Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Lorna c wrote: ↑Tue Oct 23, 2018 12:47 pm anyone ever use this oil ? VR1 WITH HIGH ZINK ?

That is almost the exact one I use (except mine has a black label with a checkered racing flag)... that aside I LOVE this oil. I noticed a huge improvement when I did my 1st oil change after purchasing my 1600.

my $.02

really . I'm tired of getting zink by itself and hoping I have the mix right . so I hope "rumble" likes this too ... thx

bossbob wrote: ↑Mon Oct 22, 2018 3:14 pm I guess there's no way to know if the radiator is clogged unless I remove the tank, right!

Did a little researching today, looks like I can buy a new aluminum 3 row radiator on ebay for about $130 or so or for $155 I can get the 2000 radiator with the fill neck on the radiator itself.

Called my local radiator shop for a quote of around $110 or so for repair.

So, it looks like a no brainer to go ahead and get the new one.

Anyone have any experience with the ebay radiators?

As Linda stated get the Champion one. I actually worked with them to get these made for the 1600's. I put the prototype in my blue 67. They are very well made. I have one in my 67 1600 race car as well and it performs great.

zippy67roadster wrote: ↑Tue Oct 23, 2018 10:09 pm

bossbob wrote: ↑Mon Oct 22, 2018 3:14 pm I guess there's no way to know if the radiator is clogged unless I remove the tank, right!

Did a little researching today, looks like I can buy a new aluminum 3 row radiator on ebay for about $130 or so or for $155 I can get the 2000 radiator with the fill neck on the radiator itself.

Called my local radiator shop for a quote of around $110 or so for repair.

So, it looks like a no brainer to go ahead and get the new one.

Anyone have any experience with the ebay radiators?

As Linda stated get the Champion one. I actually worked with them to get these made for the 1600's. I put the prototype in my blue 67. They are very well made. I have one in my 67 1600 race car as well and it performs great.

Does the Champion require modifications to install?

I recall that the champion radiator will only 'drop in' for earlier cars - through #20000 (?)

I have put 3 in and all required mods to clear steering box, to line up with radiator supports, and shroud - 68 and later

does viniger work with unclogging radiaters ? what clogs them ? rust & corrosion? wouldn't soaking in viniger clear that right up? workes on my plumbing .

Vinegar dissolves rust and carbonate buildup.

Caveat on the vinegar though - I put some jigsaw blades in vinegar to derust - and forgot for a few days - they were paper thin.

Radiator fins are rather delicate - I would not take the chance of the vinegar dissolving everything.

IMHO, certain things, i.e. those that I know I can't fix, I leave to the professionals.

Radiators are the last thing you want springing a leak at an inopportune time (then when is an opportune one)

M2C

well heck . when I first got the car in pieces , I soaked mine with vinegar and distilled water over night and hoping it did better than not maybe .. all I know was it worked , but overflow container needed soldering after new/ used popped the same seam.. anyway it won't hurt it will it ? as long as diluted of course .. and not for a few days ..haha

The engine just doesn't feel like it's got all of it's punch. It idles great and revs up fine in neutral, but going back to my first drive around the block, and under load it only rev's to about 4k and doesn't seem to have the power it should.

Thought I would start with adjusting the carbs a bit, I've read 2 article in the Techwiki, one say's to set the idle to 500 - 650, Keith's article say's to set the idle to 2k to start adjusting. I think I understand the adjusting procedures but a bit confused on the 2 articles.

I bought a new Uni-Syn to adjust the carbs, but not getting the red bubble to move at all, tried adjusting the Uni-Syn in and out but still not enough vacuum to pull the bubble up.

Valve adjustment and timing seems to be in good condition, but not yet verified.

Any suggestions...

Check valve clearances, timing and dwell first. Make sure the distributor timing is advancing properly, and your dwell angle is correct.
Iirc the unison has to seal all 4 holes on the carb. Not much room for error.
Use a tach/dwell meter for rev accuracy. The old cable and gauge may not be accurate.
Ive read the articles many times. Still have it handy every time I play with carbs.

Bos, have you checked your float levels? Good starting point then throttle Balancing. Needles and jet for fine tuning. Your symptom sounds like a lean condition if it revs well when sitting but nothing under load. Idle rpms rising over time could also be lean condition. Cable can be a factor but often cold engines run and burble then when warmed up exhibit lean condition if mixtures lean. I would definitely check the fuel supply level for 23mm first.
I just realized you have a 1600 so 23 mm may not be correct.

You should be able to completely block the carb throat with the unisyn fully closed and make it run on 2 cylinders... something is wrong. It cannot be adjusted fully closed, or else that throat is pulling no vacuum and you have intake leaks or worse. Can't get a reading on either throat? If so, the unisyn must not be adjusted correctly.

When adjusted correctly, you should only be able to put the unisyn to the carb to get a reading for just a brief moment before the rpms drop... seal it against the throat, read and remove very quickly. The "Snail" version of the carb balancing tools available does not require the rapid read and remove action and can stay on the throat for a much longer time.

Please report back your findings.

Thanks for the intel, timing was way off, set at nearly 25* btdc, I set it back to 16* btdc, got the carbs set up pretty good, I think. Took it around the block again and I can definitely feel the difference. I was able to pull it to 5k rpm and it felt more snappy. So, I think it's getting close. Didn't have time to check the valve clearances though.

Also, flushed and burped the radiator several times. Still no difference in temp. However, the water is coming out of the radiator as fast as I am pouring it in, kinda tells me the radiator is flowing good, but who knows. When draining the radiator the 1st bit of water in the radiator is probably shower warm/hot, the last bit of water coming out of the block is hot/hot but I can still hold my hand under it. Looks like I'm getting good water flow looking into the water neck.

Turns out Champion radiators is only 30 minutes down the road, so maybe an early X-mas present. Tried to find top and bottom hoses using the Teckwiki suggestions, Wasn't happy with the Jeep hose, nor the upper cross reference part #'s.

Re-adjusted the rear brakes, E-Brake works great, Brakes feel great, however, the front left locks up before the right front.

Overall, pretty happy with the work I did yesterday. Also, started stripping the body. Trying to get it ready for body work and paint after the holidays. Looking forward to being able to drive it come spring time, hopefully.

Loving the updates Bob! Still driving it around with no door? hahah

I started the roadster the other day, 1st time since I adjusted the timing and carbs, although I didn't let the engine get completely hot, I noticed it was harder to start and is gutless, my drive way has a slight slope and it wouldn't even entertain getting up the driveway without a running start. It would just choke out and die, absolutely no power.

I know the smog stuff has been removed, I started reading about the smog vs non-smog distributors. I haven't verified what I have, but I would assume I have the smog unit.

From one of my earlier post.
"timing was way off, set at nearly 25* btdc, I set it back to 16* btdc"

Let me know what you think.

Thanks