Tach Cable Seals and O-rings, was started as Any good rear main seal oil additives, that work?

[svwilbur]

I finally got some time and jacked up the roadster to look at my oil leak. some may be rear main seal or oil pan gasket but most looks like it is from the tach cable.

I took it off and eventually some oil drips out of the cable end. another older tach cable I had has a plastic washer and a rubber seal sort of thing that mates with it over the drive cable. but it would not fit the new style cable. I do not have the rubber washer thing Dean sells for the end of the cable. I modified the old plastic piece to make it fit and installed the pair onto the cable and reattached it. I will test it tomorrow. I will try to attach some pictures of the drips on lip of front of transmission and the tach cable dripping down to oil runner.

it seems that the leaking started a couple years ago after replacing the tach cable so I was thinking maybe I just need the outer seal on the cable.


what do thise leaks look like to you all?

[svwilbur]

also are those two holes in the bottom of the bellhousing, on either side of the drip, suppose to have bolts in them?

[notoptoy]

Yes, you should have nuts/bolts at the bottom of the transmission to secure the spacer plate.

[msampsel]

I finally got some time and jacked up the roadster to look at my oil leak. some may be rear main seal or oil pan gasket but most looks like it is from the tach cable.

I took it off and eventually some oil drips out of the cable end. another older tach cable I had has a plastic washer and a rubber seal sort of thing that mates with it over the drive cable. but it would not fit the new style cable. I do not have the rubber washer thing Dean sells for the end of the cable. I modified the old plastic piece to make it fit and installed the pair onto the cable and reattached it. I will test it tomorrow. I will try to attach some pictures of the drips on lip of front of transmission and the tach cable dripping down to oil runner.

it seems that the leaking started a couple years ago after replacing the tach cable so I was thinking maybe I just need the outer seal on the cable.


what do thise leaks look like to you all?

If from the tach cable then I'd guess the seal inside on the drive needs repair.

I'd clean everything up and hold a rag or clean towel around the tach cable to confirm it
leaks with the engine running which you seem to have done anyway.
You might get buy with the washer like seal or grommet.

I though it would just keep the oil from running up to fill your tach with oil.

[svwilbur]

I tested the roadster a bit today to see if the plastic washer and "rubber seal" ffrom the NOS cable helped stop the leak. so far so good no drips around the cable. but I only drove it about 12 miles. then I let it sit 4 hours but it is still dry.

maybe it is filling up the cable with oil headed to the tach. time will tell I guess.

[Gregs672000]

I tested the roadster a bit today to see if the plastic washer and "rubber seal" ffrom the NOS cable helped stop the leak. so far so good no drips around the cable. but I only drove it about 12 miles. then I let it sit 4 hours but it is still dry.

maybe it is filling up the cable with oil headed to the tach. time will tell I guess.

I think that is pretty telling and a good sign! Beats the hell out of doing a rear main seal swap (and not fixing it!)

[svwilbur]

I looked at it this morning and there is a little oil drop on the metal stem of the cable. later in the day after it sat a longer time it had moved to the bottom of the large finger twist nut on the cable end. so I need a better nytril rubber washer or seals.

also I can see that there are a couple oil runs started off the rear oil pan gasket onto the steal bellhousing plate below. so I guess I need a new oil pan gasket.

so there are two different leaks, tach cable and oil pan gasket.

[msampsel]

Stacey,

I must print a retraction on my "no leaks" thoughts on my tach seal.

I still seem to have a slow leak. Might be best to take the big nut off the dizzy
housing to replace the inner seal.

See this thread as you have many times.

http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... ks#p232487

[svwilbur]

msampsel - I think that is my plan, to replace the seals inside distributor housing under the big nut. I will live with the leak until after the Solvang meet most likely as I don't want to wreak something and not be able to go.

I also have to wait until tuesday at 10 to try to call Dean's for parts. He is only available tuesday to thursday now 10-3. it seems like I always want to order parts on evenings and weekends so it seems to take forever to get an order in, my fault.

I am too use to 24x7 ordering on amazon and getting stuff in 2 days, but they dont have much for datsun parts! thats about the only thing they don't carry.

[msampsel]

msampsel - I think that is my plan, to replace the seals inside distributor housing u der the big nut. I will live with the leak until after the Solvang meet most likely as I don't want to wreak something and not be able to go.

I also have to wait until tuesday at 10 to try to call Dean's for parts. He is only available tuesday to thursday now 10-3. it seems like I always want to order parts on evenings and weekends so it seems to take forever to get an order in, my fault.

I am too use to 24x7 ordering on amazon and getting stuff in 2 days, but they dont have much for datsun parts! thats about the only thing they don't carry.

Stacey,

Well maybe we can compare leaks at Solvang.
I just got an order in from Dean's and forgot some things so make your list and check it twice is my
advice, I should have checked mine 3 times

Mike

[svwilbur]

I cleaned it up and tried another test run up the road and back 20 miles or so. I got back and lots or oil all over. well more than normal. it pooled on part of engine too.

so I took that plastic piece and rubber thing out from the other cable and went to Napa and looked for a nitrile O-ring to fit tightly inside the finger nut , but on top of the flange on the cable so it sits between the piece you are screwing onto and the flange of the cable. before doing that I had cut a rubber (I think, not nitrile) yup it will disintegrate or mush up but it is just a test. anyways it had a hole for the cable just right and I cut the round width of it to fit inside the hole on the shaft pinion thing you screw onto. that fit in flush and then the o-ring followed by the flange and screw it on really tight to compress the o-ring some.

before tightening up too hard I tried to make sure the flange was centered in the screw-on nut. it has some movement around in there. so centering helps it be aligned on all the circular edge with the o-ring. I used open pliers from the side through the frame hole to tighten it.

I took it for a test drive and came back and no drips anywhere, so far. but it was just a 20 mile run.

much better than before so far.

I can't see how this would be much of any different than the part Dean sells. other than his does not sit in up against the other seals I dont think. im not sure. I dont have one yet.

does his mount so it seals between the flange and the end of the screw-on part or is it smaller and more internal?

anyways if you want to try the o-ring it is a Napa part. 727-2115 line BK o-ring. I bought two for 1.09 out the door. 52 cents apiece. it is just a nitrile o-ring not a washer. it was in an assortment him on a pole numbered 115.

it fits into the cable thumb screw very thightly. I pushed it down with my finger and got it seated against the cable flange.

then you try 5 or 6 times to get the nub lined up with the slot in the pinion side on the mount that you can not see into. but eventuality you get it in and can screw the nut on which pushes the o-ring down and seals against the cable flange and the threaded housing end. that makes a good seal there. before it was just metal on metal.

so it can still push oil up the cable I suppose and maybe come out between the crimped part and the plastic cable housing.

I think that is true for Deans washer seal too as the fit against the cable can not be that tight. oil will go through the hole I think.

I will have to do more testing with it but looks good so far. it hopefully will help me make it to solvang in a few weeks.

[C.Costine]

I cleaned it up and tried another test run up the road and back 20 miles or so. I got back and lots or oil all over. well more than normal. it pooled on part of engine too.

so I took that plastic piece and rubber thing out from the other cable and went to Napa and looked for a nitrile O-ring to fit tightly inside the finger nut , but on top of the flange on the cable so it sits between the piece you are screwing onto and the flange of the cable. before doing that I had cut a rubber (I think, not nitrile) yup it will disintegrate or mush up but it is just a test. anyways it had a hole for the cable just right and I cut the round width of it to fit inside the hole on the shaft pinion thing you screw onto. that fit in flush and then the o-ring followed by the flange and screw it on really tight to compress the o-ring some.

before tightening up too hard I tried to make sure the flange was centered in the screw-on nut. it has some movement around in there. so centering helps it be aligned on all the circular edge with the o-ring. I used open pliers from the side through the frame hole to tighten it.

I took it for a test drive and came back and no drips anywhere, so far. but it was just a 20 mile run.

much better than before so far.

I can't see how this would be much of any different than the part Dean sells. other than his does not sit in up against the other seals I dont think. im not sure. I dont have one yet.

does his mount so it seals between the flange and the end of the screw-on part or is it smaller and more internal?

anyways if you want to try the o-ring it is a Napa part. 727-2115 line BK o-ring. I bought two for 1.09 out the door. 52 cents apiece. it is just a nitrile o-ring not a washer. it was in an assortment him on a pole numbered 115.

it fits into the cable thumb screw very thightly. I pushed it down with my finger and got it seated against the cable flange.

then you try 5 or 6 times to get the nub lined up with the slot in the pinion side on the mount that you can not see into. but eventuality you get it in and can screw the nut on which pushes the o-ring down and seals against the cable flange and the threaded housing end. that makes a good seal there. before it was just metal on metal.

so it can still push oil up the cable I suppose and maybe come out between the crimped part and the plastic cable housing.

I think that is true for Deans washer seal too as the fit against the cable can not be that tight. oil will go through the hole I think.

I will have to do more testing with it but looks good so far. it hopefully will help me make it to solvang in a few weeks.

Yes, Stacy it sounds like you found a way to keep the oil in the cable, but yes it will still be creeping up the cable, and the question is how much will the cable housing hold and how many miles do you have. This is what my post was all about, that while the explanation in the tech wiki is correct, I ordered the seal from one of the vendors, and unfortunately it was way to large to fit inside the housing, and around the pinion shaft where it needs to be. I did quite a bit of searching but have not yet found one, and the pinion housing is still on my work bench.

[msampsel]

I cleaned it up and tried another test run up the road and back 20 miles or so. I got back and lots or oil all over. well more than normal. it pooled on part of engine too.



anyways if you want to try the o-ring it is a Napa part. 727-2115 line BK o-ring. I bought two for 1.09 out the door. 52 cents apiece. it is just a nitrile o-ring not a washer. it was in an assortment him on a pole numbered 115.

it fits into the cable thumb screw very thightly. I pushed it down with my finger and got it seated against the cable flange.

then you try 5 or 6 times to get the nub lined up with the slot in the pinion side on the mount that you can not see into. but eventuality you get it in and can screw the nut on which pushes the o-ring down and seals against the cable flange and the threaded housing end. that makes a good seal there. before it was just metal on metal.

so it can still push oil up the cable I suppose and maybe come out between the crimped part and the plastic cable housing.

I will have to do more testing with it but looks good so far. it hopefully will help me make it to solvang in a few weeks.

Yes, Stacy it sounds like you found a way to keep the oil in the cable, but yes it will still be creeping up the cable, and the question is how much will the cable housing hold and how many miles do you have. This is what my post was all about, that while the explanation in the tech wiki is correct, I ordered the seal from one of the vendors, and unfortunately it was way to large to fit inside the housing, and around the pinion shaft where it needs to be. I did quite a bit of searching but have not yet found one, and the pinion housing is still on my work bench.

@C.Costine Hope it okay to borrow your photos.

Doesn't the seal fit tight on the tach drive?

tach_drive.JPG

And it also has to fit snug inside here too right?

drive_nut.JPG

I can give you the diameter of the seal inside and out I just received if you wish.
The seal is to the left in the photo

2687.1.jpg

[Gregs672000]

It has been too long since I did this, but whatever Dean sells worked perfectly for my problem. It did require disassembling the dizzy mount, removing the big nut etc, but it worked perfectly.

[C.Costine]

I cleaned it up and tried another test run up the road and back 20 miles or so. I got back and lots or oil all over. well more than normal. it pooled on part of engine too.



anyways if you want to try the o-ring it is a Napa part. 727-2115 line BK o-ring. I bought two for 1.09 out the door. 52 cents apiece. it is just a nitrile o-ring not a washer. it was in an assortment him on a pole numbered 115.

it fits into the cable thumb screw very thightly. I pushed it down with my finger and got it seated against the cable flange.

then you try 5 or 6 times to get the nub lined up with the slot in the pinion side on the mount that you can not see into. but eventuality you get it in and can screw the nut on which pushes the o-ring down and seals against the cable flange and the threaded housing end. that makes a good seal there. before it was just metal on metal.

so it can still push oil up the cable I suppose and maybe come out between the crimped part and the plastic cable housing.

I will have to do more testing with it but looks good so far. it hopefully will help me make it to solvang in a few weeks.

Yes, Stacy it sounds like you found a way to keep the oil in the cable, but yes it will still be creeping up the cable, and the question is how much will the cable housing hold and how many miles do you have. This is what my post was all about, that while the explanation in the tech wiki is correct, I ordered the seal from one of the vendors, and unfortunately it was way to large to fit inside the housing, and around the pinion shaft where it needs to be. I did quite a bit of searching but have not yet found one, and the pinion housing is still on my work bench.

@C.Costine Hope it okay to borrow your photos.

Doesn't the seal fit tight on the tach drive?

tach_drive.JPG

And it also has to fit snug inside here too right?

drive_nut.JPG

I can give you the diameter of the seal inside and out I just received if you wish.
The seal is to the left in the photo

2687.1.jpg

Yes, it has to fit inside of the housing in what you might call a shallow groove, and snugly over the shaft, it rides on the discolored place on the shaft. I would love to have on that would fit.