70 SRL fuel line system with emissions removed

[Datrock]

I'm at a point with my 70 srl in which it's time for putting fuel in the tank. I have a non-emissions 1600 in it. I know the 70 models are different from others I am not totally familiar with the setup or changes from the 69 model to the 70. I know there is a vapor tank and the fuel system is a closed system to reburn the fuel vapors. I do not know the proper routing of the vapor lines in the trunk area.. Can someone clue me in on the changes or how they modified the 70 after emissions removal.
My engine compartment emission parts are removed. The car came with a chrome gas cap, different from my other's, no lock, are the 70's gas cap different?. I have the vapor tank installed but only one hose is hooked up going thru the trunk floor another hole has nothing going thru it and there is no line going from the filler tube to the vapor tank. My fuel return line is hooked up at the motor to for the excess to back to the tank. The 3rd line for vapors is open at the engine compartment and I don't know what I should do with it.
Do I just plug off this 3rd line or does it need to be vented into the carb system. If I plug it off do I need to change my gas cap and filler tube to a 68-69 type. Or should I remove everything and install a tank from a 68/69 car and use the lock type cap/filler tube that will allow venting.
I guess I'm worried about pressure build up by using the sealed gas cap and removing the emissions... Thanks... Bill

[spl310]

The 70 had the nonlocking chrome cap as standard equipment. To put the earlier cap on, you have to change the filler neck. I may have one floating about if you need it. As for the vapor recovery stuff, you can just remove it. If you have the fuel return valve on the rear carb, there is no performance penalty having it in place. In fact, it is there to help prevent vapor lock, so it is a good thing to keep. Just kind of ugly to me. I hope this helps!

[Datrock]

Hi Sid, I think I'm going to leave the vapor tank in the car, at least for now. Thanks for the offer on the filler spout but I already have an extra one from a parts car.

Still not sure how the routing of the hoses in the trunk are, so I connected a line from the filler spout to the top of the vapor tank and the line coming from the bottom of the vapor tank is going thru the hole on the drivers side of the trunk, nothing to connect to so I am just dumping it out as a drain if needed. Hope this is right.

The good news is srl 14025 is now moving on it's own power for the first time in over 20+ years. I drove it up and down the Lane I live on and only used first and second gear. I still need to re-bleed the brakes. It feels like it has the stiff 2000 pressure plate, which I was hoping for.

I did notice that my front bleeders wanted to seep fluid out the bleeder top. They were very tight when I went to bleed them, now I now why. I had to use a 11mm socket on a 3/8 ratchet to break them loose, luckily that all that broke. If I remember right there is a small ball bearing in there and it's probable not seating, might be rusty.

I also need to redo my 4 spd shift lever setup, don't ask. I made one to keep from having to cut the tunnel so I can keep the 5 spd shifter location for the future transplant back to a U20/5spd. I am just happy to get the car moving again... Bill