Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Edit, I see that you have already confirmed pad wipe. I'm still leaning towards a bad port plug... could have been dislodged during the rebuild.

seriously doubt its cam/stands. they look fine---you said the cam turns smoothly by hand--no need for sand paper- nothing good to be gained from that!

I'd bet it is external to the head--heat shield--or some other squeak.

if it is in fact the valvetrain, I''d still bet rocker/wipe issue. Reground rockers?

if you want to be sure and verify proper cam journal lube, remove the VC & cam and spin the oil pump CCW with a drill. oil will (should) jet
out of all 5 cam stands. -- might be smart since a dry journal is death-- but my guess is you will get plenty of oil.

with the cam installed, oil should come out of every cam lobes fairly vigorously. Many of the budget cam grinders don't remove/replace the end plugs and clean out the U20 cam properly so that can cause a dry lobe, rocker&cam death. j

Thanks All, for the advice. Looks like it might be a good time to get a stheoscope and see if I can more precisely isolate the noise. Seems like it's from the valve train, but it's also appears to sound louder from the drivers side. Perhaps a smog plug IS the source and has just manifested itself since the rebuild. Seems that lately it's gone from one step forward and two steps back to three steps back

I'm thinking smog plug as well. Since the head came apart, there is a good possibility that when things were cleaned, they pulled all the plugs, and perhaps when the thing was rebuilt, one was forgotten, but the cover cap (assuming you have them) was installed over the open hole.

Will

Well, I talked to my cylinder head guy and he said it "might be a high spot on the rocker" too, so there you go. If you're not successful, try a reground or new rocker.

are these used rocker arms?

Well I finally found my squeak After having several people listen to it and using a stheoscope to eliminate various components I tried the one thing that had crossed my mind, but was sure it couldn't be..... Intake leak at carburetor I have never heard an air leak that sounded like this one did! I took the carbs off last week and used gasket sealer this time, but I was afraid to start the engine because if this didn't, and I was sure it wouldn't, fix the problem I wasn't sure where to go next! Needless to say I'm a happy camper now
Thanks for everyone's help.

Was the carb not tightened down enough? Seems the spacer block with gaskets should seal pretty well
Linda

One would think so. Carbs were tight, as a matter of fact I had checked bolts on both sides of isolator's several times. Carbs and manifold only have a few thousand miles on them, as I had just installed them before I parked the car. Don't now why, or care, why they leaked.....just thrilled to have the problem solved and be reinspired to continue on!

theunz wrote: ↑Mon Mar 26, 2018 7:56 pm Well I finally found my squeak After having several people listen to it and using a stheoscope to eliminate various components I tried the one thing that had crossed my mind, but was sure it couldn't be..... Intake leak at carburetor I have never heard an air leak that sounded like this one did! I took the carbs off last week and used gasket sealer this time, but I was afraid to start the engine because if this didn't, and I was sure it wouldn't, fix the problem I wasn't sure where to go next! Needless to say I'm a happy camper now
Thanks for everyone's help.

Everyone likes a happy ending!

Glad it was simple! Didn't smell like valve train or exhaust chirp to me. j