Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

I'm rebuilding my front brakes on the 67 lady. I have seen referrences to the calipers being different for outter and inner. But for the life of me I can't see a difference. Could some one explain this. And is it possible that the PO messed this up and they are the same.

The inner one has the bleed nipple pointing up and is always on the inside. Check the outer as it has two different fittings for the brake lines. It is important you put the correct lines in the right place. At the 2 1/8 end of the outer calipers( stamped into caliper) this brake line goes to the brass junction block where the rubber flex line meets the block. Send me your email address and I can send some pictures if that helps.

Ross
sports imports
ross.sportsimports@gmail.com.

Don't forget to remove the rubber coating from the brake lines. Great place for rust to hide. Check this site for instructions on removing the pistons, if they don't come out easily.

It looks to me that the bleed nipple one has a 5mm ball bearing otherwise all 4 look the same. Is this true?

nope. The outer cylinder has a different flare at the lower position if you are looking at stock dunlop-sumitomo cylinders.

Read this.

https://kendo-usa.org/datsun/datsunbrakecylinder.pdf

mokid wrote: Thu Apr 23, 2015 9:38 am I'm rebuilding my front brakes on the 67 lady. I have seen referrences to the calipers being different for outter and inner. But for the life of me I can't see a difference. Could some one explain this. And is it possible that the PO messed this up and they are the same.

Curtis' pdf should help. And, yes, it's entirely possible that the PO messed it up. You wouldn't be the first to experience this.

I'm going through my first tear down and rebuild of my complete brake system. Thank you Curtis for the excellent documentation on the process, it's been a huge help.

One thing that I noticed on my 69 was that on both brake hoses to the front calipers, where the hose ends with the steel connector that goes next to the frame, the hose was totally clogged solid. This car sat for a a long time - like 7 years - and the master cylinder needs a major overhaul or replacement. Both of these brake hoses were clogged to the point that even compressed air and brake cleaner wouldn't clear it. I ended up carefully slipping a drill bit down and clearing the block.

One thing that I'm not clear on is the center pin on the cylinders. Are they supposed to be totally tight, or are they designed to be a little loose? Mine are straight but not tight to the cylinder. The rubber seals and inside of the cylinders look remarkably good. Just some brake cleaner and a touch of steel wool to make them look like new. I suspect these may not be original but I have no idea.

One thing I forgot to ask -

I'd like to get a set of the speed bleeders for both fronts and rear, but I'm not sure on what spec to purchase. Searching this forum I came across a recommendation for Goodridge SB7100, which is an M7 x 1.0 size. This is for a 69 SRL311. Can anyone confirm that this size works?

Thanks

Brake cylinders are not metric thread. 3/8-24

If you change to speed bleeder be sure to remove the little ball.
http://www.speedbleeder.com/
SB3824 or stainless SB3824-SS

WHFred wrote: Wed Jan 03, 2024 11:49 pm One thing I forgot to ask -

I'd like to get a set of the speed bleeders for both fronts and rear, but I'm not sure on what spec to purchase. Searching this forum I came across a recommendation for Goodridge SB7100, which is an M7 x 1.0 size. This is for a 69 SRL311. Can anyone confirm that this size works?

Thanks

This what you need: Speedbleeders part number is Goodridge SB3824. A search may bring up Dorman part number 12701. It is the right thread but pretty sure not the correct length. 1.19 (Dorman) vs 1.26 in. (Goodridge) length. I'd stick with Goodridge to be sure even though it's a couple bucks more than Dorman.

Keep in mind that Speed Bleeders is a copyrighted name and the the others will likely be called something else.

Got it. Thanks!