Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Here are the pictures from my introduction from a very days ago. Since this is a long term members ride, figure this is the best location for the on going saga of my new garage squatter in all of the PO's former glory and the CO's stunned gory. Have attached the files and now I will move into a new dimension of posting pictures

Ummm, well, ummm... did you want a huge project? Cause there's a lot to do there, i.e. the entire car is suspect in my opinion. I would consider seeking a better example and turn this into a parts car unless you are very committed and have lots of resources and skill. Just my opinion... sorry man.

Gregs672000 wrote:Ummm, well, ummm... did you want a huge project? Cause there's a lot to do there, i.e. the entire car is suspect in my opinion. I would consider seeking a better example and turn this into a parts car unless you are very committed and have lots of resources and skill. Just my opinion... sorry man.

+1

It's a Wisconsin car so...

What does the frame and the fenders and inner fenders look like behind the front wheels?

Cheers
James

West coast folks have it so easy. For wisconsin, that car is almost show ready.

I think he was told it sat in texas for a stretch. A post in thread of shame seems appropriate....
someone likely tied a tow rope around the sway bar pylon.

I don't want to discourage the guy, but I know what it is like to start digging in and finding more and more stuff... mine had holes all through it (floor, rockers, trunk... you name it, Canadian car) and I had never done body work in my life, let alone replaced sheet metal. All my stuff was in places that didn't show (like the floor) so I did not care if it looked stock or pretty. Mine was all done with rivets as none of it required welding and I did not know how to weld nor did I have access as a kid. I just wanted to get the car to California and I had a deadline! 30yrs later it is still solid as a rock, and none of the rust has returned (SEMS rust seal rocks!). My floor had holes, but was not as bad as that. What concerns me more on his car is the rust all the way up into the back panel... I'm afraid the whole car has cancer and the body would really need to be dipped to stop it. My top cap on the frame was rusted through or nearly so wherever the horse hair pads were installed, so the whole frame was sand blasted (in my sisters garage, oh was that fun!) and painted (again, did not look like these powder coated works of art others have done, but is solid and dirty now as it should be). When I read "time frame", "I'm 62" (no offense, but I know it is becoming harder and harder for me to lay down on concrete, get back up, lay down again, over and over day after day), "told her it would be driving by the end of summer" and "wife is pissed" I'm thinkin that this is not the Roadster for you... you ARE a Roadster person, but just perhaps not this one. I do not know what you paid, or what your potential budget is, but when considering everything that will need to be done (brakes! Expensive. Front suspension? Expensive. Engine? Rebuilds have become more expensive, U20 even more. Body work and paint? Those things take time and patience, and there is a steep learning curve, but you can save some $$ doing the work yourself). We're clearly talking body off the frame rebuild here. If you were to purchase a car that is more in line with your skill set, desires and time frame, I think you will end up spending less and enjoying more. We are here to help, and will encourage and assist you with any car you decide on, but you have a big project there and you will need to LOVE the car and have bonded to her, or craigslist will be in your future. When I first got my car, I had a guy come over with a newly found friend (Gordon Glasgow, also a '67 2000 owner) and this guy (not Gordon) told me I would never get the car on the road... was glad to prove him wrong, 30yrs and counting...
Let us know how we can help!

Well, I any not getting any warm fuzzy thoughts about this car from the feedback on this topic, open notes and PM's. The overall theme is sell and buy a better example. The overall theme from my lovely wife, she agrees with the first part of the feedback (sell) but not the second part (buy another). My question for the group from the pictures, what is this car really worth. Knowing that helps me make a decision based on sell and then buy. I'm aware that I got screwed about the condition of the car. I do believe that the real worth of this car (not what I paid) will make it impossible to buy another better example. The worst part is I had another option to buy a different car (67 1600) for more but in better condition. However at the time both cars were being sold as driving projects. I guess I understand that Indian Jones movie better today as the Crusader said, "he choose poorly." The other reason why I believe it is sell and not buy is I used up my one and only, look honey what followed me home surprise.

My apologies Noel. Car needs a lot of welding. Maybe only floor pans? trunk floor cracks are typical to many roadsters.
Need more pics of engine, frame, top(s) etc., a distant perspective shot as well, all the trim, grill etc.
One option before throwing in the towel, would be to follow through with the "get it running" approach, to see what you have and to familiarize yourself with the Fairlady.
A strong drivetrain with a good 5 speed can be worth 4-5K imho.

As I continue to take the car apart, only major rust in the floor pans and the pan behind the seats. The trunk has major cracks and I mean major. The fuel tank is out as well as the radiator and other parts from the engine. Will have pictures to follow as this seems the best way to share my pain for what was to be a driving project. I have noted a lot of other cars I should have bought, but alas. Question on removing the fenders. I have all of the screws out on the fenders except for the two located in the inside of the car. Is that correct that it is two on both sides. Having an issue with these coming out. All of the others were a phillips screwdriver and a 7/16 wrench. However the 7/16 does not fit the inside and I have tried other sizes that do not match out. Any ideas and best way to remove the bolt that is about two inches below the hole opening at the bottom of the floor pan. I feel silly about asking as this should be straight forward but I keep getting pissed and moving on to other parts to take off. It is now time to remove the fenders and see what rust is hidden away. Any ideas on finding a floor pan and rear deck as most of the sites only have part of the floor and no rear deck pan.

Check with Ross at Sports Imports for replacement sheet metal/patch panels.
Not sure on your "inside bolts" as I have not removed a Roadster fender in a very, very long time

It depends on your level of commitment , but.....
With a good drivetrain and frame, you can always bolt on a whole new body.
Might take a while to find, but its do able

These guys make a lot lf panels. Not cheap but the exchange rate might be beneficial as they are in Australia. PM me for postage options as I use a surface shipping company that specialises is car parts and they are cheap and reliable and might be able to help out.
http://automotivepanelcraft.com.au/stor ... path=59_95

They also have a store on eBay.com.au

My 68 has the exact same size and shape rust hole in the floor by the gas pedal. I'll tell you from experience that your right foot will get partially cooked by the exhaust running right below it. Not pleasant for long drives

Since you have the exact size hole this could be an advantage for me in the winter months (in Wisconsin we have pre-winter, winter, post-winter and pseudo-summer) for having a back up heater for the car. That will easily cover 9 months of the year for good heat. Gotta look on the positive side.