Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

what's the best way, when it has rust dimples on it too , to clean & polish these old chrome bumpers n such ?

For old chrome in general with rust that is not to severe I have found this to work well on old wheels , mirrors and even did some chairs for an appartment

Lots of work but cheaper than replating if the chrome is not too bad

Step1.
Clean thoroughly with dishwasher soap and water

Step 2.
Clean the affected areas with diet cola and aluminum foil
Fold the aluminum foil into square and rub on the chrome part using the cola as a lubricant until rus is gone and you have a somewhat shiny surface
there's a chemical reaction from the aluminum to the chrome that removes the rust pitting similar to the rust stopping product and the acid in the coke enhances this effect.

Step 3
Rinse and clean thoroughly again with dishwasher soap and water

Step 4
Dry surface with microfibre cloth , dont let dry by air

Step 5
Polish with a chrome wheel polish product as per manufacturer's instructions (I.e. Meguiars Hot Rim Chrome polish)

Step 6 (optional)
Apply 2 coats of carnauba wax or paint sealant

Step 7
Post pictures on 311.org so everyone can go WOW!


Jack

Ps. For step 2 if pitting is a deeper and doesn't come off substitute aluminum foil for #0000 or #000 steel wool but USE WITH EXTREME CARE

now who's going to follow that ? nice thanks
bet you thought you had.avoided any questions from such detailed instructions huh
but I have one . what's" not too much rust ? "
and how do u know if it's film or super thin chrome ? by back bumper looks thin , I don't how to explain it another way . I'll take a picture so u can see . and the lights for blinkers n such is pitted a bit and since I'm folding and not crumpling the foil which side do I use to scrub ? shiny or dull ?

I do like the wax idea too . keep rust out yes ? and the inside also if rust is beginning I would think .. I'll look up that wax and get some ..

Lorna c wrote:now who's going to follow that ? nice thanks

It's on you and depends on the results you want. each step is important, if you don't want to scratch the parts and for the rust to not come back right away after a wash or rain

Lorna c wrote: and how do u know if it's film or super thin chrome ? by back bumper looks thin , I don't how to explain it another way . I'll take a picture so u can see . and the lights for blinkers n such is pitted a bit and since I'm folding and not crumpling the foil which side do I use to scrub ? shiny or dull ?

Your picture is too poor quality to really see anything but it looks like there's no shine left on that bumper so it might be too scratched, I would just give it a try and see what happens

Doesn't matter which side of the foil , just don't apply too much pressure

Lorna c wrote:I do like the wax idea too . keep rust out yes ? and the inside also if rust is beginning I would think .. I'll look up that wax and get some ..

You can do only one of step 5 or 6 as either will offer protection.
If you do only one a polish will be better on chrome

I've mentioned this before but the the most used tool for my restoration has been my 6 inch Harbor Freight bench polisher. It's cheap (about $35) smooth, quiet, and does a wonderful job of shinning chrome, aluminum, and stainless. You can take lightly pitted parts like your tail lights and headlight scoops and make them look nearly new. You can make dull aluminum and stainless shine like chrome in no time at all. I take any nut, bolt, or washer that's going to be visible and hit it with the polisher for a few seconds to bring back the original shine. You can even use it on the black plastic knobs, just be sure to use a very gentle touch. One very important thing to remember is that if you do not have a secure hold on what you are polishing the wheel can rip it out of your hand and send it flying to parts unknown! A small pair of vise grips works well for the nuts and bolts, and a pair of gloves lets you get closer with the bigger ones. Keep in mind that the parts you polish will get hot, so don't immediately grab them with your bare hands. This tool will pay for itself tenfold!
PS don't forget to pick up a few sticks or rouge for the various materials your going to polish. Mike

Polishing rouge is great however it's very easy to scrap your parts if you use the wrong compound,
Chrome polishing require a totally different technique than SS or aluminum
Also a bench polisher is hard to use on larger parts

For smaller parts not Chromed like bolts and fasteners here's an easy to use technique

Dip the part overnight in vinegar or rust remover
You'll end up with something like this
Put a scuff ball on your drill or bolt on drill 1-2 minutes later you'll have this Switch the scuff ball for red rouge if using the drill or aviation metal polish if doing by hand and you'll have this after 5 minutes of work Lots of sanding patience and aviation metal polish will do this to aluminium wheels

While the small bench grinder won't really work on something like a bumper it will achieve the same results on bolts like yours in 30 seconds or less. I've polished nearly every piece of chrome on my car other than the bumpers on the bench grinder. Of course you need to use the correct medium and monitor your progress, but if you burn through the plating it was too thin to begin with and most likely would burn through with any procedure before you achieved the desired shine. The only piece I've really damaged is the plastic rear side marker lens which was the first plastic piece I tried. Even at that I would probably need to point out the damage. The biggest risk is having the pad pull the part out of your hand and bend or loose it. If you visit a chrome plating shop you will see that they use a large bench buffer to polish the bumpers after they are chromed. Same results achieved on small parts with either method, one takes 12 hours the other 30 seconds. Since I work at a glacial pace anyway I love my bench buffer! Mike

Pjackb wrote:

Lorna c wrote:now who's going to follow that ? nice thanks

It's on you and depends on the results you want. each step is important, if you don't want to scratch the parts and for the rust to not come back right away after a wash or rain

Lorna c wrote: and how do u know if it's film or super thin chrome ? by back bumper looks thin , I don't how to explain it another way . I'll take a picture so u can see . and the lights for blinkers n such is pitted a bit and since I'm folding and not crumpling the foil which side do I use to scrub ? shiny or dull ?

Your picture is too poor quality to really see anything but it looks like there's no shine left on that bumper so it might be too scratched, I would just give it a try and see what happens

Doesn't matter which side of the foil , just don't apply too much pressure

got ya !!

theunz wrote:I've mentioned this before but the the most used tool for my restoration has been my 6 inch Harbor Freight bench polisher. It's cheap (about $35) smooth, quiet, and does a wonderful job of shinning chrome, aluminum, and stainless. You can take lightly pitted parts like your tail lights and headlight scoops and make them look nearly new. You can make dull aluminum and stainless shine like chrome in no time at all. I take any nut, bolt, or washer that's going to be visible and hit it with the polisher for a few seconds to bring back the original shine. You can even use it on the black plastic knobs, just be sure to use a very gentle touch. One very important thing to remember is that if you do not have a secure hold on what you are polishing the wheel can rip it out of your hand and send it flying to parts unknown! A small pair of vise grips works well for the nuts and bolts, and a pair of gloves lets you get closer with the bigger ones. Keep in mind that the parts you polish will get hot, so don't immediately grab them with your bare hands. This tool will pay for itself tenfold!
PS don't forget to pick up a few sticks or rouge for the various materials your going to polish. Mike

I just got an old school bench grinder . they have polishing wheels for them ? I'll get one . thx

Pjackb wrote:Polishing rouge is great however it's very easy to scrap your parts if you use the wrong compound,
Chrome polishing require a totally different technique than SS or aluminum
Also a bench polisher is hard to use on larger parts

For smaller parts not Chromed like bolts and fasteners here's an easy to use technique

Dip the part overnight in vinegar or rust remover
You'll end up with something like this

photobucket-12728-1339015485666.JPG

Put a scuff ball on your drill or bolt on drill
photobucket-22883-1339015505342.JPG

1-2 minutes later you'll have this
photobucket-8367-1339015523323.JPG

Switch the scuff ball for red rouge if using the drill or aviation metal polish if doing by hand and you'll have this after 5 minutes of work
photobucket-39863-1339085581803.JPG

Lots of sanding patience and aviation metal polish will do this to aluminium wheels
DSC_0014.JPG

never heard of a scuff ball .. I like the results . harbor freight ?

I just got an old school bench grinder . they have polishing wheels for them ? I'll get one . thx[/quote]

You can put a polishing wheel on a bench grinder, indeed some grinders come with a grinding wheel one one side and a buffing pad on the other. The big difference between a grinder and a polisher is the extended shafts on the polisher which allows more room to maneuver larger parts.

Lorna c wrote: never heard of a scuff ball .. I like the results . harbor freight ?

Yup, but probably more choices at OReilly's or similar search for abrasive balls,
https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-180- ... 61184.html
like sand paper and Steel wool there are grades they're perfect for the rough jobs

On the wheels above to get the mirror finish I started with a 180 grit Scuff ball to remove any scratches then wet sanded in progression 400,500,600,800,1000,1500,2000,3000

theunz wrote:I've mentioned this before but the the most used tool for my restoration has been my 6 inch Harbor Freight bench polisher. It's cheap (about $35) smooth, quiet, and does a wonderful job of shinning chrome, aluminum, and stainless. You can take lightly pitted parts like your tail lights and headlight scoops and make them look nearly new. You can make dull aluminum and stainless shine like chrome in no time at all. I take any nut, bolt, or washer that's going to be visible and hit it with the polisher for a few seconds to bring back the original shine. You can even use it on the black plastic knobs, just be sure to use a very gentle touch. One very important thing to remember is that if you do not have a secure hold on what you are polishing the wheel can rip it out of your hand and send it flying to parts unknown! A small pair of vise grips works well for the nuts and bolts, and a pair of gloves lets you get closer with the bigger ones. Keep in mind that the parts you polish will get hot, so don't immediately grab them with your bare hands. This tool will pay for itself tenfold!
PS don't forget to pick up a few sticks or rouge for the various materials your going to polish. Mike

Yup, Harbor Freight buffer. I've just about worn mine out. Buffer on one end and I put a soft wire wheel on the other. Yes it is not a powerful motor and will bog down but quite often that is a good thing to prevent damage from getting a bit too frisky with it. The extended shaft really makes it better.