Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Tried bleeding clutch yesterday.

Got firm pressure and was able to shift.

After a short drive, I couldn't shift to any gear when car was at rest.

Had to start in gear then rev match shift to get home.

Can't see ANY leaks.

Any idea what could be happening??

Slave or master (sorry, p.c "release" cylinder " )probably leaking past piston cup thus not building enough pressure. Likely the release cylinder if you were able to bleed the master and get fluid to squirt out.

If not hydraulic issue than could be somthing wrong with rhe pressure plate? Also verify the adjuster nut on the slave didnt loosen up. I had that happen to mine.

Also check for wear on the pin in the pedal.

Had a spring break on me once and pedal went limp at the Slave.

Try having someone pump the clutch. See if the arm for the clutch release moves. If its stationary, or moves very little, you have an issue on the hydraulic side. I'd start with the slave and go from there.

Will

Is fluid in the clutch master reservoir at a reasonable level?

mraitch wrote:Tried bleeding clutch yesterday.

Were you bleeding the clutch to solve a problem or just to flush fluid as maintenance?

Based on advice in previous posts, I had better results when bleeding the clutch to reduce the volume in the slave by compressing it. You can try wedging a piece of wood between the rod end and fork or figure out how to clamp the rod so it doesn't move.

http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... ng#p104143

I like using a power bleeder when doing it myself without a helper.

Adding to Will's advice, position your phone to take video of the slave to see what happens when you push the pedal if you are working solo.

I was bleeding the clutch because suddenly I couldn't shift easily. And it was a bit dirty.

Like the phone idea - have to work today, but will retry tomorrow - good idea.

What difference does it make to minimize the amount of fluid by 'locking' the slave. Doesn't make intuitive sense to me.

Thanks for help so far.

mraitch wrote:I was bleeding the clutch because suddenly I couldn't shift easily. And it was a bit dirty.

Seems like you might have something additinal going on.

mraitch wrote:What difference does it make to minimize the amount of fluid by 'locking' the slave. Doesn't make intuitive sense to me.

My initial thought is that since the bleed nipple is at a lower elevation and adjacent to the inlet hose there could be a chance to trap an air bubble. With a smaller volume to flush you have less likelihood to trap bubbles.

If your fluid was black it is an indication of moisture and/or seal deterioration. A few years ago I found a master for under $20 and a slave seal kit for about $5. While you are at it get a new hose too and you'll have peace of mind on hydraulics for a modest cost. Maybe the hose has gotten soft and isn't holding its diameter when hot.

What are your pedal height and engagement point like? I'd also look at making an adjustment at the clutch at the slave piston / fork interface.
http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=566#p2848

Check for leaks on the passenger side of the firewall below the clutch master. Also, pop the rubber boot on the clutch slave to see if fluid is seeping past the seal.

Some past discussion that may be helpful:
http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... ilit=Slave

I had a probldm whre the hose to the slave had warn out and it would expand like a baloon bfore actusting the lave cylinder. If I pumped the clutch pedal it would engage. Getting a camera on it will help you to diagnose.

Thanks for all your responses. Just going to have breakfast and then get myself covered in brake fluid. Phone/camera was a great idea.

so - got slave off - phew -
1) used phone - slave was pushing as expected
2) opened up pin to maximum - still couldn't shift
3) am I correct in thinking that there should be NO fluid in slave after the rubber washer/plunger?
4) How to get 'mechanism/pin' out of slave - tried compressed air - but it hangs up just before exiting.
(got plunger out by bleeding and using pedal to force it out)
5) could it be something inside of tranny??
6) any more thorts??
7) Up until this happened, I had not touched ANY part of the clutch system.

Thanks

Sounds like the clutch cover has failed/gone bad

[attachment=0]IMAG0836[1].jpg[/attachment]
Found something in messing around with clutch which would undeniably, eventually fail at worst possible moment.
Note the NOTCH carved into the bottom of the throwout bearing lever.
Don't know how much longer it would take for the spring to completely wear through, but certainly worth checking on your car.

Reassembing everything in the blind hope that all will work. Just don't want to pull engine AGAIN, though I don't know how to 'fix' that notch without R+R engine and replacing the lever.

# 6th or 7th I believe.

Hopefully you are wrong David, but I am leaning in that direction too.

david premo wrote:Sounds like the clutch cover has failed/gone bad

Ya, if you can observe the clutch arm moving at least 1.5-2 inches they hydraulics are working. I would get under the car and actually observe and manipulate the slave and arm while someone else is pushing the pedal. Could be the plate has failed as Dave suggests, or the arm has become disconnected off the pivot ball it fits onto, held on by a clip. Either way, it's engine pulling time if that's the case...
You certainly can replace all the hydraulics just to be sure, and if not needed you will have spares for the future. That was the decision I just made myself, was able to get a master and slave from the local parts store for a decent price. Good luck!