Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Hi all,

For those that may remember me, I started my search for a roadster some time ago, and finally got one. I had a 68 roadster as my first car way back when and drove it during my high school days. The tranny siezed on it and I let it go. A couple years ago I saw one at a car show and got the itch to get another one.

So, I picked up a beaut yesterday, she's rough and it's going to need a lot of work to get her back, but that's just the way I like them.

The new one is a 68 1600 I think it was originally silver but now it's primer grey, it has some surface rust, but with the exception of one front fender it's pretty straight and mostly complete with no rot or cancer. It will need just about everything, paint, interior, don't know about the engine yet, but was told it was rebuilt some years ago and I would say that I have about 90% of all the parts.

The short list so far is to clean it up and see what's really there, see if I can get it running, address the hydraulics, brakes, clutch, etc. Then the body and interior.

For now though I really need to see about KEY'S. What is the best way to get keys made for this car..................

Let me know what you want to know and I'll see what I can do to answer.

I'm in Corona Ca if anyone wants to donate parts, time, and or knowledge.

I'll have a lot of questions coming up, so you've been warned.

Thanks.......................

congratulations
answers we have....may not always be correct, but you can relay on the majority of the information.

Welcome, pictures are most needed!
Post a few so we can watch your progress!

Welcome. An old school locksmith should be able to make a key from the lock # which should be on the front of the ignition or console cylinder. Find the #'s and get original blanks from Rallye(one of the vendors) or the locksmith. We do like pictures. Good luck.

Steve

S Allen wrote: ↑Sun Jun 17, 2018 5:42 pm Welcome. An old school locksmith should be able to make a key from the lock # which should be on the front of the ignition or console cylinder. Find the #'s and get original blanks from Rallye(one of the vendors) or the locksmith. We do like pictures. Good luck.

Steve

Its not really close to you, but its a doable trip if you cant find anyone.... BUT Santa Monica Lock & Key was able to cut me 2 keys using the numbers on my trunk lock. Now I can lock & unlock my doors (but never do) and have a functioning trunk lock as well. I think it was $30 total.

There are 4 digits on the cylinder that they pulled the code from. Any good, "old-school" locksmith should be able to handle it. Dont waste your time with places like Lowes or Home Depot

So how do I add pictures, I would be happy to share my project...........

Nice to see that you found a car. I remember checking one out for you in San Jose last year.

To add pics go into the “Full Editor” and add as attachments.

I went to start try and start the engine today, the good news is that it turns freely. The bad news is that it has no spark.

So, after I put 2-3 quarts of oil in it, I noticed an oil flow out from under the car, yep, no drain plug. Once that was addressed I got back to trying to start it, It turns freely so that's good. but I don't have any spark to the plugs.

The ignition switch came out and all the wires are mixed up, I figured out how to turn the motor with the wires but can't figure out where the wires go on the switch. it's a 5 prong switch and I have all the wires identified but don't know where to put them on the switch itself. So, please help me with that.

I saw the oil pressure gauge move as I was turning the motor over, and the amp gauge move as I turned the motor, so I think that's a good sign.

I think the motor will fire when I figure out the electrical, and hope the rest of the car will be okay after that.

Where can I get some help on identifying the wires to the ignition switch. I have the schematic but it doesn't orient the switch itself.

Thanks again....

I used a key switch to a B210 and it had five pins. By using a volt meter set on ohms you can easily determine which connect at which key position.
My pins were labeled 1-5. 1= accessory, 2= start, 3=hot, 4= distributor, 5= start
So this means pins 2 and 5 connect with the key in start position. Pins 1 and 3 connect in accessory position. Pins 1, 3, and 4 connect in run.
1 and 3 were on side (row of two) and 2, 4, and 5 were on the other (row of three)
Check yours it may be different ...or the same
Rustbucket

First attempt to adding pictures, she rough but mostly all there. This is before I washed the first layer of dust and dirt off of it.


Also have a question regarding the wiring for the ignition switch. I'm trying to match the wires to the back of the ignition switch. Can anyone identify which wires go to which post.

You can start the car very easily from the engine bay. Attach a 12v wire from the battery to the coil. Attach the battery to the starter. Run a 12v wire over from the battery and touch it to the + on the starter solenoid. The motor will turn over and should run if your distributor is hooked up and timed properly.

I have done this before and it works. Bob2 taught me how to do it.

HTH
James

PS obviously make sure you have good gas to the carbs and the oil pump is putting out oil pressure of you will ruin your engine.

thats quite the project you have there

My 67.5 looked about that good when I started on it.


Two years later it looked like this.


Where there is a will there is a way as long as the funds do not run out. Good luck.

Steve

I've got the engine turning over freely, and see that the oil pressure gauge is moving some, have fresh gas from a can.

The problem right now is no spark to the plugs. Seems to be getting power to the coil, and I can get a spark to the points when I ground it with the power is on, but nothing past the points and trying to get the ignition switch wired properly.

The only thing past the points is the distributor cap and rotor. And the plug wires of course.

There's a little wire from the points that's wrapped in black cotton. Make sure it's not broken inside the insulation or disconnected.