Tips on ignition tuning....

[Bungle]

When setting the correct ignition advance on an R1600, which point of adjustment are you supposed to use?

I've attached links to 2 images that show the two points I'm referring to:

1. where you can use a phillips head to loosen a screw that allows some rotation of the distributor body and;

2. where you can use an 8mm spanner to loosen a nut that will also allow some rotation of the distributor...

How do you guys use these to set the timing? Is there one that should be left alone and only use the other - or do you use both points of adjustment?

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-6/1 ... CF0002.JPG

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-6/1 ... CF0008.JPG

I'm having real trouble setting the tune. I think there's something wrong with my distributor... I've set the timing at what I believe to be 16 BTDC at idle (600rpm) but when revving the car under load, I get severe backfiring through the carbs.. a lot of 'pops' and 'crackles' etc... runs like a bag of shiite. The points gap is set @ 0.5mm (manual says between 0.45 & 0.55) and everything else seems to be in order. The carbs are rebuilt. Has anyone been subjected to this kind of frustrating agony before and has found out the solution? I'm hoping is something simple to fix aka cheap. If you have any tips, please let me know!

[S Allen]

John,

Use the top adustment for advancing and retarding for normal adjustments. Only in extreme cases should you have to mess with the bottom adjustment. It sounds like you have some bad bushings which is making the points bounce under load. I had that problem with my very first roadster. You really have four choices.

1. Rebuild your existing dizzy
2. Purchase a stock rebuilt dizzy
3. Purchase a Gary Boone EI dizzy
4. Contact Scott Lindley and ask him how he built his own EI dizzy.

With the cap off, grab the rotor and see if there is any wobble(play) in the shaft. If you have any play your bushings are shot and no amount of adjusting will get you dialed in. You will be chasing your tail.

Steve

[Bungle]

Ok, I did the checks you said.... There is a tiny amount of lateral movement in the shaft. I guess considering the size of the points gap this could be significant enough to mess with the dwell. Do you agree? I mean it's a very small amount, but it's there.

Also, there is some rotational movement in the shaft. I'm reckoning about 10-15 degrees. I'm not sure if this is normal?

I'm heading toward a new distributor... Is there any other datsun or nissan that you can use a distributor from? I mean maybe there are new ones I can get in Australia that I can use, as there isn't anyone selling roadster parts here, and the exchange rate from the states is a killer. What about the H20 motor? Can you use a distributor from that?

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[S Allen]

Get a new or rebuilt and I think you will be pleasantly surprised as to how well she will run. Mark, is right an H20 dizzy should drop right in. Find a rebuilt for an Irvan and you should be good to go.


steve

[Bungle]

while we're at it.... do you reckon an entire H20 motor will drop in? does a 4-speed bellhousing mate to the rear of the block?

[S Allen]

Yes, the four speed should mate up to the H20 just fine. Maybe you could even scrounge up a 5 speed. H20 parts are pretty cheap compared to R16 parts up here. There are many H20 parts that fit the R16 just like they belong there. I am running a complete H20 timing set including crank sprocket, cam gear, chain tensioner and chain. Works great.

Steve

[Bungle]

Now I'm thinking, down the line, a H20 with a 5-speed would be ideal. I think Repco (a big auto parts supplier) here do a rebuilt off the shelf H20 seeing the Urvan is relatively common (well, relative to the Fairlady).

I really only want to use my roadster to cruise and plan to do a long trip (being in Australia, I really mean long), so a good torque delivery and highway fuel economy are my priorities.

Do you think an H20 Urvan motor in standard tune (the tune of an Urvan would presumably be for low end torque and fuel economy) run ok using the twin hitachi SU's? Would the jetting on the carbs suited for a 1600 roadster cam be suited to a H20 Urvan cam? Or, would I need to use the standard downdraft carb used with the H20 on the urvan?

ps. probably belongs in 'engine swaps' sorry....

[spl310]

Dan Zubkoff can give you the scoop on this, but I believe that the stock cam would be fine. You may have to swap to the side drafts for hood clearance, so if you are going to do that, you could always put webers/dellortos/solex carbs on it. JAM Engineering sells a manifold with linkage fairly cheap!

[Bungle]

On the flip side, I'm starting to wonder if there are loads of Nissan Urvan 5-speeds lying around wrecking yards in Oz that'd be useful for R16 5-speed conversions....?

[spl310]

That would sure help with the parts issues and would make a lot of 1600 guys happy!