Oil Pump Cost?

doobop101 · Post by **doobop101** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 2:22 pm

I have a 69 2000 that had the timing chains done about a year ago but I am still getting chatter from my chain. The mechanic that replaced the chains mentioned that the oil pump should be watched.**.Cant find a price online from vendors**...gauge shows 50% pressure on start up and at initial idle but after a couple miles it dips down to zero psi. at idle but still rises with rpms
Just changed oil and all looked good
Maybe an aftermarket guage to verify actual readings?
The side of the chain next to the top tensioner is pretty tight but the opposite side(away from tensioner is slack)

Conner · Post by **Conner** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 2:52 pm

The part # I found is 15010-25501 and Nissan lists that part at $150.17. Now you should be able to get the price assuming the part is still available. If it is NLA then the lower supply will lead to higher prices.

datsun65 · Post by **datsun65** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 4:12 pm

As of 8 weeks ago, part was NLA. Last new pump on Ebay hit over $300, but didn't make reserve.

Dean may have a pump, but only as part of a full rebuld kit for the U20.

Dan

spyder · Post by **spyder** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 10:16 pm

I doubt it is the pump. Think about it, it rides in oil. I did a rebuild around 1990 and had all new stuff and great oil pressure. I beat the bejesus out of this car for about ten years and noticed the pressure going down like you described. So I figured it was time to rebuild it before it exploded. Once again, new stuff but this time oil pressure did not change. Very low when hot.? The California gurus said this is normal. I beg to differ since I saw different behavior after the first rebuild. My theory is there is too much clearance in the cam tower bearings. The only thing I did not change and I ran the motor with the valve cover off, (messy!) And noticed a hell of a lot of oil in the head. You can put a spacer on the tensioner piston to limit its travel when oil is low or on startup. It limits the amount of slack given to the chain. Another fix is cam tower spacers but you need to be careful of the cam geometry. I have done both to compensate for reground cam and I found Havoline oil seems to have the best pressure.

doobop101 · Post by **doobop101** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 10:52 pm

Could you name a good source for the Cam Tower Shims?
I saw one vendor has them for $69.00, is this about right?
And does my description of the chain sound correct?
Seems like a lot of slack on the opposing side of the tensioner.
But it must be because nothing is on that side other than the guide.

spyder · Post by **spyder** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 11:00 am

I purchased cam tower shims from http://www.datsunparts.com/ in 2002. They are .050 and they were $24. Lets discuss some theory, the chain is pulling the cam sprocket on the side away from the tensioner, therefore the chain is being fed to the sprocket on the tensioner side. Since the cam has lobes along with followers and springs which press against it, the effort to turn the cam sprocket varies. If you have turned the cam without the chain connected it will go from hard to turn to where it will snap forward. If the chain is loose, this snapping forward momemtum will affect valve timing and make the "death rattle" noise. So to sum it up, I used shims and a spacer on the tensioner to tighten my chain, but at low idle when hot with the crazy cam I run it still makes some noise. Makes the motor sound like it is worn out but gives the coffee can cars a big suprise!