E brake

[Linda]

When you get to it, just come back to this thread and provide feedback so people know what the problem was, and what fixed it.
Linda

[Lorna c]

When you get to it, just come back to this thread and provide feedback so people know what the problem was, and what fixed it.
Linda

I will ..

[Lorna c]

ok now if , I apply breaks with foot pedal and they stop the wheel (rear tires) is this telling me that the e break should work too if it we're adjusted properly ? or are they separate all together ?

[Lorna c]

see that ? only one question !! and clear (?) too I hope

[Lorna c]

You might just check to see if the rear brakes are really working at all, even when you press the brake peddle (mine weren't). It may be that you just need to adjust the brake shoe adjustment knob at the top back of the wheel.
Basically put the car up on stands. gently spin the wheel and tighten the adjustment bolt (turn in like a regular screw) until it just slows (engages the brake) then back it off one or two clicks until the wheel is free. Do both sides, then check the peddle and hand brake. Should be better.
good luck
Rustbucket

if the breaks "work " there's no need to adjust the shoe for the e-break correct ? ?

[theunz]

Yes, the emergency brake adjustment is done on the cable that runs from the emergency brake lever to the rear wheels. Make sure the cable is actually moving the levers where they attach to the brake backing plates. There is a grease zerk on the passenger side by the rear axle that could be dry, causing the cable to bind.

[Lorna c]

Yes, the emergency brake adjustment is done on the cable that runs from the emergency brake lever to the rear wheels. Make sure the cable is actually moving the levers where they attach to the brake backing plates. There is a grease zerk on the passenger side by the rear axle that could be dry, causing the cable to bind.

oh ok .. I've noticed they move but not all the way .. I'll check that zerk tomorrow .. been doing distributor today and clutch today ..

[Linda]

Maybe clean all the moving points with cleaner first , then lube them so you can see what is going on down there. Might be a frayed cable, as an example that you can't see due to oil, dirt, rust etc. Then lube the zerk.
Linda

[Lorna c]

ok good attack plan .thx

[Lorna c]

ok all cleaned up and I've noticed this .
when the e break is pulled , it'll move all parts it's supposed to . I believe . the driver's side lever seems to move more than the passenger side one .
1) this tells me what ?
today I will jack up both sides and check both back breaks at once to see if the driver's side tire slows at all with it pulled . but definitely passenger side doesn't . I've tighten them up to where it's pulling the break at the wheel lever , before e brake is pulled , then I pulled the e break and still didn't engage it at the tire . not slowing tire at all still .
I loosened it back up to where it was not pulling on it and that's where it sits now.. not sure what else to do besides Bleed It Again if the e-brake is involved with bleeding I don't know.... oh and Jack the back end up instead of one half of the car up and see if the driver's side is slowing the tire at all with the E-brake on.. not sure what that will tell me but it's something to do till I hear back from y'all..

[Lorna c]

waiting for slave cylinder so moved to e-brake ..
idk why my fingers keep typing break (except I need a break ) haha but sorry if any fell through spell check ..

[Lorna c]

ok so back end is up and nothing catches on both sides . so plan of attack is (until I hear another idea to try) is
fill that zerk fitting where the two back breaks rotate on the bar .
bleed lines again both sides .
adjust rod so just before it pulls the levers on breaks on tires .
stop and check again to see if it's catching yet .
report back here with findings .. cross fingers and pray .

**my slave won't be here for at least two days . ergh . not even shipped yet . ergh .
so looks like e break time for sure .. rumbles still down . it's a sad sad day for rumble again .

[bmccarthy67]

Lorna, you have a thread going for clutch/slave and the emergency brake (important systems), since your brakes are a safety system you may want to jump on the Wiki or the internet and do a search or two on these systems to understand how they work. Your emergency brake is a manual system designed to stop the vehicle should you have hydraulic failure. It is simply cables and levers designed to force your rear brake shoe against the drum. A couple people have asked if your brakes were already adjusted, now you are mentioning bleeding your lines again...why if they are adjusted? The Wiki has a great write up on adjusting your rear brakes (if they are adjusted to that standard) the e-brake will work if all of the parts are moving as you stated. The small part you are talking about greasing transfers the rear to front pull into a side to side pull. If your really worried, pull the pins on the fixed rods, unbolt this pivot and completely clean and lube. Again, just want to see you safe...



v/r
Buddy

[Lorna c]

.
1) it's all clean now
2) closed tight
3) adjusted properly
4) bled them and found some air
5) ** I had a helper to push the peddal as I got under it and adjust it better . the phone recording works on one spot at a time . but to see the workings of it really helped to be under while being pushed .to see what's up .. plus it goes way faster .
it wasn't adjusted enough also . at the end of the lever on the break moving , that picture you posted above , has a final torque that I didn't have it pulled back that far on the adjustment nut . I stopped when they started to move and backed off . (for some reason ) thought it would ride them or something IDK . anyway it's all good now ..
** working ** whoOhOo . first time ever ..
I'm coming back to do what Linda said , report back to say what I did and what worked , or something like that ..and they work !! thanks for the checklist ..

[bossbob]

Good job Lorna.......