Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Working on removing some of the cracked lead under the cockpit trim by the door jamb. Well it seems the triangle above the striker is made entirely of lead, and I ended up melting a good part of it off. Is there lead anywhere else I should be aware of other than the trunk/ cockpit trim area? I know there is a little where the rockers meet the fender areas.
Re-creating the triangle piece seems like it will be so much fun... that much lead on a vertical surface!

Those are normal spots. I'd leave it in place if I was you, the lead almost never has any issues if the metal itself is solid.

I think I will leave them in place, but I will have to repair the part I accidentally melted off.
I love it when sanding down the layers of old paint, and I hit a spot of lead. The basic dust mask I have been using is in no way adequate to keep me safe from lead.

I think I remember finding some on the front fenders just inboard of the headlights when I sanded mine down to bare metal. It was on the flat angled portion that ends at the top of the grill. I just used body filler to smooth it out and it has looked fine for the last 35 years. I don't think I was even aware of the dangers of lead at the time

It is best to leave it unless you need to do major work in the area. There was some on my '67 where the rear quarter meets the rocker panel, and I needed to reconstruct that area. One of my coaches told me to just blow it out with the torch, which worked very well. You would want to be very careful of sanding very much, which of course puts tiny particles in the air.

I guess I will be wearing my respirator while I get the rest of the car stripped by the sounds of it.

What Sn/Pb ratio does the datsun body solder use? it seems to melt at a lot lower temp than the stuff I have? I need to re-create the the part above the door striker I accidentally melted, but I can't lay any down before the old stuff melts.

Has anyone tried the lead-free body solder from Eastwood?

I too am about to head down filler/solder lane (had car alkaline dipped), and was leaning toward the lead-free stuff so it could be sanded.

goldbug wrote:Has anyone tried the lead-free body solder from Eastwood?

I too am about to head down filler/solder lane (had car alkaline dipped), and was leaning toward the lead-free stuff so it could be sanded.

All the top level pros seem to be saying that lead is old school and the new fillers are much better performing than lead can possibly be. Another major factor are the modern means of thoroughly cleaning of the metal that is being worked on so that the fillers will bond and last forever.

what happens if you sandblast led ?

Lorna c wrote: Sat Mar 03, 2018 6:44 am what happens if you sandblast led ?

I have no idea. I am melting and brushing out all of the lead before I do any sanding, and I am going to soda blast the body so that shouldn't dislodge any remaining lead.

I'm no expert, but I would research body fillers carefully for replacing lead. Many years ago I worked the area where the trunk opening has lead (upper corners), probably grinding out much of it. Over the years the body filler has cracked, where as I don't believe the lead would have.

Sandblasting lead etches the lead, so fillers and primer will adhere to it.
The lead itself generally doesn't fail. If the metal beneath the lead rusts, adhesion failure will occur, causing the lead to split, crumble, etc, as it will with any filler, primer, paint.

Never sand LEAD !!!
@the datsun / nissan. Body shop we had if a sander hit lead ...they yelled lead and the shop shut down to decontaminate it with hasmat suits . ( vacuum & wash. &squegy the floor 2x)
Its that bad ,your liver absorbs it and cant get rid of it .

wow . thx