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Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2016 4:53 am
by C.Costine
PBJ wrote:
C.Costine wrote:
I often change up what phase I work on to keep it interesting. My current favorite paint removal weapon is a coarse, around #40, flap wheel.
Something like this?
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I've used flap discs, but never flap wheels, I was afraid it would be as hard on the metal as a flap disc is.

I've been using poly carbide discs, which work well but don't last very long.
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No the flaps are horizontal, or mounted at 90 degrees to the one that you show. I also tried the poly carbide strippers but found as you did that they were expensive to use.

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2016 9:51 am
by orangedawg

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2016 10:10 am
by gnob
For the $$$ the HF discs and flappers suuuck.
I've been using dewalt stuff. Significant longevity diff

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2016 10:13 am
by PBJ
gnob wrote:For the $$$ the HF discs and flappers suuuck.
I've been using dewalt stuff. Significant longevity diff
I tried on of the poly carbide discs from dewalt and didn't notice a big difference so I've been using up the $3 version from Harbor Freight instead of the $7 version from Home Depot. I do agree for cutoff wheels and flap discs though, there is a significant difference with those. Have you noticed a difference with the Poly discs? Is there a specific grit or anything, maybe I missed something

I have always liked the flap disc for metal work but I've been apprehensive to use it for paint removal, it'll definitely take metal off quick if you aren't careful

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2016 10:34 am
by Mainer311
Have you guys tried Aircraft paint remover? That stuff will melt paint right off. I sprayed the entire bed of my truck with it, and hosed all the paint right off.

If you go that route, WEAR GLOVES!

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2016 10:53 am
by PBJ
Mainer311 wrote:Have you guys tried Aircraft paint remover? That stuff will melt paint right off. I sprayed the entire bed of my truck with it, and hosed all the paint right off.

If you go that route, WEAR GLOVES!
I've used that, but this thing had so much bondo that I don't really think it would work. I have been joking with my shop mates that whoever did bodywork on this car was trying to scale it up to a larger size!

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Posted: Fri Apr 22, 2016 6:43 pm
by PBJ
Today my mom was visiting from Pennsylvania and she wanted to do a little work on the Datsun. She wasn't messing around either!
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We removed the rest of the original fender and started working on patch steel for the rusty areas.

I now have an Eastwood shrinker/stretcher as well as forming dies for the bead roller. So I figured we could make something work.

We took some time finding the shape with paper and a pencil then moved on to tracing paterns onto some sheet metal. I am using 20g cold rolled for this stuff, it seems to match what's in the car.

With the paterns made we rolled a lip, rolled a flare then used a hammer and dolley to fold over the lip the rest of the way.
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The car now has quite a few patch panels made, I really need to start cutting and fitting them!

I'll be racing the next weekend or two but I'm really excited to get these panels fit and welded

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Posted: Fri Apr 22, 2016 6:47 pm
by JohnnyMac
Too cool. Just think of all the things you could get her for Mother's Day!

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Posted: Fri Apr 22, 2016 11:37 pm
by PBJ
JohnnyMac wrote:Too cool. Just think of all the things you could get her for Mother's Day!
My mom loves trying new things and this is definitely one of them. I have actually driven a tank with my mom in the past so she is pretty adventurous!

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2016 12:26 pm
by PBJ
Well, before my mom left she did two things, first, she helped repair the race car...
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Second she got me a birthday present! Looks like I have a lot to learn!
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Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2016 4:37 pm
by dynaguy
The poly discs wear very well if you use light pressure and stay away from sharp edges. FWIW Pat

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2016 6:59 pm
by C.Costine
PBJ wrote:Well, before my mom left she did two things, first, she helped repair the race car...

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Second she got me a birthday present! Looks like I have a lot to learn!

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You definitely have a very cool and good looking mom. We now know that you are a very young fellow among us mostly old guys. I have gotten flap wheels from multiple places including the welding supply. That is all they use for cleaning metal on their industrial work. I don't see much difference one brand to another. And of course there is a wide range of grit just as in sandpaper.

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2016 8:19 pm
by dynaguy
The flaps wheels can be made of alumina oxide (usually brown color), zirconia (usually blue/green) or ceramic (red/orange). The alumina oxide are best for mild steel, zirconia take down welds faster and wear longer, ceramic last the longest and are best for alloys. Hogging down hard on any of them develops excessive heat and cause them to prematurely wear. FWIW Pat

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2016 1:41 pm
by PBJ
dynaguy wrote:The poly discs wear very well if you use light pressure and stay away from sharp edges. FWIW Pat
I think it has a lot to do with the sheer amount of bondo that I am going through right now on this car. Though I am hopefully that I have gotten through the bulk of it at this point... time will tell.
C.Costine wrote: You definitely have a very cool and good looking mom. We now know that you are a very young fellow among us mostly old guys. I have gotten flap wheels from multiple places including the welding supply. That is all they use for cleaning metal on their industrial work. I don't see much difference one brand to another. And of course there is a wide range of grit just as in sandpaper.
Well, young is certainly based on your perspective. I'm seeing that 40 mark come up very soon!

I have a stock of #40 flap paddles that I use for metal forming fairly regularly and they hold up nicely to that type of work. I am apprehensive to use them for paint removal... I need something that won't go through the metal if my mind wanders off to another place.
dynaguy wrote:The flaps wheels can be made of alumina oxide (usually brown color), zirconia (usually blue/green) or ceramic (red/orange). The alumina oxide are best for mild steel, zirconia take down welds faster and wear longer, ceramic last the longest and are best for alloys. Hogging down hard on any of them develops excessive heat and cause them to prematurely wear. FWIW Pat
I am pretty sure I have mostly had blue and brown and mostly used them for cleaning up the edges of metal I have cut and light metal shaping as well. Thanks for the info!

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Posted: Sat Apr 30, 2016 3:58 pm
by PBJ
I had a little help today from a good friend. It was time to start cutting in and welding these patch panels that I have been making. I cleaned up the welder and got started.

The first part I tackled today was the rear passenger fender patch. I made this part with my mom a few days ago and had to get it in the car. I made the cuts and did a bit of fitting otherwise before tacking it in place.
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Once it was all ready I welded the rest of it and put a touch of primer on there. I am very pleased with how this came out. It is still very visible as a patch (to me at least) but for the inner fender I think it looks great.
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We moved on to the A pillar, I made this piece a long time ago, but finally actually welded it in.
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Once welded I threw some primer on
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Today was a short day. But I feel like a good amount was accomplished. I still need to fit the footwell panel. That will be next time.