Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

For anyone who is in the unenviable position of needing to undo the crank pulley bolt while the engine in the car, this might help.

Prior to my planed timing cover removed, I did some research on this site and found that people were either putting the car in 1st and having someone stand on the brakes Or dropping the pan and wedging the crank with wood. I did't want to put excessive strain on my transmission or get splinters and grit in my crankcase ( not to mention having to deal with jacks and oil pan gaskets)

So here is the amazingly awesome and easy alternative! (that is probably new to only me)
You use a Chain Wrench!!! Raped around the flat part of the pulley, the more you heave on the bolt the tighter the chain gets. I did not experiences slippage or any issues with messing up the timing marks. This method is, unfortunately, not recommended nice newly painted pulleys. Good Luck.

-Aidan

Even works with WP and radiator installed!

Link to tool>>> http://www.amazon.com/Crescent-Chain-Wr ... B000TDGHGY
original idea credit: daddy

Good to know!

If you had difficulty with the "put it in gear/step on brakes" method, it is because of using the wrong gear. If you use 1st, there may be significant "wind up" as you try to loosen the bolt due to the gear ratios and gear lash.

Use 4th gear, which is 1:1 locked transmission. With the E-brake set or an assistant pressing the brakes, the drive-line is set. (only play would be u-joint/rear end) This is very effective.

(This will not work if you clutch is shot, but if that is the case, just go ahead and pull the engine. ) jt

When using this method on a U20, would there be concerns about separating the outer ring from the inner hub on the pulley?

4th gear .....never 1st....for anything, including bump starting.

Never knew that about 4th v. 1st - thx

Datrock wrote:When using this method on a U20, would there be concerns about separating the outer ring from the inner hub on the pulley?

I would think so.

another way to get the bolt off if you already have the oil pan off or plan too is to use a piece of hardwood or a 1- 1/4 inch or so dowel about 12 inches long and wedge it up between the case and the #2 connecting rod end.

gently move the bolt until it wedges up against the wood and stops, then apply your pressure to loosen it up using a 24 inch breaker bar.

comes off like butter. after it is loose make sure you did not leave any wood behind. hardwood should not chip, just dent a little.

just put the wood on the opposite site to retigbten.

Or you could do what I did and forget you had a socket wrench on your crank bolt while setting your valve clearance. Afterwords, go to fire her up......voilà...crank bolt is off. Boom.

GeoffM wrote:Or you could do what I did and forget you had a socket wrench on your crank bolt while setting your valve clearance. Afterwords, go to fire her up......voilà...crank bolt is off. Boom.

+ 1 it spins right off this way. Even when you don't want it too!
Never had this happen on my oversteer car!

If you use a snap-on wrench it may work like a pusher-propeller.

(I want that 911)

msampsel wrote:

GeoffM wrote:Or you could do what I did and forget you had a socket wrench on your crank bolt while setting your valve clearance. Afterwords, go to fire her up......voilà...crank bolt is off. Boom.

+ 1 it spins right off this way. Even when you don't want it too!
Never had this happen on my oversteer car!

Yep on 3 &3.5 L Montero s it was about the only quick way to get the crank bolt out .. a tite socket a breaker bar that would jam on the inner fender ans bump the starter