Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Hello,

It is my first post here, so please be easy on me...

Long time owner of MG with MG Midget and B. Still have them but want something different and I have run across a 1969 Datsun 1600. The car run and drive but as per pictures, it's seen like to have lot of rusts which concern me.

Few questions.is $1500 a fair price for this car if it runs?
How is easy to work on it? I have no issue with MG or any car that does not require ECU to run?
How hard ti find parts for it?
What do I need to look for trouble spot when I see the car today?

Thanks for your help.
Mike

First, welcome to one of the best car groups on the internet!
Second, welcome to potential ownership of the Datsun 311.
You've probably already researched the car's history, first out in 1962, last sold in 1970.
I started on a '66 Austin-Healey and share some of your enthusiasm for the British version of this car. -----

Looks like rust will be your biggest concern on this baby. Based on some of the body features in the photos, this is actually a 1968, titled as a 1969, which was common practice back then. That's the sort of thing you'll need to know come parts buying time. My first 311 that I bought 40 years ago was also a '68 titled as a '69.

In my opinion, $1500 to get into a running 311 is a good price. But the next question is what are your plans? If you're planning a full restoration, my experience suggests researching and finding a more expensive example in better condition. It's cheaper for a buyer to acquire a seller's investment in good work and a more solid car.

If this car is intended to be a driver, say, to get you into a new brand and model of vintage sports car, then it looks like it'll be a good example to learn first-hand all about the 311. But, if you won't be doing the work on your own (as with, perhaps, you did regarding the MGs), I'm back to the idea of finding a more solid example to start with. The purchase price would be higher, but as a Grand Sum you may spend less getting it to the roadworthy and cosmetic condition you envision.

Your timing is good. If you buy this car, do just enough to make it safe and roadworthy for this summer, drive it as much as time permits, then decide what you want to do. There's a huge file of testimony from people wishing they'd bonded with their car to help (or prevent!) pouring project money into it.

Hi Paul,
Thanks so much for your response. My hobby is to work on vintage cars and I do have access to all tools i.e welder, compressor, spray gun and I do my own work. So, there will be no one else working on this car except me.

My plan for this car is to restore it to drive able condition only where I will fix everything including painting the car. However, it will not be show room condition.

What would you recommend for me to look at the car today? Rust, rust and more rust?

Thanks,
Mike

If you're headed over to look at it, I'd have a look at the engine & mechanicals. That's your expertise already, and here are a few things I would suggest checking. At $1500 you can scale your expectations accordingly (low risk of disappointment), and also use your available time most effectively.

So, you say it runs. That doesn't mean it moves, and it doesn't mean if it moves it can stop. Checklist follows. If you're planning on trailering it home, adjust the amount of time accordingly. But if you plan to try to drive it (been there! done that!) here's some typical stuff, you'll probably find it familiar. I will treat this like you're gonna drive it home.

You have to decide whether problems in the following areas could become a good reason to make a lower offer on the asking price.

Brakes. Not only look at the condition of the fluid in the dual circuit master, but see if the bleeder ports on the front calipers might be too rusty to crack open. Same for the rear drums, I've seen some really rusty bleeders that won't budge. The clutch hydraulics include a slave cylinder on the side of the gearbox, on the oil filter side of the block. Engine off and tires blocked, have the seller operate the clutch pedal and observe if the shift tang moves.

Lift the front and spin the front wheels, listening for wheel bearing rumble. This also gives you a chance to shake the wheels & check for slop in the front end.

Gas tank. If this car has been sitting a while with ethanol in it, that corn crap will probably have started to rust the tank. Look at the gas filter on the passenger front corner of the engine bay. It's not the kind you can see through very well, but if it's loaded with a sandlike substance, that's tank sediment and rust. It could be bad enough to fill the filter and stop the flow somewhere between here and home (been there, done that!).

Radiator. This one's somewhat strange. Don't open the cap in front of the valve cover right away. Open the one on the expansion tank, and sniff for any aroma suggesting exhaust fumes or petrochemical. That, plus oily streaks in the coolant, indicate a leaking head gasket. The R16 engine has an aluminum head and a cast iron block, and they expand and contract differently across the temperature range. Not regularly torquing the head can lead to leaks, loss of coolant, and overheating, which can warp the cylinder head. If it all looks and smells okay, and the coolant level is about halfway up, then stop there until you fire it up. The cap in front of the valve cover seals only with a flat rubber washer, which takes a set over the years. When you take the cap off, chances are good you'll create a leak. You can, as a temporary measure, compress the tangs on the cap just a little to get a tighter fit.

Those wheels and tires look rather weathered. We brought a set with us, but that could mess up your ride too.

Overall purchase decision, for me, would rest on just how badly it's rusted. That stuff never stops, and the few structurally critical areas are hard to see without spending time getting around under there. Fortunately, this car has a body-on-frame, not unibody, so the rust I see in the fenders would not, in and of itself, necessarily kill the deal.

Good luck!

Rust is basically repairable everywhere on the body depending on your skill. Panels are available, but not cheap. The rocker sills typically contain hidden rust, this is usually most intricate to fix in the area behind the front fender and at the front of the door post. Floorboards are available from several vendors. I would steer clear of frame rust if anywhere other than on the top of the frame. The 1600 is a bullet proof motor, and is very easy to replace with another one from a swapper, they pop up in running condition often and cheap. Otherwise they are not too expensive to rebuild. You need to decide up front if you want a 2000 - you cans swap motors or hold out and get another car altogether. Lots of vendor support these cars and the amount of "unobtanium parts" is fairly limited. That said, parts are getting more expensive. Personally I find these cars VERY easy to work on, and there is not a better support forum than this one right here. Good luck with the inspection, and we look forward to having you as a member here, whether with this one or another choice!

Thanks for all of your information.

Mike

Wow, do we not have the best members on this site!? The detailed instructions and insight given by you guys makes me proud to be part of this group! We didn't even give him shit for being an MG guy !
Welcome Mike, we look forward to converting you!

Interesting car, everyone above gave great advise. I'll add looka t the wiring under the dash, for mouse or bad repairs. The electrical stuff is usually fine and low chance it's caught fire. Had to get the MG jab in there.
One factor is where are you and/or the car located? Salt or no salt is a big factor on the body and how bad the rust is you can't see, and depending on where you are there may be a local Datsun hoarder who can get you going on parts. If it runs and drives for $1500.00 and you can get it safely on the road for another $1000.00, then go for it, worse case you can Ebay it and get a better restoration candidate or it can become the donor car.

Thanks every one for your advise. I went to see the car earlier (2 hours drive noth of Seattle). Engine has 88k mile on it. It runs and shift well. However, brakes are seized (have to use hand brake to stop the car).

It was seating outside for about 10 years and because of that it is a rust bucket. I don't know how much or how easy to get parts for it. So, I told him I will think about this and get back to him. I probably pass on it unless some of the members here can convince me to get it

Here are more pictures of the car.

Mike

Great load of pictures. Lots for feedback, none of underneath the car? Brakes will run you upwards of $1000 to do the whole system new stock, but if you get anything in this price range, brakes are going to be a probability. You may be able to get by with rebuilds of all hydraulics, but if it has been sitting that long I would not hold my breath.It does seem to be complete, with all the trim bits and I like the steelies and hubcaps. I have seen worse rust, but it is not a project I would tackle anyway - I don't do welding unfortunately. There is a lot to like, and if he would negotiate, I think it would be a good donor car at least, if not a driver candidate. To me it comes down to your comfort and skill level, if you are doubting it based on rust, then pass and keep looking.

No rust underneath the car. Basically, unibody/frame is good withour any rust. No leak at master/clutch cylinders that I can see. The whole brake system need to be rebuilt like you said. I will wait few more days and probably ask if he can sell this for $1000. Otherwise, I will move on and look for another one.

Back to your comment earlier about the MG wiring. I totally agree, it is worst and I had first hand experience with my wiring caught fire while driving on interstate 5. Since then, I replaced the wiring and converted it from LHD to RHD. Just 2 pictures to show you the wiring.

Mike

He has accepted my offer of $1000 delivered to my house. Currently tentatively schedule on this coming Wednesday. I think it is a good deal for this car with running, driving, brand new battery and having a hard top for 1 grand.

Looking forward to be part of this great community an to learn from all of you about Datsun Roadster.

Mike

Contact Ted H and get on the DROPS list if you are in the Seattle area. Tons of great guys.

What is the DROPS list and who is Ted? I just join the forum yesterday

Mike

DROPS=Datsun Roadster Owners of Puget Sound and this Ted-

http://311s.org/phpBB3/memberlist.php?m ... file&u=881

I am in Kenmore, where in Seattle will you keep your roadster?