Brake Hardlines

[DatsunBucky]

So, has anyone actually purchased the brake hardlines from Classic Tube? If so, did they fit?

I've reached the point where I need to make some decisions about the brakes, and after having spent the better part of a whole day trying to get the line that goes from the splitter to the left front wheel straightened out and back into place, I think new, prebent lines are the way to go. Classic's website shows SS for $225 and OEM for $195. To me the extra thirty bucks is worth it.

I've already had the three flex lines made locally for just under $80 (total), and I got them back in about 1/2 hour. I took one of the old ones in and they used that for a pattern.

Anyway, any input, good or bad, would be helpful. I don't feel comfortable making these lines myself.

Thanks.

[JoeK]

If you do go for it, let us know. I's probably buy a set myself if I knew they would fit.

When they say full set, do you know how complete they are? Lines back to rears, caliper bridge sets? I just bought the caliper bridge set and I think it was over $100.

[Vince V]

I purchased from Classic Tube about 5 years ago. I would venture a quess that they used my lines for their template , since I had to send them all my lines.I had them do all the brake lines including the gas lines. All the lines fit perfectly with no problems.

[Vince V]

Attached is picture of the engine bay with the Classic Tube lines.
http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welc ... mjlu1ZuXVw

[FergO2k]

you know, when it comes time to do this, I am planning to toss out the junction box on the passenger side, and just T the front lines near the master cyl. (so get one long line that goes from pass side front to the T, and a short line that goes from drivers front to the T) Gordon Glasgow did this and it cleans up the engine bay quite nicely.
Since the junction box does not do any "brake biasing", and who really uses the S-brake switch, I don't see the point of keeping it. I am not of the 'bonestock' school, so some may find this sacreligious, its just my opinion.
Fergus

[dbrick]

There is no proportioning valve in the brake junction?? I had a kit car without a porportioning valve, back drum brakes locked solid on any more than 50% braking. I would guess Roadster would be the same?

Added Wilwood adjustable valve and a 5 pound residual pressure valve, was perfect.

[TR]

Yep, no biasing...It just triggers the indicator if either the front or rear fail or lose oil.

I ran mine with the T, there is a pic in the engine section.

On the 510, I relocated the fail switch to the passenger side to keep lines and the junction away from the turbo.

[DatsunBucky]

If that's the brake line set that Classic sells, I'm going to have to go to some sort of Plan B. Because it's a 67.5, I don't have that manifold on the passenger side, all I've got is the T, and also the lines follow the contour of the firewall rather than bridging the gap like Vince's picture.

[TR]

You can practice with a flaring tool until you are comfortable making them or maybe even make all of the lines and mark the lengths then take them to a local shop for flaring...

[toolsnob]

I have bought a Classic tube set in the past. They based the kit off the 69 roadster, so if you have a different junction box or an early car you would have to modify it to fit. Personally you can do the same job with $100 and some time by just buying a flaring tool and some line.

The Tube set did come with the cross over lines for the calipers.