Page 2 of 2
Re: Help with 1970 2000 valuation?
Posted: Thu Feb 08, 2018 7:42 pm
by kingsey2k
Gregs672000 wrote: ↑Thu Feb 08, 2018 7:34 pm
Hope this helps!
Yes, helps a ton, that's a wealth of information. As a complete noob here, can I ask how to discern between the 2000 and the 1600 engine? edit: just look for the dual carbs? (I know it's a dumb question!)
Re: Help with 1970 2000 valuation?
Posted: Thu Feb 08, 2018 8:01 pm
by mraitch
How to discern between U20 and 1600 - simply enough, plate on the right hand side of the ridge above the firewall, valve cover, 1600 is ridged, U20 is smooth and various other engine compartment mods. SPL model number v. SRL model number.
There are a number of opinions as to the best, but consistency is a) look for rust in the usual areas, b) check for cracked floor in the trunk, c) general state of the engine compartment, indicates maintenance, d) paper - paperwork listing all work on the car as far back as possible e) check for bondo especially on left/right rear corners, and above all, if you have belief in what OP says, pay the MOST you can afford, recognizing you will have to put another 1K in to something.
Make sure that the drive train is up to snuff, IMHO most important, Eliza looks like shit, but she drives, if you can't drive it, then it WILL just stay in the garage. Drive, enjoy, note what needs to be done and take care of it as needed. Get to know/love the car , and then all money expended will be appropriate. And, if relevant, give up GOLF, the green fees alone will take care of ALL expenses <g>.
Re: Help with 1970 2000 valuation?
Posted: Thu Feb 08, 2018 8:19 pm
by kingsey2k
mraitch wrote: ↑Thu Feb 08, 2018 8:01 pm
How to discern between U20 and 1600 - simply enough, plate on the right hand side of the ridge above the firewall, valve cover, 1600 is ridged, U20 is smooth and various other engine compartment mods. SPL model number v. SRL model number.
There are a number of opinions as to the best, but consistency is a) look for rust in the usual areas, b) check for cracked floor in the trunk, c) general state of the engine compartment, indicates maintenance, d) paper - paperwork listing all work on the car as far back as possible e) check for bondo especially on left/right rear corners, and above all, if you have belief in what OP says, pay the MOST you can afford, recognizing you will have to put another 1K in to something.
Make sure that the drive train is up to snuff, IMHO most important, Eliza looks like shit, but she drives, if you can't drive it, then it WILL just stay in the garage. Drive, enjoy, note what needs to be done and take care of it as needed. Get to know/love the car , and then all money expended will be appropriate. And, if relevant, give up GOLF, the green fees alone will take care of ALL expenses <g>.
LOL Thanks! Great advice, especially about golf.
Re: Help with 1970 2000 valuation?
Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2018 12:11 am
by AidanDawn2000
Defiantly read the buyers guid in the tech wiki. Having owned a 68 and late 69 I can tell you that the 68s ( and heaven forbid 67.5s
) have a few weak spots that got fixed in 69/70. The electricals (especially fuse box setup), steering, and trany seem to have a lot less problems in the later 69/70 versions.
Also I've been daily driving a U20 for the last two years and have never had a major issue. They're much less delicate than people seem to think (in my experience).
I would struggle to pay more than $5,500 considering you cant test drive that one.
Re: Help with 1970 2000 valuation?
Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2018 2:16 am
by kingsey2k
Oh it is driveable, mechanically it's in good shape aside from a small weep from head gasket and some rust in the tank. Biggest issue is rust in the trunk, passenger side "well" at the seam below the taillight cluster it has rusted through. The rest of the spots pointed out in prior posts here are in good shape. Drove it today and it didn't break a sweat.
Re: Help with 1970 2000 valuation?
Posted: Sat Feb 10, 2018 2:45 pm
by AidanDawn2000
Ooh I thought the gas system was keeping it off the road. Both my cars sat for a few years before I returned them to the road and both needed to get the tank dropped and cleaned out. One had to get boiled out but the other was fine with just pouring hot vinegar and heavy washers in (they slide under the baffles better than ball bearings) and shaking it around a bit.