EI Distributor Help
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EI Distributor Help
Hi all,
Alright i am a little lost on this one and could really use your guys/gals knowledge. I recently installed a new EI distributor from east coast roadster and am having a few issues. I have followed all the directions to the T and i have got it running with the new distributor. Once i get it started and move the distributor towards the R marking and get it to 16 btdc with the timing light it runs smooth or least i think so but once i shut it off it wont start again until i move the distributor all the way back to the A marking at which point the marking on the balancer is way past the timing marker on the casing. It does not backfire at all. Cranking it over seems normal not hard. I tested the wires running from the coil to EI module and they tested good. I have double checked all the connections and reconfirmed the spark gap. I also checked to make sure the small oblong on the distributor drive is facing forward when engine is on TDC. Firing order is set to 1342. Not really sure where to look at this point. Has anyone else had this issue? Is there something im missing somewhere?
Thanks,
Shane
Alright i am a little lost on this one and could really use your guys/gals knowledge. I recently installed a new EI distributor from east coast roadster and am having a few issues. I have followed all the directions to the T and i have got it running with the new distributor. Once i get it started and move the distributor towards the R marking and get it to 16 btdc with the timing light it runs smooth or least i think so but once i shut it off it wont start again until i move the distributor all the way back to the A marking at which point the marking on the balancer is way past the timing marker on the casing. It does not backfire at all. Cranking it over seems normal not hard. I tested the wires running from the coil to EI module and they tested good. I have double checked all the connections and reconfirmed the spark gap. I also checked to make sure the small oblong on the distributor drive is facing forward when engine is on TDC. Firing order is set to 1342. Not really sure where to look at this point. Has anyone else had this issue? Is there something im missing somewhere?
Thanks,
Shane
- Linda
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Re: EI Distributor Help
Assuming the distributor is installed correctly with the spiral gear at the correct orientation, you should only need to adjust the underneath bolt on the dizzy to get to 16 deg BTDC. The "octane" screw going from "R to A" should be set to 0 for your initial setting. If you run out of adjustment with the underneath bolt to get to 16 with your timing light, then you may be a tooth off on the distributor install with the spiral gear. It can be rather finicky to get correct and is the key to success.
Hope that helps, lots of similar threads to illustrate.
In the Tech Wiki, the Install Distributor document lists 1235 for the orientation of the gear, but it has traditionally been 1125, and that is what I have always used.
Linda
Hope that helps, lots of similar threads to illustrate.
In the Tech Wiki, the Install Distributor document lists 1235 for the orientation of the gear, but it has traditionally been 1125, and that is what I have always used.
Linda
Sadly-Linda has passed away 2022. She was the 311's den mother and drove the first Rare-Parts ball joint project. RIP.
- Gregs672000
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Re: EI Distributor Help
Are you using vacuum advance, and if so WHERE are you pulling vacuum? If off the manifold, that is backwards. If off the carb (specific fitting for that BTW) that is correct.
Greg Burrows
'67 2000 #588
Tacoma, WA
'67 2000 #588
Tacoma, WA
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Re: EI Distributor Help
It's pulling vacuum from a fitting on the carb, back carb on top close to the manifold but not the manifold.
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Re: EI Distributor Help
The gear is in the 12:35 position when I tried the 11:25 the timing mark on the pulley was way past the pointer and I couldn't get it to 16btdc.
- Linda
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Re: EI Distributor Help
Was the "octane" selector at 0 when you tried the 1125 setting for the gear and subsequent timing attempt?
Linda
Linda
Sadly-Linda has passed away 2022. She was the 311's den mother and drove the first Rare-Parts ball joint project. RIP.
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Re: EI Distributor Help
Yes both times i started it out at O
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Re: EI Distributor Help
Sure sounds like you're a tooth off.
When you set the distributor, you need to reach down to the slot in the oil pump and turn it so that when you drop the distributor in place and the drive rotates into place, the shaft tang drops into the oil pump slot and has the dizzy at about 11:30.
It's a pita. Once in 10 times I can do it without fiddling around.
Only other thing I can think of it 180 degrees out but it doesn't sound like that's the case.
Getting the dizzy set to the right spot so everything comes together is key. It's gotta be right, there is no "close".
Dan
When you set the distributor, you need to reach down to the slot in the oil pump and turn it so that when you drop the distributor in place and the drive rotates into place, the shaft tang drops into the oil pump slot and has the dizzy at about 11:30.
It's a pita. Once in 10 times I can do it without fiddling around.
Only other thing I can think of it 180 degrees out but it doesn't sound like that's the case.
Getting the dizzy set to the right spot so everything comes together is key. It's gotta be right, there is no "close".
Dan
SPL311 aka Skooter. Sold. Now wasting away in the SF area.
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1990 Nissan 300zx. Sold this one too.
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- dbrick
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Re: EI Distributor Help
first question, unless I missed it, 1600 or 2000 and was it running OK before the distributor change? Over retarded timing usually starts very easily compared to over advanced, advancing it to start sounds odd.
So normally you would set the timing like any other car, vacuum off, idle speed as low as you can, approx 750rpm and use the mark on the crank to get 16btdc. The difference on a roadster is at this point, you loosen both clamping bolts and move the octane pointer to zero. If we leave the octane pointer out of the equation and just set the timing, assuming everything else is correct, it should all work. At the point you get it running, have you driven the car, is it running OK? If you accelerate the engine, does it advance?
Possible problems I can think of or things to check:
Harmonic balancer slipped (U20)or for another reason the timing mark is not really at TDC when it says it is, easy to verify with a wooden dowel down the spark plug hole, #1 piston at the top, timing mark aligned with TDC.
Firing order 1-3-4-2 counter clockwise, #1 cylinder is the front one, time engine from front cylinder.
So normally you would set the timing like any other car, vacuum off, idle speed as low as you can, approx 750rpm and use the mark on the crank to get 16btdc. The difference on a roadster is at this point, you loosen both clamping bolts and move the octane pointer to zero. If we leave the octane pointer out of the equation and just set the timing, assuming everything else is correct, it should all work. At the point you get it running, have you driven the car, is it running OK? If you accelerate the engine, does it advance?
Possible problems I can think of or things to check:
Harmonic balancer slipped (U20)or for another reason the timing mark is not really at TDC when it says it is, easy to verify with a wooden dowel down the spark plug hole, #1 piston at the top, timing mark aligned with TDC.
Firing order 1-3-4-2 counter clockwise, #1 cylinder is the front one, time engine from front cylinder.
Dave Brisco
Take my advice, I'm not using it"
66 2000 The Bobster
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Re: EI Distributor Help
What is the idle RPM before you change the timing, and after?
"When all else fails, force prevails!" Ummm, we're gonna need a bigger hammer here.
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65 Impala Convertible
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Re: EI Distributor Help
It is a 2000 and yes it was running well before the change. I might be confused with advancing and retarding the timing, when the dizzy is set all the way to the A marking it starts right up, if your looking at the engine from the front the timing mark is way to the left of the pointer. When i move the dizzy back to the R marking that timing mark moves to the right of the pointer if that makes any since. I will check tdc again tomorrow and take pictures so hopefully something stands out. Thank you everyone thus far for all your help!
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Re: EI Distributor Help
Ok all here are some pictures so hopefully something stands out that i am missing.
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Re: EI Distributor Help
I do not know what the RPM is before or after. The tach doesn't work in the car and I don't know of another way to read it. I have the idle set to as low as i can make it without the engine dying though.
- Linda
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Re: EI Distributor Help
To me it appears that the rotor is not lined up with the number #1 cap terminal exactly. A little hard to tell but you might recheck. Your mark on the pulley looks like TDC. So that leaves the spiral gear being oriented too far. Or at least I would recheck the 1125 orientation choice again to see if it puts the rotor pointing right at the terminal a little better, and/or you get a better timing adjustment in the approx middle of the slot where the underneath bolt is.
Linda
Linda
Sadly-Linda has passed away 2022. She was the 311's den mother and drove the first Rare-Parts ball joint project. RIP.
- msampsel
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Re: EI Distributor Help
Assuming your engine should be timed at 16 deg BTDC (before Top Dead Center) Your large notch (TDC) (when timed correctly) should be to the left of the pointer, other marks (5,10,15 or 20 deg BTDC Before TDC) on the pulley should line-up with the pointer.Shanko wrote:It is a 2000 and yes it was running well before the change. I might be confused with advancing and retarding the timing, when the dizzy is set all the way to the A marking it starts right up, if your looking at the engine from the front the timing mark is way to the left of the pointer. When i move the dizzy back to the R marking that timing mark moves to the right of the pointer if that makes any since. I will check tdc again tomorrow and take pictures so hopefully something stands out. Thank you everyone thus far for all your help!
As you retard the timing (turn the dizzy CCW to the R mark) this delays when the rotor lines up with the plug wire and then the mark at TDC should move towards the right of the pointer because now the firing is occurring After TDC (remember the pulley rotates CW and the Dizzy is CCW).
When timed correctly, the pointer should line up with the white arrow which is 15 or degrees to the right of the big notch with white on it. And this big notch should be to the left of the pointer. Hope I have this right I think I do.
Make sure you have it timed correctly and all should be well.
67 1600 (Mods only a mother could love)
78 911 SC Targa (Severe Oversteer but still loved)
78 911 SC Targa (Severe Oversteer but still loved)