Normal for clutch to be soft?
Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2018 6:16 pm
Right upon startup and for 5 or 10 min its a bit soft before it eventually stuffens up. Is this normal?
10 minutes sounds worrisome, but most doctors would say “yes.â€
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Normal for clutch to be soft?
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Re: Normal for clutch to be soft?
Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2018 6:51 pm
Re: Normal for clutch to be soft?
Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2018 7:38 pm
I might be exagerrating on 10min but it is normal to start soft then get more stiff?? Lol i think i get your joke
Re: Normal for clutch to be soft?
Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2018 7:39 pm
I was told the clutch slave cylinder was replaced does that sound right? Is there fluid there might be bubbles in like bleeding brakes?
Re: Normal for clutch to be soft?
Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2018 8:20 pm
Seriously... Not normal. I would bleed the system as the first step, It is a very simple/limited system. Are you losing fluid? Might want to check underneath the dash to see if the master cylinder is leaking down the inside of the firewall. You can bleed it in less than 3 minutes if you’re getting along with your significant other. 
Re: Normal for clutch to be soft?
Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2018 12:06 am
Might need a new slave cylinder....if leaking or rusted......AutoZone
Check Tech Wiki for the part no in Parts Interchange
Linda
Baker must have been watching the SCOTUS hearing
Check Tech Wiki for the part no in Parts Interchange
Linda
Baker must have been watching the SCOTUS hearing
Re: Normal for clutch to be soft?
Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2018 5:38 am
If it gets "hard" after a few uses it is simply has some air left in it and just needs to be bled.
Re: Normal for clutch to be soft?
Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2018 7:01 am
Re: Normal for clutch to be soft?
Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2018 1:19 pm
im guessing bleeding the slave cylinder is in the wiki?
he "said" it was a new slave so hopefully he didnt lie or it was like 5 years ago and it had been sitting
he "said" it was a new slave so hopefully he didnt lie or it was like 5 years ago and it had been sitting
Re: Normal for clutch to be soft?
Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2018 2:13 pm
It’s just like bleeding the brakes. There is a port on the slave cylinder. Have a friend pump the clutch (and to keep the reservoir topped-off), open the bleed port (into some clear tubing terminating onto a container). Easy-peasy. Seriously, 3 minutes job.
Re: Normal for clutch to be soft?
Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2018 2:41 pm
im new to owership, are there any diagrams around that show where the port exactly is on the side of the trannie?
thanks
thanks
Re: Normal for clutch to be soft?
Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2018 4:19 pm
1) check out carpartsmanual.com.
2) the bleeder on the slave cylinder is OBVIOUS when you look at it.
2) the bleeder on the slave cylinder is OBVIOUS when you look at it.
Re: Normal for clutch to be soft?
Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2018 5:03 pm
It may not be so obvious if you have to ask where to look....
So, raise the car up on jackstands so it's safe and you can get under it.
Crawl under the car on the passenger side behind the front wheel.
In the center of the car, you'll find the engine with the transmission bolted to it. Driveline comes out the back of the transmission.
Now, look up at the bell shaped metal part where the engine and transmission meet. You'll see a cylinder about 6" long with a hose connected to it.
The metal cylinder shaped part is the slave and the hose leads to the clutch master. You'll notice a rod coming from the front of the cylinder running up to an arm that stick out of the bell shaped housing(bellhousing). That's the throwout arm.
Ok back to the slave cylinder....you will see a small nipple shaped fitting sticking out of the slave cylinder, that's your bleed.
The idea is to pressurize the system by pumping on the pedal (make sure the fluid is at the full mark in the master reservoir) and keep pressure on by holding the pedal down. Under the car, connect a clear tube to the nipple and run it into a clean source of brake fluid with the open end of the tube running into the clean fluid. With a fitting wrench, open the bleed. Fluid (and maybe some bubbles) will run down the hose into the container.
The pedal in the car will drop. Once it's at the floor, the person in the car says "down" or some signal to tell the person on the slave to tighten the bleed. Once the bleed is tightened, the pedal person pumps the pedal again and you repeat the whole process. Don't let the fluid in the master reservoir run low or you'll have to start again. Likely 3 or 4 cycles will be enough to give a nice firm brake pedal.
Whew, sounds complicated but it's pretty easy.
I have a power bleeder so it only takes one person (the power bleeder takes the place of the pedal person) and many like speed bleeders as they take the place of the bleed valve person (sort of).
Dan
So, raise the car up on jackstands so it's safe and you can get under it.
Crawl under the car on the passenger side behind the front wheel.
In the center of the car, you'll find the engine with the transmission bolted to it. Driveline comes out the back of the transmission.
Now, look up at the bell shaped metal part where the engine and transmission meet. You'll see a cylinder about 6" long with a hose connected to it.
The metal cylinder shaped part is the slave and the hose leads to the clutch master. You'll notice a rod coming from the front of the cylinder running up to an arm that stick out of the bell shaped housing(bellhousing). That's the throwout arm.
Ok back to the slave cylinder....you will see a small nipple shaped fitting sticking out of the slave cylinder, that's your bleed.
The idea is to pressurize the system by pumping on the pedal (make sure the fluid is at the full mark in the master reservoir) and keep pressure on by holding the pedal down. Under the car, connect a clear tube to the nipple and run it into a clean source of brake fluid with the open end of the tube running into the clean fluid. With a fitting wrench, open the bleed. Fluid (and maybe some bubbles) will run down the hose into the container.
The pedal in the car will drop. Once it's at the floor, the person in the car says "down" or some signal to tell the person on the slave to tighten the bleed. Once the bleed is tightened, the pedal person pumps the pedal again and you repeat the whole process. Don't let the fluid in the master reservoir run low or you'll have to start again. Likely 3 or 4 cycles will be enough to give a nice firm brake pedal.
Whew, sounds complicated but it's pretty easy.
I have a power bleeder so it only takes one person (the power bleeder takes the place of the pedal person) and many like speed bleeders as they take the place of the bleed valve person (sort of).
Dan
Re: Normal for clutch to be soft?
Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2018 6:32 pm
And get a speed bleeder, though clutch can be bled, just by gravity, unlike brakex!
Re: Normal for clutch to be soft?
Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2018 10:23 am
Much appreciated greydog, most of my auto work has been on my 85 mustang (engine rebuild) and regular maintenance on my 05 mazda. Did an engine rebuild on my 67 mustang in high school but that was many many years ago
greydog wrote: ↑Fri Sep 28, 2018 5:03 pm It may not be so obvious if you have to ask where to look....
So, raise the car up on jackstands so it's safe and you can get under it.
Crawl under the car on the passenger side behind the front wheel.
In the center of the car, you'll find the engine with the transmission bolted to it. Driveline comes out the back of the transmission.
Now, look up at the bell shaped metal part where the engine and transmission meet. You'll see a cylinder about 6" long with a hose connected to it.
The metal cylinder shaped part is the slave and the hose leads to the clutch master. You'll notice a rod coming from the front of the cylinder running up to an arm that stick out of the bell shaped housing(bellhousing). That's the throwout arm.
Ok back to the slave cylinder....you will see a small nipple shaped fitting sticking out of the slave cylinder, that's your bleed.
The idea is to pressurize the system by pumping on the pedal (make sure the fluid is at the full mark in the master reservoir) and keep pressure on by holding the pedal down. Under the car, connect a clear tube to the nipple and run it into a clean source of brake fluid with the open end of the tube running into the clean fluid. With a fitting wrench, open the bleed. Fluid (and maybe some bubbles) will run down the hose into the container.
The pedal in the car will drop. Once it's at the floor, the person in the car says "down" or some signal to tell the person on the slave to tighten the bleed. Once the bleed is tightened, the pedal person pumps the pedal again and you repeat the whole process. Don't let the fluid in the master reservoir run low or you'll have to start again. Likely 3 or 4 cycles will be enough to give a nice firm brake pedal.
Whew, sounds complicated but it's pretty easy.
I have a power bleeder so it only takes one person (the power bleeder takes the place of the pedal person) and many like speed bleeders as they take the place of the bleed valve person (sort of).
Dan