Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

A look at my engine before cleaning. I am hoping with multiple oil washes it will look a little better but it's not to bad now.

Little bit of buffer time on my exhaust manifold. Had to wet sand it first because it was in pretty rough shape. I know I can get it much shinier but it's a lot easier to look at now.

Nice. Shiny is always faster.....
Dan

Have any of you tried RetroBrite ing your dull yellowed plastic. Using a Clarol Pure White 40 hair bleaching product that is being shown on youtube. My 50 year old washer fluid reservoir was in bad shape. I am hoping for one more Christmas miracle. I think I will add some baking soda to the pure white to make it stick better to the plastic. The sun is suppose to help and it's a little gray out today in Florida. Just goop it on and put in plastic so it stays wet. leave it out for as long as it takes.

I want to see how this turns out!

I tried something similar a few years ago with absolutely no success. I gave up and painted mine with a white rubberized paint. I would really like a new one, and Datsun Roadster Parts has one, however my pockets are not near deep enough to find the nearly $500 they want! Hope you have success with your endeavor.

I tried something similar a few years ago with absolutely no success. I gave up and painted mine with a white rubberized paint. I would really like a new one, and Datsun Roadster Parts has one, however my pockets are not near deep enough to find the nearly $500 they want! Hope you have success with your endeavor.

spl310 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 28, 2018 5:33 pm I want to see how this turns out!

Big improvements but holy fat cow this takes several days to get the yellow out. I am on day 6 or 7 I think and today I used 1000 grit sand paper on the plastic and put on more goop. I think sanding will open up the pours of the plastic.

Does anyone know what to do with the heater hose shown on the red paint? I know the yellow taped end closer to the bottom of the picture is out to the evaporator/Heater (vintage air mini) and the other is to the from the evaporator/heater but no clue what the other is for on this SR20DE S14.
update: I believe it fits back into the intake manifold now. Comments still welcome!

I have officially tried starting the car for the first time! The starter does not want to crank for some reason. Oh well... It's been a long road to this point and I am very happy to be figuring out regular car issues instead of reinventing the wheel. Monday could be the day I bring her to life.
As far as the heater and vacuum lines, I hope I got it right...

Epic fail on the first start. Not sure how I am not grounding properly. All the new paint is not good when trying to ground. Here is what's happening...
I am using the ignition switch that came with the car (I have a 70 switch in a 68) and have connected the wires from the switch as shown in the topic Ignition Switch Wiring (by Bergcc)
S - Start
IG - Ignition
B - Battery/Alternator
A - Accessory
R - Resistor
I do not have the accessory or the resistor wired in yet because I'm only looking to turn over the engine. With the Wiring Specialties engine harness, I have the battery connected to the battery wire on the harness, Start to Start, Ignition to Ignition. Without using the grounding wire kit from wiring specialties, I can get the engine to power to the fuel pump and hear a click as the starter tries to engage. When I add the grounding kit nothing happens, as in no sound from the fuel pump and no starter click. The directions for the harness says that many cars need a second direct power line from the battery to the starter. So I did this and this is when the smoke started. My grounding wires are getting hot and very fast! I don't want to melt my ECU but don't know what I am doing wrong.
Where and what are you SR20 peoples grounding to?

I know less than nothing about the SR20 engines. That being said, the starter circuit should not be unique. If you want, I could see about coming down to help out.

I don't use the Wiring Specialties harness to start my engine. Yury may have made some improvements since I purchased mine but I you should have a battery connection (10-12 gauge), ignition (14-16 gauge), and ground to the relays that came with your harness. When you turn the ignition switch, this allows the battery power to operate the fuel pump (10-12 gauge) from the relays (and powers the ECU). When you turn the switch to start, you send power to the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid should have a large gauge wire ( I think I am using 1/0) directly from the battery (the Wiring Specialites Harness battery wire is not nearly large enough) and a ground too.

You should not use the ballast resistor for the SR20 since you don't need to drop the voltage to a coil while running like in a stock roadster.

I'm using a Ron Francis grounding system in my car.

If you are smoking, you have a direct short to ground somewhere or maybe you are trying to start the car using using ignition power or a small gauge wire.

Shannon

spl310 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 15, 2019 9:36 am I know less than nothing about the SR20 engines. That being said, the starter circuit should not be unique. If you want, I could see about coming down to help out.

That would be great! I'm nervous as a lady of the evening in church 1 You have my phone number still? call if you do

sfdaugherty wrote: ↑Tue Jan 15, 2019 9:53 am I don't use the Wiring Specialties harness to start my engine. Yury may have made some improvements since I purchased mine but I you should have a battery connection (10-12 gauge), ignition (12-14 gauge), and ground to the relays that came with your harness. When you turn the ignition switch, this allows the battery power to operate the fuel pump (10-12 gauge) from the relays (and powers the ECU). When you turn the switch to start, you send power to the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid should have a large gauge wire ( I think I am using 1/0) directly from the battery (the Wiring Specialites Harness battery wire is not nearly large enough) and a ground too.

You should not use the ballast resistor for the SR20 since you don't need to drop the voltage to a coil while running like in a stock roadster.

I'm using a Ron Francis grounding system in my car.

If you are smoking, you have a direct short to ground somewhere or maybe you are trying to start the car using using ignition power or a small gauge wire.

Shannon

I do not see a place to ground the Bussman relay/fuse box but I will mount it to the body( it is not as of yet). I do not have a ground to the starter but I will do that and retry. What do you think about the extra wire to the battery? The battery is grounded in the trunk but I am going to remove more paint.