Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Draining and inspecting the tank is a 30 minute job and will make things easier quickly. Remove inspection plate in trunk, remove wires from fuel sender, move turn sender retainer 1/4 turn. Remove sender. Inspect contents of tank with pen light. If there is gas in the tank (or varnish as the case may now be...) spin the plug out of the bottom of the tank and collect fuel in a series of ice cream buckets. Disconnect fuel line at filter and blow with compressed air back into the tank. Stick plastic vacuum hose into the tank and suck out any debris. You should be able to snap a decent picture of the pick up with your phone to see what kind of shape the tank is in... Even with limited experience, this is a quick and easy process and should be one of the first steps in getting her running... Good Luck!

I agree with pebbles - matching numbers is great on a premium resto, but a good running U20 in a decent driver is still a valuable car.

To get a good image from inside the tank....I used the corner of my iphone 6 with flash on and snapped a great clear picture.

UPDATE ON ORPHANED ROADSTER!!!
Hello again everyone. Thanks for your input and encouragement to move forward with evaluating and reviving this sweet little car!
I checked the plugs, changed the oil and filter, and engine fired right up. Don't worry, I disconnected the fuel line from the tank so there was no chance she'd drink varnished swill. She liked being “bottle-fed” AvGas! I cleaned her up and she looks ready for the road. Sadly, the fuel tank is caked with rust soup and the brake master cylinder is shot. When I announced my findings to the previous owner’s children, they recalled him complaining about the brakes and all agreed it was what ultimately “grounded” the roadster in the garage in 2003.
I did find the service records!(Because he served as an Air Force helicopter pilot, I just knew that there would be a folder of records somewhere). The records show that from the time he bought it (in 1990) to the time he parked it for the final time (in 2003), he put less than 2,000 miles on it. This made sense as he was away much of the time and only drove the car locally. It was purchased solely for fun.
His children said that he rarely – if ever - turned a wrench on the car as he was no mechanic and always took to the shop even for the most minor of tasks. The service records certainly reflect that.
Most notably, the engine, clutch, transmission, emergency brake system were all rebuilt less than a month after he purchased the car. A year later, a whole new muffler/exhaust system. The very last thing that was done was a new fuel pump was installed. In between was the usual assortment of suspension services, tune-ups, new tires, oil changes, etc. I took the liberty of entering all the records into a spreadsheet just in case someone wants to mull them over.
I have included some photos of her all gussied up. The children want very much to sell this roadster so that they can move on and finalize their father’s estate.
I would greatly appreciate any help you can provide in placing a fair asking price on this little beastie.
Again, here are some of the basics:
-Year/Model: 1968 2000
-Title: Clean, Nevada
-VIN# SRL311-03845 (ID tag on firewall and frame rail are the same)
-Engine# U20-12133 locally on the engine itself (ID tag on firewall and engine do no match)
-When purchased in 8/1990, had CA Certif of Non-op dated 4/1981 Odometer: 67,730
-When parked in 2003 Odometer: 69,556 – total 1,826 miles
-The engine, clutch, and trans have less than 2000 miles on a rebuild.
-Looks like there was (since repaired) hood, and passenger side front fender. Fellow 311 group member Todd Wilson was kind enough to take a look at it and noted that the grill and fender had been replaced with versions from an (earlier?) model.
-The dashboard top is crackled and is currently covered by a “carpeted” version.
-There is a like new full tonneau cover and convertible top. The hard top is not the original, rounded-factory version but is the popular, period-correct version and is in very decent shape.
-Again, the master cylinder needs to be replaced/rebuilt and the fuel system (other than the fuel pump that runs like a top) needs an overhaul.

Damn! That's a beauty. I'd get all the bugs worked out and keep it. Looks close to ready to go to Shasta.

Thanks Roman, it is a sweet little thing. It certainly tugs at my "strings", but I have too many irons in the fire and have been strictly forbidden by my better half from bringing this orphaned puppy home. I sure need help on figuring a fair asking price. Any thoughts?

Sell something else

Etype63 wrote: I sure need help on figuring a fair asking price. Any thoughts?

No brakes no fuel. Really knocks it down imho. Could probably double the $$ with brakes and a clean fuel tank, (driver). As is, needs to be priced out of the dismantlers budget at $4500. Ask $5500

Hi all! Holy smokes this roadster has generated a TON of interest. You guys have a better network than the NSA!!!

I have received questions about the rust the car has. I did take some pics when I first visited the car. Hope you can figure out what is what. One pic is of the rust damage behind the passenger side rear wheel and the other pics is the rust damage behind the driver's side passenger side rear wheel. Both of those pics were taken from inside the trunk area. The rest are general pics that could be useful to someone. I did not "run" a magnet over the body looking for issues that might be under the paint.

I added four gallons of unlead to the fuel tank just to see if it leaks (it doesn't). But like I said in the prevous post, it is rust "soup" in there.

Thanks again for getting the word out. At this rate, we'll get this beastie "adopted" out to a good home in no time!

Hello I would like to talk to you about your roaster
Please call 904-502-2789

Thanks to the efforts and input from everyone in this thread, the little roadster got adopted into a good home. You all are superstars!