are all interchangable, 66-70?

Dave,

Yes, the frames can interchange all the way from 62 - 70. There are detail differences (types of front brakes, types of steering, reinforcements, crush zones, and torque struts to name a few) but almost all of them can be swirled around.

BTW, the frame is still available!

I do have some interest in Sid's chassis, but I was looking at a '65 spl310 that allegedly has been garaged for the last 25 years. The car certainly looks that way from the pics I've seen. I haven't found a good reference page yet as to the major differences between a '65 spl310 and a '67.5 spl311. That is to say that I've read this (http://www.datsunroadster.com/INFO_PAGES/what_year.htm) but it mainly talks about cosmetic differences such as the color of the gauge bevels, where I'm really interested in knowing what motors/frames/trannies/etc are different between each of these years. If someone knows of such a reference, can you point me in the right direction? Also, are there any reasons why I wouldn't want a '65 spl310 given my goals above?

Im not sure but from what i know 310s had drum brakes all around. I dont know if 65s had drums but previous did and a 1500 engine. 65-67 had flat dash with 7 guages and a 1600. and came with disc brakes in the front. 67.5 had the torque bar on the differential attatched to the frame., and black flat dash with 5 guages. IMO I would say do a swap in a 66-67 car but if you insist a 67.5 sure its your choice.

Well, here is my opinion on the subject. If you are going to add horsepower to the car, you should get the safest one you can. That rules out the low windshield cars. The high windshield cars (68 - 70) have the collapsible steering column and the frame is reinforced to work with that feature. The SPL310s have drum brakes as Joaquin pointed out, so I would pass on them. Add to that that the 1500 parts are tougher to find, and that they were positive ground, and it makes them less attractive for swap cars.

Now, if you REALLY want a low windshield car, I would go with the 65 - 67 1600 as they are more attractive. (keep in mind that I have a 67.5 2000 and have owned several 67.5 1600s - the chrome dash is BEAUTIFUL!!).

There is still another option. You can get the chassis from a high windshield car (gets you the torque strut and the reinforcements), and the body from an earlier car. Or you can just swap the dash from an earlier car into a high windshield car (probably the easiest option to get the nice dash)

The strut bar is a great point. I imagine the brakes will be the first thing I replace no matter what year roadster I get.

This is the reason why I'm tempted to go w/ a '65. Maybe I'm just green here, but this thing seems to be in above average condition...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... AMEWA%3AIT

Thats a very nice roadster. One of those is just not worth swapping into because of its originiality and obviously because it runs!.

shoot! I offended the purists! Given that car, I would not work on immediate swap because it is so clean...but eventually the need for more power would eventually get to me