Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Working on the front brakes do I need to separate the rotor/hub to have it machined or leave it as 1 piece?

The pads come right out the top of the caliper after removing the keeper correct?

What else should I do while I have it apart?

Leave it in one piece

Or take it apart and inspect the insides for corrosion.

If you have been bleeding your brakes every 2-3 years to remove any water build-up in the cylinders you should be good. If not you should as Spyder says remove the cylinders, open them up and inspect/clean/replace as needed.

CAUTION!!!

If you are removing the pistons using compressed air, make sure you aim the piston at a towel or something to chusion its landing.

AND

remove the rubber 'shrouding' around the brake lines - suspect rust area!

Clean your bearings and races. Inspect for scoring/wear. Replace or repack. New seal.
Grease all the zerks in the a arms, tie rods and balljoints.

David..I think you just came up with a Roadster Haiku

Haikus are 3-5-3 = 11 = not 12 - lol

Got it all apart, bearings are shot so I ordered new bearings and seals for it.

Regarding the calipers, if I take them apart, a new kit is going to be required, right.... However, Deans site say's they don't recommend rebuilding the calipers. Is that just a disclosure, or is there something about these calipers that it really isn't recommended.

Yup, you should rebuild, and I and many others have done so!

Will do, Thanks for the info

If the cylinders are too pitted then just the seal kit might not work.
You can choose to hone, buy new or resleeve in stainless. See Vendor page for Karp's resleeve services.
Also lots of links in the archives via Search that describe the process.
Linda

I'm thinking of the expense I'll have for a complete rebuild of these brakes and starting to consider the Volvo conversion I think I can do for less or about the same $$$.

So, are the Volvo brakes that good, I'm thinking 4 pistons and larger brake pad surface has to be better, but I've been reading some older post on the subject and some threads say that the stock brakes are very good and some say that the race cars use the stock brakes as well. This will just be a street car not a race car

So far, I have one caliper apart, managed to booger up both brake lines, don't know if I can make the bends myself or if I'll have to get new lines, but I'm sure I'll duplicate the damage on the other caliper when I take it apart.

I have one piston free and loose but won't come out, do I just need some compressed air or is there some kind of clip or something holding it in.

Despite reading that OEM brakes are actually adequate, I used to think of them as marginal. All these years I thought that if they weren't leaking that they were good. Well, recently they did start to leak after 20 some years. Upon disassembling them I found them to be gunked up with rust, moisture and binding. I had just the one side resleeved for the moment and bled them. The car stops so much better. I can only imagine what it will be like with the other side done. It's changed my perception of these OEM brakes completely. I did bleed the brakes in the past with fresh fluid but I think it was just flowing past the jelled rust. Unless you go with resleeved stainless calipers it's probably a good idea to take them apart and clean them every so many years.

I did the Volvo non-vented conversion. They perform close to the OEM.