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Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2

Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2017 2:51 pm
by 2mAn
greydog wrote:Yes.
Maybe.
Dan
Thanks Dan
:smt023

Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2

Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2017 9:56 pm
by mlwebb
Suggestions for reinstalling side window glass in bottom track? I got the passenger side window in, but the drivers side popped out of it's track while I was trying to wrestle it into the door (expletives omitted). I gather the original was some sort of thin rubber cemented to channel and glass (and perhaps pressed together), I probably have some 1/16 thick neoprene glazing tape (for windows), or 3M VB tape, or also considering sealants, as the tape idea seams like it could be difficult to get everything in the channel.
Michael

Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2

Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2017 10:53 pm
by Nissanman

Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2

Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2017 10:25 pm
by 2mAn
rear shocks is a 5 minute job they said....

20 minutes later I got the top nuts off and the bottom seems hopeless. Theres a locknut of some sort, it pretty much disintegrated on the pass side and the driverside was even worse. The nut is spinning with the shaft, so before I start break more stuff, is there something simple I am overlooking? Normally when its double nut-ed I use two wrenches and bing bang boom off it comes. Doesnt seem to want to do that this time.

ImageShocking by 2mAn

Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2

Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2017 10:43 pm
by Nissanman
The shocks are trashed yes?
Break out a pipe wrench to grip the shock body or better still, cut the suckers off with an angle grinder :twisted: :twisted:

Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2

Posted: Thu Oct 26, 2017 12:43 am
by 2mAn
Nissanman wrote:The shocks are trashed yes?
Break out a pipe wrench to grip the shock body or better still, cut the suckers off with an angle grinder :twisted: :twisted:
They are garbage, yes. I can be an animal, didnt know if there was a civilized option Ive overlooked.

Time to destroy some stuff!

Re: The Quick, Datsun 510 brake cylinders

Posted: Sat Oct 28, 2017 10:51 pm
by BBF Roadster
Will the rear brake cylinders from a 510 work on my 67.

Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2

Posted: Sun Oct 29, 2017 1:52 pm
by spl310
Threads are different, so if you get adapters, yes

Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2

Posted: Sun Oct 29, 2017 3:21 pm
by fj20spl311
2mAn wrote: Normally when its double nut-ed I use two wrenches and bing bang boom off it comes. Doesnt seem to want to do that this time.

ImageShocking by 2mAn
Next time clean the threads with a wire brush FIRST. Two wrenches is correct.

Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2

Posted: Mon Oct 30, 2017 7:56 pm
by Ralph
Sitting in traffic yesterday I noticed fumes coming from under the hood. Pulled to the shoulder & popped the hood. Gentle fumes the colour of steam were coming from the breather tube on my valve cover (U20). Same thing today and when I got home I checked the engine temp with my laser reader ... normal...What is normal for fumes of any kind from the breather tube?
notoptoy wrote:Just a few thoughts and not complete by any means , but some fumes are going to be normal, it is a vent for the crankcase. So, fuel fumes might indicate a super rich condition where fuel is getting past the rings, or even leaking into the oil from the fuel pump housing (very unusual) or possibly bad intake valve seats. Antifreeze/coolant smell could indicate a bad, or going bad head gasket - might want to retorque you head bolts. Could also be a crack in the head/block somewhere - hopefully not! Oil smells, well that's normal, though a lot would indicate worn rings or valve guides perhaps.
I'll try adjusting for the super rich condition ... there is a bit of run - on when the ignition is turned off ... then a head re-torque since the head was off this summer

Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2

Posted: Mon Oct 30, 2017 8:43 pm
by C.Costine
2mAn wrote:rear shocks is a 5 minute job they said....

20 minutes later I got the top nuts off and the bottom seems hopeless. Theres a locknut of some sort, it pretty much disintegrated on the pass side and the driverside was even worse. The nut is spinning with the shaft, so before I start break more stuff, is there something simple I am overlooking? Normally when its double nut-ed I use two wrenches and bing bang boom off it comes. Doesnt seem to want to do that this time.

ImageShocking by 2mAn
Those top nuts aren't even real nuts. They are just pal nuts. When spinning free they are not your problem. Flame wrench is best or if you don't have one, go with the recip. saw or hack saw. They are junk any way don't spend time on them.

Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2

Posted: Wed Nov 01, 2017 2:53 am
by Lorna c
jumping in so I can find it easier later .. haha
hi by

Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2

Posted: Thu Nov 02, 2017 3:48 pm
by DatsunRoadster2000
1969 - 2000

1. Does anyone know the size of the bolts that are connected to the seat rails, that secure the seats to the floor?

2. Does anyone know the bolt size needed to mount the seat belts to the holes on the tunnel and down by the door?

Thanks! :wink:

Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2

Posted: Thu Nov 02, 2017 4:48 pm
by mraitch
@ c costine
suggestion is to compress the shock and vice grip the lower shock 'shaft'
worst is to do the same and use cutoff tool.

Re: The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 2

Posted: Thu Nov 02, 2017 4:54 pm
by mraitch
@mlwebb - re window glass.
what I have done successfully
1) remove all relevant bits and clean.
2) get a bike inner tube - my local bike store has trashed ones - cheap
3) fit (with glue) tube into lower carrier - let sit for some time.
4) glue window into carrier - also let sit.
5) install.

Make SURE that the left / right channels are clean - perhaps good time to replace with nice 'furry bits AND make sure that rear channel is properly situatated - the bottom 'bracket' often breaks more on the driver side rather than the passenger - BUT
HTW.