svwilbur wrote:I was searching around and found the original write up on changing out the seal for the distributor pinion housing / tachometer cable. it is a seal not an o-ring.
it also gives some dimensions. but it is a seal so don't try to use an o-ring.
nissan part numbers are listed as 32709-14600 which is really the speedometer seal. they are suppose to be the same seal.
but the online parts site. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/sp ... mounting#1
lists a different number and different price for what they call an ring-o with part number 22180-71200. maybe this is the outer o-ring not the seal we really want?
both part numbers are still available from online nissan parts sites for 1 to 6 dollars.
I will try to order some and replacd mine to treey to eliminate it as a possible source for the leak I have.
I am pleased with the results from the seal kit from Dean.
There are no leaks at my cable!
You can find where I put my seals, rings and fixins at the end of the view topic link.
After I fixed the tach cable leak I still had some oil leaks
Thought it might be rear main seal.
Turns out (fingers crossed) it was from dizzy removal and not tightening (did not want to overtighten)
the oil-feed-line nut (17 and 18 in your link to pics above).
I tightened these slowly with engine running until the leak quit.
67 1600 (Mods only a mother could love)
78 911 SC Targa (Severe Oversteer but still loved)
msampsel. - Thanks for the extra detail and the hint to see the pics at the end of the viewtopic post. I had not seen those before. the bottom most ones seem to point to the correct locations for the seal and O-ring. pictures are worth a thousand words.
now I also will not be too surprised if the gear or shaft may come out with it.
len62 wrote:Actually, there are both....an o-ring nearer the tach cable, and a hard plastic seal on the shaft that sits in Distributor base.
On mine the kit replaces the seal that sits "inside" the shaft (see green arrow). If there is a hard seal on the shaft I
did not replace it. Seems others agree the seal on the shaft (seal in blue text in photo) is not correct.
There are really 3 pieces to the kit Dean sells (item 2687) and I used them all and no more leaks.
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Last edited by msampsel on Sat Feb 13, 2016 6:44 am, edited 1 time in total.
67 1600 (Mods only a mother could love)
78 911 SC Targa (Severe Oversteer but still loved)
svwilbur wrote:msampsel. - Thanks for the extra detail and the hint to see the pics at the end of the viewtopic post. I had not seen those before. the bottom most ones seem to point to the correct locations for the seal and O-ring. pictures are worth a thousand words.
now I also will not be too surprised if the gear or shaft may come out with it.
Hey hope it helps, since my Daughter went to UA and we have a "Wilber" the wild cat ... I feal obligated to help.
67 1600 (Mods only a mother could love)
78 911 SC Targa (Severe Oversteer but still loved)
svwilbur wrote:msampsel. - Thanks for the extra detail and the hint to see the pics at the end of the viewtopic post. I had not seen those before. the bottom most ones seem to point to the correct locations for the seal and O-ring. pictures are worth a thousand words.
now I also will not be too surprised if the gear or shaft may come out with it.
Hey hope it helps, since my Daughter went to UA and we have a "Wilber" the wild cat ... I feal obligated to help.
Thanks for the pix, I was trying to follow but getting confused. It appears there are 4 noted pieces in the photo but only 3 in the kit, is that correct?
svwilbur wrote:msampsel. - Thanks for the extra detail and the hint to see the pics at the end of the viewtopic post. I had not seen those before. the bottom most ones seem to point to the correct locations for the seal and O-ring. pictures are worth a thousand words.
now I also will not be too surprised if the gear or shaft may come out with it.
Hey hope it helps, since my Daughter went to UA and we have a "Wilber" the wild cat ... I feal obligated to help.
Thanks for the pix, I was trying to follow but getting confused. It appears there are 4 noted pieces in the photo but only 3 in the kit, is that correct?
Correct there are only 3 in the kit. Seal goes inside where the green arrow is, o-ring where the red arrow is and the fiber washer goes inside the
tach cable. At least on mine it did. I updated the figure to show where I put 2 of the three things in the kit above.
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67 1600 (Mods only a mother could love)
78 911 SC Targa (Severe Oversteer but still loved)
msampsel wrote:
Hey hope it helps, since my Daughter went to UA and we have a "Wilber" the wild cat ... I feal obligated to help.
Thanks for the pix, I was trying to follow but getting confused. It appears there are 4 noted pieces in the photo but only 3 in the kit, is that correct?
Correct there are only 3 in the kit. Seal goes inside where the green arrow is, o-ring where the red arrow is and the fiber washer goes inside the
tach cable. At least on mine it did. I updated the figure to show where I put 2 of the three things in the kit above.
Do you remove the inside ring with the slot by the green arrow in order to change the seal? If so how do you get it out?
located in Chester NH
1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
Ford F-350 6.0
Ford 9000 puller, Ford 960 puller, Ford 901show, Ford 971 worker, Oliver 70 waiting its turn
I removed the dizzy, and the seal came out with a small hook I think.
Pushed in the new one with a 11 mm socket
Think others made some special tool to remove but a small wooden or plastic hook might be best.
Here is a good writeup from "ist68"
below in blue from the following link.
There are multiple tips in the link.
After careful review I'm fairly sure the o-ring (red pointer in figure) is meant to go on the inside "side" of
the shaft mounting nut in the figure. (different than the figure pointer )
Unscrew the pinion housing nut and the pinion should stay in the distributor base with its shaft sticking out.
On the pinion housing nut you removed, notice that there is an "o-ring" on the threads. This o-ring rarely leaks.
Look inside the counterbored hole on the cable side of the pinion housing nut and you will see the small black oil seal at the very bottom.
The flat side of the oil seal is facing towards you at the cable attachment end of the housing nut (the grooved side faces towards pinion shaft) .
Remove oil seal using dentists pick (or seal hook),using caution as not to scratch inside the housing nut bore. (The seal is pressed in pretty tight to the bore, so it might take some tongue to get it out.)
If you get some minor scratching on the inside you can give it a quick light hone with some 400-600 emery paper and wash of any grit residue.
Put some motor oil/wheel bearing grease on new oil seal and install with grooved side facing towards bottom of the pinion housing nut counterbore.
Use a piece of hardwood dowel (with a squared off end and is same size as the outside diameter of the seal) and push the oil seal into the bottom of the housing nut counterbore until "seal seats square against the bottom of the hole".
Put some oil/grease on the housing nut o-ring and pinion shaft and re-install pinion housing nut to distibutor base.
Re-attach tach cable...and you done and no more leaks.
The speedo cable oil seal at the transmission end (under the 90 degree speedometer adapter) is done in same manner, but if I recall correctly, the pinion shaft wants to drop out when the pinion sleeve is removed.
Ray B.
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67 1600 (Mods only a mother could love)
78 911 SC Targa (Severe Oversteer but still loved)
I removed the dizzy, and the seal came out with a small hook I think.
Pushed in the new one with a 11 mm socket
Think others made some special tool to remove but a small wooden or plastic hook might be best.
Here is a good writeup from "ist68"
below in blue from the following link.
There are multiple tips in the link.
After careful review I'm fairly sure the o-ring (red pointer in figure) is meant to go on the inside "side" of
the shaft mounting nut in the figure. (different than the figure pointer )
Unscrew the pinion housing nut and the pinion should stay in the distributor base with its shaft sticking out.
On the pinion housing nut you removed, notice that there is an "o-ring" on the threads. This o-ring rarely leaks.
Look inside the counterbored hole on the cable side of the pinion housing nut and you will see the small black oil seal at the very bottom.
The flat side of the oil seal is facing towards you at the cable attachment end of the housing nut (the grooved side faces towards pinion shaft) .
Remove oil seal using dentists pick (or seal hook),using caution as not to scratch inside the housing nut bore. (The seal is pressed in pretty tight to the bore, so it might take some tongue to get it out.)
If you get some minor scratching on the inside you can give it a quick light hone with some 400-600 emery paper and wash of any grit residue.
Put some motor oil/wheel bearing grease on new oil seal and install with grooved side facing towards bottom of the pinion housing nut counterbore.
Use a piece of hardwood dowel (with a squared off end and is same size as the outside diameter of the seal) and push the oil seal into the bottom of the housing nut counterbore until "seal seats square against the bottom of the hole".
Put some oil/grease on the housing nut o-ring and pinion shaft and re-install pinion housing nut to distibutor base.
Re-attach tach cable...and you done and no more leaks.
The speedo cable oil seal at the transmission end (under the 90 degree speedometer adapter) is done in same manner, but if I recall correctly, the pinion shaft wants to drop out when the pinion sleeve is removed.
Ray B.
I finally got my eyes on the seal. I didn't have the pinion shaft out of the housing before. I worked at it with a dentist's pick for just a couple minutes, so I will have to go back to it.
Thanks, Colin
located in Chester NH
1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
Ford F-350 6.0
Ford 9000 puller, Ford 960 puller, Ford 901show, Ford 971 worker, Oliver 70 waiting its turn
I still have not tried to get parts yet or looked to see if it is leaking from the tach cable end by the distributor. Maybe this week.
C Costine also has a good write up started on his repair here: http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=25718
to help.
)