Matt's KA24DE Swap

[mattanonymous]

A little background, I'm a 32 year old software engineer residing in MD and have loved Datsuns for as long as I can remember; namely Zs and Roadsters. The Roadster is my first Datsun, but I did own a 240sx back in the day (I miss it so much!) Last year, I was searching CL for 'Datsun', as I'd do every once in a while, and came across a beautiful 1600 with a frame-up restoration, but a seized motor. No worries, I planned on swapping anyway (not knowing how involved it'd be).

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Knowing myself, I've decided to go with one of the more straightforward swaps in hopes that the fun doesn't run out before the project is complete. I recently bought a 'rebuilt' KA24DE and am trying to get the swap done by September for a road trip with some friends who will have their own old vehicles.

The plan:

• Start the engine out of the car to make sure everything is good
• Pray this isn't the step where I have to rebuild the 'rebuilt' motor
• Clean up the engine, remove unnecessary bits
• Install an electric hoist in the garage for easy body removal and reinstallation as I make trial and error changes
• Check the status of all body/frame components since nothing should be assumed
• Transmission and motor mounts fabrication
• Install motor/trans, wiring, plumbing, accelerator pedal
• Get fuel to the engine: clean out old tank, modify for EFI, and run a high pressure line to the engine bay
• All of the stuff I'm forgetting
• Start her up

[greydog]

Looks like a good start Matt.
Completion by September is ambitious but certainly doable. It'll depend on how much time you can/will devote to the project.
Since the swap itself has it's own set of issues (fuel delivery, instrumentation, etc) you're wise to verify that all else is working.
YHour first 4 items don't really involve the car so why not pick up a running 1600 and slap it in the car. That way you can drive it a bit and verify the braking and electrical systems to be in good shape. It's difficult to spot a grabbing brake or loose headlight connection.
Then when you swap the KA in, you'll have fewer issues to deal with. And, of course, you'll have the car to drive for a little while.
Dan

[notoptoy]

Welcome, good luck with the project, keep us up to speed with pictures and progress reports!

[SABLT194]

Matt,

I see you have the title "Engineer" . Typically that means that, as you proceed through your project, you will find numerous hidden issues that will drive you crazy. Scope creep will kick in and your project may take quite a bit longer. Don't ask me how I know

Regards,
Steve

[Mattk]

your project may take quite a bit longer. Don't ask me how I know

Steve
I bet I know how you know!

Matt,
Looking forward to seeing your build!

Cheers
Matthew

[mattanonymous]

Thanks for the encouragement guys! I'll be sure to post as I go.

SABLT194 that explains perfectly why I'm in year 2 of finishing my basement!

greydog that's a good point. I'd rather not spend the money on another motor, but I might be able to come up with a safe way to tow it around the neighborhood to get a feel for the condition of the car as a whole.

Matthew your build helped to inspire this one. Thanks for all the pics so far!

[SABLT194]

Matt,

If your interested, I have a 1600 motor sitting in my shop that I will gladly let you borrow for a while. You would need to swap all of your accessories, intake, and exhaust. It did run but is certainly pretty tired as I recall.

Regards,
Steve

[mattanonymous]

That's awesome Steve! I'll keep that in mind!

[greydog]

Man, ya gotta love the people on this site.
Where else will you see an offer to loan an engine?
Very cool!

Dan

[mattanonymous]

Picked up the steel stock for the transmission mount, motor mounts, door braces, and electric hoist. The S14 headers I ordered came in. I ordered them because my motor didn't come with an exhaust manifold and I couldn't find one locally, plus it will really dress things up. I plan on modifying them if needed. At $51 shipped, I figure it's worth a shot.

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Now that all the positive stuff is out of the way, I'm trying to think of the best way to tackle the gas tank. It looks like some sort of sealant/liner was used on it previously and it's not in the best shape. I'd like to remove it and possibly apply a new coating.

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My questions are:
- Does this look like it's just a previous coating?
- Any tips on removing it? (I'm thinking of cutting a large section out of the top of the tank so I can really get in there and then welding it back on after installing the pump and sending unit)
- Any suggestions on a product to seal it after I'm done?

Thanks,
Matt

[FergO2k]

Hmm, well, you could take it to a tank coating business, and see if they know what it is from the color/texture. Now depending on how ethical they are, they might tell you anything but their newest product is sub-standard and needs to be removed.
These are called "sloshing compounds" (or at least I heard them referred to this way), and is common in motorcycle tanks because people let them sit a lot. With bikes they put a chain in and have it remove the scale, but we cannot do that because of the baffles, so you will never get your chain back!)
So you might try this:
add a gallon or two to the tank.
Have a friend help you slosh it all around, then tip it up and drain into a pan.
If nothing comes out other than the gas, go with it.
Oh yeah, you are going EFI, so may need to cut the tank anyway....

[Linda]

This place does it for you with a lifetime warranty, fixing any holes too.
www.gastankrenu.com
Linda

[Mattk]

Here my two pennies. First and foremost get it boiled out before you put any fiery stuff near it. Can’t empathize this enough!! Most likely the radiator shop you take it to will offer lining it for you. Mine did and is going to after I finish the mods to it. They, if they are a good shop, will offer to weld it for you and that’s not a bad idea. Gas leaks bad:

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This Miata had a small leak. Fortunately all that happened is the driver and passenger got to watch it burn.

Looks like you’re making some good progress!!

Cheers
Matthew

[mattanonymous]

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm working on tracking down a shop that will do that work. I put in a call to the local gastankrenu affiliate, but haven't heard back. Will try again today.

Edit: Called and they estimated $600 hahahahaha. I'll call a few other places. I've been cleaning the tank out with soap and water and have flame tested it, so worst case I'll just do it myself. The tank itself looks to be in really good shape other than the liner, so I don't think I have holes or rust to worry about. I'll pressure test when done to make sure I won't end up like that Miata owner.

[Cyclewrks]

I had a similar "coating" in my tank, turned out to be lead and additives that had deposited themselves on the interior of the tank. I dropped about 3 feet of bicycle chain (it is small enough to slide under the inner baffles in the tank so you can hit everywhere inside) and shook it around for an hour or so to break stuff up. I had the shop vac attached to the fuel inlet sucking out everything as it came loose. inside of the tank looked great when I was done and have had zero issues since.