Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Sort of. It's a metal support that is stamped. It's mostly the shape of the outer dash tho.
I think the skin went into a mold, the metal suport was mounted to it and foam injected between. I say that because the foam is not consistent thickness all over and there is more "shape" to the skin than to the support so there must be some sort of mold involved.
Dan

2mAn wrote: ↑Wed May 08, 2019 2:19 pm I need to take the dash out to remove the heater controls and some other items, Im curious if the dash has a metal shell behind the softer skin thats cracked?

http://www.mydatsunroadster.com/category/dashboard/

Does this help?

My water pump was making horrible noises today, so I pulled everything apart to replace it. The fan bolts were thin where they rubbed against the pulley, and the pulley bolt holes were wallowed out pretty far. One of the bolts had already sheared off. Fortunately I have another pulley handy, and will get some Grade 8 bolts. Any thoughts on what would cause this? Belt too tight maybe? Any other thoughts before I put it back together?

Fan bolt and fan pulley on my Datsun looking rough. by Michael Downes, on Flickr

Related, are U20 water pumps rebuildable? The one I'm taking off has less than 10k miles and is about 3-4 years old. I hate to scrap it.

Yes, water pumps can be rebuilt. The bolts were loose allowing the pulley to chuck back and forth - the threads basically filed slots in the bolt holes. I think that your bolts may be too long. I would get a shorter length.

Is Ac Delco e661 is a solid state plug and play for 67.5 1600 VR ? I can’t find a wiring diagram for the pin layout on the acdelco part. I did see the Datsun 1200 article

What type, size, and pitch are the screws that hold the left side and the trim pieces onto the lower of the early roadster? They seem to be around a number 4 but with a coarser thread than number 4s come with.

C.Costine wrote: ↑Thu May 09, 2019 5:03 pm What type, size, and pitch are the screws that hold the left side and the trim pieces onto the lower of the early roadster? They seem to be around a number 4 but with a coarser thread than number 4s come with.

"onto the lower WHAT?"

Subject: Deleting the fan. Other than shorter bolts to replace the space taken up by the spacer and fan itself, is there anything else I need to worry about? Champion Radiator is on the way and I plan to wire up an electric fan.

Seems simple, just want to make sure Im not overlooking anything

Use a new power feed for the fan via a relay and appropriate fuse.
There are industrial temperature switches that are perfect for electric fan use: -







Component ID KSD 301, Normally Open, 95degC

notoptoy wrote: ↑Thu May 09, 2019 9:15 pm

C.Costine wrote: ↑Thu May 09, 2019 5:03 pm What type, size, and pitch are the screws that hold the left side and the trim pieces onto the lower of the early roadster? They seem to be around a number 4 but with a coarser thread than number 4s come with.

"onto the lower WHAT?"

Lower dash. Sorry

What type, size, and pitch are the screws that hold the left side and the trim pieces onto the lower dash of the early roadster? They seem to be around a number 4 but with a coarser thread than number 4s come with.

What type, size, and pitch are the screws that hold the left side and the trim pieces onto the lower dash of the early roadster? They seem to be around a number 4 but with a coarser thread than number 4s come with.

I recently purchased a 20 tooth speedo trans gear to make my speedo read a bit more accurately, but found the gear to be considerably larger in diameter than my stock one. Dean indicated that there was a different, offset housing for the different gears... anyone have one or heard of it? Thanks...

@gregs672000

Yup, have faced the same problem and off hand I can't 'exactly' remember the solution, other than you have to use a different carrier.

The 'stock' carrier can only handle 16-18 teeth as best as I recall, because the drive is 'offset' and as the number of teeth increase, the gear gets larger.

From the Techwiki." carrier/pinion sets are available from Nissan P/N 32702-58SXX - where xx is the number of teeth."

The problem that I found (solveable) is that using this carrier and expecting it to align up 'exactly' with the retainer on the tranny doesn't work, because the gear is too much in contact and will self destruct within 100 yards - or fewer.

What I did, successfully, was to install the 'later carrier' and pinion (from a 200SX, I think) and rotate it clockwise into the transmission until it starts to 'bind' Then back off. This then will require cutting a notch into the carrier so that it matches the standard 'clip'.

As Dean indicates on his website , each tooth represents 5 MPH

Q
Each tooth on a speedometer pinion gear represents 5 miles per hour.
If the speedometer is running too high you need to get a gear with more teeth to slow it down.
If the speedometer is running too slow you need to get a gear with less (sic) teeth to speed it up.
EQ

Unlikely to ever get accuracy, but certainly closer. ALso check the techwiki for Ross' comments on pinions and related speedometer relationship, tire/wheel diameters also have an impact.

It seems that the faster one goes, the speedo lags behind. So it seems best to gauge based upon a 70-75 mph GPS variance analysis.

Now, it maybe, that 'adjusting' the 'stock' carrier might achieve the same result, but I believe that some sort of adjustment, perhaps in the order of 20-30 degrees of 'retard' will be necessary.

HTH, if exlpanation seems obscure, please feel free to contact me for perhaps a more informative explanation.

Best, Pete.