Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Finally got spark and fuel pumping. Fuel in carb bowls. I looked in the spark plug holes and it doesn't look flooded. Tried spraying carb cleaner in air intake and keeping the throttle wide open, but it still won't start. Is there anything else I can try?

does it even pop? If your not getting anything even with carb cleaner than you have a spark/timing problem. Loosen both the adjusters on the dizzy and get someone to twist it back and forth while you crank it.
If you want you can text me 8312957784

Do a compression test
Is it flooded?
hook up a spark tester (maybe unneeded as you say ,but still helpful to know how strong it is)
Then on its checking fuel & timing issues

Turn the engine to #1 on tdc. Turn the key on. Pop the dis cap. Turn the distributor till the points spark. Install cap . Lock down distributor. Start. Fine tune to spec.

Its all the basics, Suck Squeeze Bang Blow. As Pebbles said, verify the timing, be sure there is spark and if nothing else, it should at least fire up on carb cleaner. The firing order 1-3-4-2, front cylinder is # 1. A quick compression test while the plugs are out can't hurt. Be sure it's not something silly, like you forgot to put the rotor in,(been there done that).

any history, like when was it last running etc?

Compression test showed good in all 4 cylinders. Engine is definitely not flooded. Spark tester shows spark. Would incorrect timing cause it to spark, but not fire? Do I just grab the whole distributor and rotate it until I see sparks? Do I need to loosen a bolt or something first? I don't know how long its been since it has started because it didn't start when I first got it about 3 mo. ago, but I think its been about 1.5 years. Thanks.

Definitely incorrect timing will show spark but not fire. You do have to loosen the bolt holding the Dizzie to the Pedestal, OR the bolt on the bottom side of the Dizzie, choose one or the other, not both to start.
1) Set timing marks to 16 degrees BTDC with #1 piston all the way up and #1 valves closed.
2) Remove distributor cap, verify that rotor is pointing at #1 Cylinder - if not is it 180 degrees out? If 180 out, rotate plug wires to correspond with rotor pointing to #1. If it is something other than on #1, or 180 out, then the distributor needs to be removed, the drive gear moved, and reinstalled - that's another procedure.
3) Turn key on (And make sure it is out of gear too), gently rotate distributor until the exact point you get a spark, when rotating the distributor CLOCKWISE, if you go past this point, rotate back and do it again. When you have it set so it just sparks, lock down the distributor (tighten the bolt)
4) Reinstall rotor and distributor cap - fire it up.

How do I

Set timing marks to 16 degrees BTDC with #1 piston all the way up and #1 valves closed.

? I apologize for my inexperience.

Pull the plugs. Rotate engine by hand with a ratchet on the crank bolt (27mm as I recall), watching for the timing marks on the crank pulley to come around. As you face the engine, the mark to the far left on the pulley is 0, and each mark to the right is 5 degrees advanced. So, 3 marks from 0 would be 15 degrees. Rotate the crank until the pointer on the timing cover lines up just to the right of the 4th mark (if you count the 0 as 1, the second as 5 degrees, etc)... about 16 degrees advanced. Now, remove your distributor cap, loosen the 10mm bolt that holds the distributor down, and rotate the distributor body so it just opens up the points. You can switch on the ignition if you want and rotate the distributor body and watch for where the points spark. Tighten the bolt. Switch ignition off... don't leave it on long term for no reason. Put the rotor on and note that it should be pointing at number one plug wire with the cap back on (could be #4 too because the crank rotates twice for every full rotation of the distributor. Does not matter unless the distributor is 180Degrees off, but don't worry about that now). To confirm your plug wires are in the proper sequence, the next plug wire next in line on the distributor should be #3 as you rotate the engine rotates clockwise looking from the front (or #2 if it was aligned with #4). As noted the firing order is 1 3 4 2.

You have now static timed the engine's ignition, telling the coil to fire the plug 16 degrees before the piston reaches the top of its travel. This is an estimate, so as noted fine tuning with a timing light will be needed, but you should be close.

Rotor and cap back on, see if she will fire. I also suggest real starting fluid vs carb cleaner... much more flammable, but just a blast and avoid too much. If it's getting spark IT WILL FIRE on starting fluid so long as it's not flooded!

Keep at it!

Hopefully this will help.

To add, rotor moves counterclockwise, so order is 1,3,4,2. Little bolt is under the distributor , don't tighten too hard, it can break.
You are doing well for 16.
Linda

You state that it does not appear flooded and that the gas is getting to the carbs. Is it getting to the cylinders? With all that cranking and not firing the plugs should be wet with gas. If not, you can''t expect fire no matter how deep you dig into your ignition.

I guess it's not getting to the cylinders. What should I do? Do I need to clean out the carbs more or something? Or do they need to be primed or something. I know there are no holes in the float and the bowl is about 3/4 full with gas.

There is a little hose on the bottom of each carb (bowl to nozzle). Remove them and clean them out. Reinstall them.
Boom, fuel to jet.

With SU carbs, the end of the jet needs to be slightly lower than the fuel level in the fuel bowl. This is just based on gravity. You can pull off the top dome of the carb. (do one at a time because the top dome and piston are matched set). Remove dome, remove piston (holds the needle). Look down into the carb body and see the brass jet "ring". There should be a little pool of gas at the opening of the jet. If not, reach under the carb and rotate the mixture adjust knob CW until you see fuel puddle.

(Assumes that the fuel feeder hose is not clogged)

The needle meters the gas flow into the cylinder. As the air flow increases with rpm, the piston lifts up, moving the needle out of the jet hole and allowing more fuel to flow to cylinders.