Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Hey guys
Last year I picked up a 1970 1600 in running condition, not running well but it ran. I drove for a week or so before the rad blew. Since then I have replaced the rad with some ill fitting knock off...replaced the exhaust gasket as it was leaking and repaired a hole in the manifold. After that it would run but whenever it heated up it would not idle and was almost impossible to keep running. It was then I found this forum and the plethora of information it holds! What a gem it is.... Fall was approaching so I decided to yank the engine and start going through it to see how it looked. At the same time I started searching for an upgrade for the old distributor the car had. I ran across this guy who had one and upon my visit learned that he had a 1967.5 2 litre with the solex set up and cam from the factory sitting under a tarp in his garage for 20 years. Needless to say we made a deal and I now have that engine in my garage. It's missing a few parts :flywheel..coolant/thermostat housing...shifter fork for the 5 speed tranny and an exaust manifold.
Anyways now spring is approaching and I really want to get this car on the road for the summer. I'm thinking my best option is to figure out what's going on with the 1600 and drop that back in for the summer while I gather all the parts required for the2 ltr.

So my question is where is the best place to get full gasket sets and related parts for both engines ?

I am out of town for spring break with the family... Upon my return I will register the car and then it's time to seriously get it on the road....just picked up a 1951 Chevrolet 3/4 ton that's a runner and needs a little attention as well but the roadster is my first love so it gets priority !

Looking forward to working with you guys helping me get this little beauty on the road !

Rob

Great find! I vote get the 1600 running and back in the car while you get the U20 sorted out. That is a very valuable engine, so if youdo not know the internal condition, you should probably consider opening it up. Again, it is a very rare engine.

Get the 1600 running.
Many of the parts for a 1600 are available from fork lift dealers. Early H20 engines are based on the R16.

How cool is that! Welcome to the family! The original solex carbs can be tricky so it will be important to learn about how those work, but there is plenty of help here as you know. When or if you tear down the U, if you remove the rocker arms NUMBER EACH ONE so they go back on the same cam lobe, as they have worn a pattern and can damage themselves if not put back on the same cam lobe.
Regarding the "best" place to buy parts, we love ALL our venders, so it's a matter of you visiting their listed sites and talking parts and prices with them. You'll note that there are a few folks here who also offer specialized parts and not the full meal deal, so it never hurts to post a question about something you're looking for. Also, there are NO stupid questions here... Feel free to ask about anything.
Welcome to the Roadster insanity! The little cars are addictive!

Thanks for the reply...I was thinking the the 2 ltr would be the more desired/valuable power plant,what makes the 1600 so valuable ? I did a compression check on the 1600 before I yanked it and one cylinder was about 90 while the other 3 were all around 115. I'm thinking it may have a valve issue and that's why it would not run when hot ?
Anyways I'll keep you all posted.

No, it is the 2 liter that is valuable, the 1600 is almost throwaway as far as value. IT's just easier and cheaper to get running right, while you take your time with the 2 liter. Sorry if I was unclear in declaring the value as belonging to the U20!

What you need to do is go back and get the rest of the 67.5 2000 or post his information so he can pass it along to some who wants to restore her.

The original car was in an accident and had been written off. The fellow I bought the engine from bought it back from the insurance company so he could salvage the motor/tranny.

Thanks for the clarification...that's what I figured

Very hard to know what the compression issue is with a compression test alone. A more definitive test would be a leak down test, but you need a compressor and a few items to be able to do it. Probably not related to the engine NOT running when hot.