Moderators: notoptoy, S Allen, Solex68
if I make it with the datsun, sure, but you may want to use a black glove as I am not sure of anything anymore!msampsel wrote:Stacey,
Will you allow me to do a "white glove" inspection under the cable if
I make it to Saul Vang (practice at spelling it like it sounds)?
... I provide sarcasm for no charge ...
Good heavens I hope not! My father and mother both died at 52, and I'm 50...svwilbur wrote:I need to loose some weight and stuff. seems like each generation is living shorter.
spl310 wrote:Good heavens I hope not! My father and mother both died at 52, and I'm 50...svwilbur wrote:I need to loose some weight and stuff. seems like each generation is living shorter.
Not being there to look, and owning an older car, I can't say for sure but I believe that the line is the distributor lubrication line. The older ones were a smaller diameter metal only line, and perhaps they were subject to cracking from vibration.svwilbur wrote:I finally got to test drive the roadster and check for leaks after doing the tach pinion seals. it looks better. im not sure that it is completely dry.
there is not a drip from the thumb nut or cable but there was some oil residue/ weep on the black cable jacket.
the oil pan seems dry, I did a new gasket on that at the same time.
the oil line that comes down by the tach cable has a drip on it. I dont know if it is leaking or something else. I could only see that one drop on it. and it was dry before the test run.
I did try to tighten those nuts on it a week ago but it seemed pretty snug. I did not want to push my luck.
what is that oil line called?
do you have to make them up or does someone sell those?
do they have to be that curvy shape?
why not just a metal line?
I had mine redone at a hydraulic line company. They had no problem working with my stock parts.svwilbur wrote:yes it is the lube line to the distributor. I was wondering why it was not just metal, vibration is a good possibility. all the curves are funny too.
I think I may have one on another motor that I could try if it looks ok. or maybe sombody makes a new one or similar one?
dbrick,dbrick wrote:The leaks I see the most are the distributor area or the oil passage at the back of the head, it runs down and back and looks like a rear main. Clean it all and recheck to be sure. If it's still a small leak, I'd tolerate the free rust preventative and park on cardboard.
If you're not sure, clean well and spray with spray foot powder. Any leaks leave a track in the powder residue. Cleans off easilly
If it is the rear main, here's food for thought, seems like a great logical fix, and a whole lot easier than pulling the engine.
From a muscle car site, but applies.
The Pontiac factory service bulletin detailed the following fix. I've done it a few times now and it works better than the other methods.
1) Pull the pan and remove the rear main cap only.
2) take a soft brass drift and bump the ends of the seal that remains in the block back up into the block about 3/16 of an inch. This will swell the seal in the block and make it seal tight again.
3) Remove the old seal from the cap and roll in the new seal. When you trim it, use a fresh razor blade and cut the seal about1/4" over long on each side. Use a fresh blade for each cut to make it nice and neat.
4) apply some RTV to each of the cut ends and the parting line. feed the ends into the spaces in the block and torque the cap down.
5) reassembly is reverse of disassembly.
