Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

First post on the board, my heart is set on finding a roadster for a project with my dad in his retirement, with the idea to bring it up to good stock condition with a proper paint job to OEM color.

While I've dealt with classics before, it's been a while and I am completely new to 1600/2000s, I would appreciate a hand with what to offer here. Not afraid to get my hands dirty but need a hand with what to offer.

She's a 1970 2000 that sorely needs prep/paint, new top, interior work like dash cap, etc... but I am told it's mechanically "perfect" (will see it in a few days but it's a bit of a trek so might not have the luxury of multiple trips), 140k is stated milage...complete car w/ matching serial #s, it's been at club meets, 3rd owner but no records. Seller notes there is some rust in the fuel tank that clogs the filter, I assume diesel and ball bearings could possibly solve it without buying a new tank. Unsure what a fair offer that wouldn't be taken as a lowball would be.

Thanks!

Far and away the greatest potential detractor of value with these roadsters is rust. While a car that has spent its life in southern CA or AZ is much less likely to have problems than others, it is difficult to be absolutely sure of the history. My first roadster had rusted through the top of the left front fender, just ahead of the door at just three years. The most important places to check are: behind the front wheels between the fender and the rocker panel cap; the rocker panels; just ahead of and just behind the rear wheels; drivers side floor towards the front. The right side is usually worse than the left. Check front, inside, and bottom of the pocket behind the right rear wheel.

A few years ago that car would not have brought $5K, it looks to be a very original 70 2000. If it shows no signs of extensive damage in the front or rear it would be a good restoration project. The engine compartment looks very original with no damage to the front of the inter fender...Need to see the other side and inside the trunk rear panel to floor seam. As always, I suggest you buy the best you can afford.
I would not assume the mechanicals are "perfect" without documentation.
That car has been for sale for months, IIRC, so I assume you will not get her for less than $7.5 K
I bought my first 69 2000 with a rebuilt Solex motor and spare Solex motor and 5 speed, New paint and interior for $2.5K. I thought I paid too much, but wanted her and "needed" a different car. It was 1998 and now the Solex motor would be a deal at $2.5K.

What I am saying is condition is KING, the price will work itself out in the end.

Thanks so much for the information, greatly appreciated. My gut is telling me to hold out for a '68 or '69 2000, I don't want to rush in so I may take some more detailed pictures and a videos of the engine running, if owner allows and then reevaluate.

"My gut is telling me to hold out for a '68 or '69 2000, "
why??

Before you jump into this I suggest you go to the vendors page under quick links. Datsunparts.com has a very comprehensive website with pictures and prices. This will give you an idea of costs on bringing the car up to the level you desire. Everybody's idea of mechanically perfect and nice driver varies. Look closely at rubber kits, upholstery kits, chrome peices ect. in essence anything you might think you would need to bring it up to your level. Depending how much work you can do yourself, and it is mechanically perfect, I would expect to put in another $5,000to $8,000 for a decent driver. If it needs front end or drivetrain rebuilding you could easily double that. It's not hard to put $2,000 into the front end and $6,000 to $8,000 into the drivetrain. If you can do most all the work yourself you might break even, but I doubt it! That being said, I'm sure you and your dad will enjoy a wonderful experience restoring it, and will end up with a nice attention grabbing car. Good luck, and I hope you can buy it for an agreeable price.

+1 on that.
You might consider a 1600, much cheaper to restore.
On 2000 motors I think too often someone prices out a rebuild and then realized it is too much for them and sells the car. Or just let's it sit endlessly.
Linda

Re Linda's post
you could always stroke a 1600, which gives you comparative power and is much easier/cheaper to maintain.

And no-one will ever know, 'cos you are just messing with the internals

kingsey2k wrote: ↑Thu Feb 08, 2018 3:49 pm My gut is telling me to hold out for a '68 or '69 2000

Not enough difference to make that the deciding factor, IMHO.
I like the side marker lights on the '69, but removed mine years ago along with the side trim...both BIG mistakes.....

'70 2000s are much lower production than '68 or '69 2000s

Okay thanks for opinions and info, greatly appreciated. I only said that about holding out for a '68-'69 because they seem to be preferred more by this bunch, but as I said I am new to these cars. It seems they are all sought after and appreciating. More than anything I just love the car, the roadster style, the era and really miss getting my hands dirty. =)

C.Costine wrote: ↑Thu Feb 08, 2018 7:55 am Far and away the greatest potential detractor of value with these roadsters is rust. While a car that has spent its life in southern CA or AZ is much less likely to have problems than others, it is difficult to be absolutely sure of the history. My first roadster had rusted through the top of the left front fender, just ahead of the door at just three years. The most important places to check are: behind the front wheels between the fender and the rocker panel cap; the rocker panels; just ahead of and just behind the rear wheels; drivers side floor towards the front. The right side is usually worse than the left. Check front, inside, and bottom of the pocket behind the right rear wheel.

Thank you for these tips, much appreciated.

theunz wrote: ↑Thu Feb 08, 2018 4:22 pm Before you jump into this I suggest you go to the vendors page under quick links. Datsunparts.com has a very comprehensive website with pictures and prices. This will give you an idea of costs on bringing the car up to the level you desire. Everybody's idea of mechanically perfect and nice driver varies. Look closely at rubber kits, upholstery kits, chrome peices ect. in essence anything you might think you would need to bring it up to your level. Depending how much work you can do yourself, and it is mechanically perfect, I would expect to put in another $5,000to $8,000 for a decent driver. If it needs front end or drivetrain rebuilding you could easily double that. It's not hard to put $2,000 into the front end and $6,000 to $8,000 into the drivetrain. If you can do most all the work yourself you might break even, but I doubt it! That being said, I'm sure you and your dad will enjoy a wonderful experience restoring it, and will end up with a nice attention grabbing car. Good luck, and I hope you can buy it for an agreeable price.

I will definitely take a more detailed look at what is required, smart to go into the project with eyes wide open in terms of projected costs, regardless of whether it's this one or something else. Thanks for the suggestion on the website as well!

I'm good with my 70. I didn't care for the side markers or the reflectors on the rear panel. So I got rid of them. They're those that say it's the best of the high windshield cars.
The best advice, and it's been said "Buy the best you can afford" then make it yours.
Keith

Oh you guys and your worries about the mighty U20... yes, you can get closer to U20 power in a stroked R16, but the power is mainly found in the head, and the U20 head is unique and very very good for its time. That being said, yes the gears can be expensive (but have come down a lot in cost lately, thank you vendors!) but other than that I do not believe they are significantly more expensive to rebuild than an R16 and offer more power and potential for power (I love R engines, just saying, compare the heads). Remove the valve cover and check the "evil L" for chain strike damage (look for notching on the arm of the L where the chain would have contact right under the cam gear). That may tell you something about the shape of the gears and the number of miles on the engine. If it is notched (as they usually are) you can shim the tensioner and/or replace the timing chains (requires some engine disassembly and likely removal from the car, not hard, not required, but easier). Check the rocker arms for wear (pitting) and if worn look to see if they are two piece (where the cam rides it will have a clear pad; the one piece rockers are clearly one piece and do not have a separate pad) as two piece can be resurfaced for cheap, one piece will need replacing and rockers can be expensive. Cams can be reground if needed (and far more easily replaced or upgraded vs the push rod R16). This engine has already been de-smogged (note the lack of smog pump, etc, though the alternator is still on the driver side of the engine), but you need to find out if the distributor was recurved or not (earlier cars that did not have smog equipment on them had a different timing curve in the distributor and for the engine to work properly it should be recurved, with the better option being to upgrade to an Electronic ignition distributor available from folks here on this forum).
As far as value, as noted it has a lot to do with rust levels as well. Brakes are not cheap but there are options (including different master cylinders, rebuild kits, and very well sorted upgrade kits), and the 5 speed has known issues of often needing a minor mod to keep the 5th gear from walking off but it does require opening up the box, and the syncros are expensive (but can be flipped), though it is a fairly strong trans. The 5th gear/overdrive alone is worth buying a U20/5 speed option if you're gonna do any high speed or freeway driving. Rust in the tank is often a problem and many have posted their struggles and fixes. As suggested, check out the various vendors to find out how much various kits etc are. Front suspension can be expensive too but they last a long time if greased regularly.
Hope this helps!

cktrap wrote: ↑Thu Feb 08, 2018 7:24 pm I'm good with my 70. I didn't care for the side markers or the reflectors on the rear panel. So I got rid of them. They're those that say it's the best of the high windshield cars.
The best advice, and it's been said "Buy the best you can afford" then make it yours.
Keith

Beautiful car love that color.