So, what should you do when your car is running better than ever? Normal folks would just drive, but idiot Scorpios like myself screw with it until an eye opening mistake happens.
So, after adjusting my valve lash in my 1600. I start the motor and clackity clack, clack, crap! give me a gun so I can shoot my other self. After many hours It's driveable. But in need of an expirienced touch.
Please, if you live in seattle, tacoma, or whatever, please!! We need your help.
So here come the questions,
How do you properly adjust "#4 open, adjust #1\ #3 open adjust # 2" and still follow firing order?
Which valve should be on the backside of the cam lobe? The one your actually adjusting? or the one that your opening to make your adjustment?
Somebody please give me a good step by step procedure. And not just another link to the faqs.
Many many thanks
Dustin
Valve Lash disaster please help
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DatsunBucky
- Roadsteraholic
- Posts: 665
- Joined: Sun Jan 19, 2003 6:09 pm
- Location: Taylorsville, UT
I'll take a stab at this, albeit from memory.
With the 1600, it's a little harder than with an OHC because you can't readily see the cam. I'm not sure exactly what you mean by your last statement.
Here's what I remember doing: Make sure the handbrake is set and/or block the wheels and the trans is in neutral. Take all the spark plugs out and rotate the crank by wrench (IIRC, I used to rotate the engine over by grabbing the fan blades and putting some extra tension on the fanbelt if needed) until the #1 piston is just about at the top of its travel and the distributor rotor is pointing at #1. This is close to Top Dead Center on the firing stroke. It doesn't have to be exactly TDC but needs to be fairly close. Both valves will be closed for the spark plug firing so the pushrods should both be loose.
Adjust the valves for whatever lash you want (I don't have the lash setting readily available but I guess you do). When #1 is done, continue to rotate the crank clockwise (looking at the front of the engine) until the rotor travels 90 degrees. Piston #3 should now be near the top of its travel. Repeat the lash setting and rotate another 90 degrees until #4 is at the top. Repeat and rotate until #2 is at the top. Repeat and you should be done unless you want to go through the procedure again to double check your work.
An alternative would be to adjust #1 exhaust and work your way down the rockers, rotating a little and adjusting those that become loose as the crank turns, but it's easy to get sidetracked and forget which ones you've done and which you haven't. Following the firing order allows you to walk away and know where you were when you come back.
Too many people look upon working on their car as a chore. Maybe it's a "Zen" thing, but unless I was in some sort of hurry, I looked at valve and carb adjustment and other tune-up procedures as a way for me to connect with the car. Call me a weido, but sometimes I think that mechanical things do have a soul and can sense our feelings toward them. Think they don't know when we're washing them and taking care of them? Caressing their bodies with wax?? Oops, better not go there...
Anyway, same thing with changing tires at an autocross. I used to use that time as a way to put my "game face" on and get the mental part of my driving started. I think it paid off.
With the 1600, it's a little harder than with an OHC because you can't readily see the cam. I'm not sure exactly what you mean by your last statement.
Here's what I remember doing: Make sure the handbrake is set and/or block the wheels and the trans is in neutral. Take all the spark plugs out and rotate the crank by wrench (IIRC, I used to rotate the engine over by grabbing the fan blades and putting some extra tension on the fanbelt if needed) until the #1 piston is just about at the top of its travel and the distributor rotor is pointing at #1. This is close to Top Dead Center on the firing stroke. It doesn't have to be exactly TDC but needs to be fairly close. Both valves will be closed for the spark plug firing so the pushrods should both be loose.
Adjust the valves for whatever lash you want (I don't have the lash setting readily available but I guess you do). When #1 is done, continue to rotate the crank clockwise (looking at the front of the engine) until the rotor travels 90 degrees. Piston #3 should now be near the top of its travel. Repeat the lash setting and rotate another 90 degrees until #4 is at the top. Repeat and rotate until #2 is at the top. Repeat and you should be done unless you want to go through the procedure again to double check your work.
An alternative would be to adjust #1 exhaust and work your way down the rockers, rotating a little and adjusting those that become loose as the crank turns, but it's easy to get sidetracked and forget which ones you've done and which you haven't. Following the firing order allows you to walk away and know where you were when you come back.
Too many people look upon working on their car as a chore. Maybe it's a "Zen" thing, but unless I was in some sort of hurry, I looked at valve and carb adjustment and other tune-up procedures as a way for me to connect with the car. Call me a weido, but sometimes I think that mechanical things do have a soul and can sense our feelings toward them. Think they don't know when we're washing them and taking care of them? Caressing their bodies with wax?? Oops, better not go there...
Anyway, same thing with changing tires at an autocross. I used to use that time as a way to put my "game face" on and get the mental part of my driving started. I think it paid off.
Bucky
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itsa68
- Roadsteraholic
- Posts: 823
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2004 11:24 am
- Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba,Canada
- Model: 1500/1600
- Year: High Windshield-68-70
Here is a little 2 column chart I use that should help you keep track of things.
I usually adjust the intakes 1st in the firing order and then the
exhaust valves, so I've listed them in the 1,3,4,2 firing order.
When a cam lobe is pointing up, its associated valve will be fully opened (depressed by rocker). The right hand column cam lobe will be pointing down at the same time and be in the position to allow you to adjust its associated valve (.017" clearance).
At the top of the left hand column draw picture of a cam lobe
pointing straight up.
At the top of the right hand column draw a picture of a cam lobe
pointing straight down.
FULLY OPENED VALVE..... l......... ADJUST THIS VALVE
IN1.......l.......IN4
IN3.......l.......IN2
IN4.......l.......IN1
IN2.......l.......IN3
EX1.......l.......EX4
EX3.......l.......EX2
EX4.......l.......EX1
EX2.......l.......EX3
Hope its helps.
Ray B.
I usually adjust the intakes 1st in the firing order and then the
exhaust valves, so I've listed them in the 1,3,4,2 firing order.
When a cam lobe is pointing up, its associated valve will be fully opened (depressed by rocker). The right hand column cam lobe will be pointing down at the same time and be in the position to allow you to adjust its associated valve (.017" clearance).
At the top of the left hand column draw picture of a cam lobe
pointing straight up.
At the top of the right hand column draw a picture of a cam lobe
pointing straight down.
FULLY OPENED VALVE..... l......... ADJUST THIS VALVE
IN1.......l.......IN4
IN3.......l.......IN2
IN4.......l.......IN1
IN2.......l.......IN3
EX1.......l.......EX4
EX3.......l.......EX2
EX4.......l.......EX1
EX2.......l.......EX3
Hope its helps.
Ray B.