Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

So I swapped out a 4 speed with a 5 tranny. Used all the necessary 5 speed parts including the engine plate. However I'm having problems getting the shifting down.

When I first started it up, I could use the clutch to get it out of gear when I started the car in gear, but could not go from neutral, then in to gear with engine spinning. I backed off the slave cylinder nut, and now the stick shift feels like it is in neutral but it is always in gear, like it is in 3rd gear and then I can shift in to reverse, but I cant seem to get it in neutral. I really hope this is adjustment issue and I don't have to pull the motor again.

How much do you know about the history of 5-speed tranny. Do you KNOW it was OK before you installed it??
If I understand correctly - you CAN shift to all gears, but just never can find neutral?

Important note. I reused the pressure plate, didn't look to bad and none were available locally, and used the the t /o bearing that came with trans, looked to be in good conditioned and was mounted to the fork. Looking back that was my mistake not to replace these. You live and you learn.

The tranny appeared good, had it in neutral no problem out of the car, and had it in neutral when I fired it up at first in the car.

Ok well it's seemed to have found neutral again and goes in to gear no problem, I think it is just an adjustment issue. I read the wiki about it And followed that but the pedal still feels a little week. There was to spring on it when I removed the transmission transmission, is this necessary. Obviously I will replace it, but wanted to know it's affect on functionality. Thanks.

Could be one of many things...first guess is excessive wear in the pin that connects the shift fork to the control (shifter stick handle). I assume you have both rubber bushings on the shifter handle and the bottom nut on the shifter handle is tight?

Could be the sleeve with the throw out bearing is not properly aligned to the clutch fork...inside of the bell housing...so you aren't fully dressing the clutch pressure plate.

Did you replace the clutch disk? New?

How does the clutch feel on you foot...lighter than before the swap? Can you shift thru gears with engine off with clutch depressed?

How much play in the shifter?

Just some WAGS based on what you have written.

I do have the rubber bushings in the shift stick and they are good. Free play in the shifter is very little, the shifter is tight with a close shift "gate"

Clutch is new. Clutch feels lighter then before though. I should have replaced the pressure plate. I might bled the clutch even though I didn't open up the system. I can shift through gears with engine off just fine with our without the clutch.

Can you explain the t/o bearing alignment?

I can think of two more possibilities, not enough stroke on the clutch slave piston, (pedal pin slop, mis-adjusted slave piston pin or air in the fluid) so the clutch is dragging a bit or, the nose of the tranny input shaft could be pressed in to the tranny but you stated you used the thicker tranny sandwich plate. Crud in the crankshaft hole? I suppose you could raise the rear off the ground, start it in neutral and see if the tires spin.

This sounds like classic failure of the clutch to release. The clutch and pressure plate need to be replaced as a set because clearances are critical. The release bearing is ALWAYS replaced when renewing the clutch. The interface of release bearing and clutch can be predicted and adjusted with a special tool, but it can be done without it as well by measuring the distance of both the release bearing and the clutch fingers from the mating surfaces of both transmission and engine. The clutch fingers need to be adjusted so that the release bearing surface is going to be just clear of the fingers when the transmission is bolted up. Sometimes washers need to be added between the flywheel and pressure plate to gain needed space for release. Sometimes washers have been left out during a clutch change.

Did you use the 4 speed clutch lever arm or the 5 speed lever arm? The 5 speed arm has a notch in it and makes a huge difference in the way the transmission shifts.

Ross
sports imports

Well I used the 5 speed fork and what looked to be a new bearing. What your saying about the clearances makes sense and I bet that is the problem. I will bleed the system and adjust the slave cylinder , because it feels like it is short stroking. Maybe I can adjust it to work. If that doesn't help I will pull the engine and and replace the throw out bearing with known good part numbers and condition. Thanks for all the help. How would I be able to tell if the clutch was dragging? I just don't want to burn it up.

Bigmike253 wrote:
Can you explain the t/o bearing alignment?

The clutch fork engages two ears on the throw out bearing sleeve. There is a wire spring clip that keeps the fork surface in contact with the sleeve ear. It is possible to not have the fork sitting on the sleeve ears...not likely, but possible. I have had the fork come loose from the sleeve during assembly. That's why I suggest it as a possibility...for what ever reason, the clutch doesn't seem to be disengaging from the flywheel.

Also, there is a spring clip inside the fork that keeps the fork on the pivot ball. If the fork doesn't pivot, you may not get proper engagement of the clutch pressure plate fingers.

First thing I would do is jack up the car and have a friend actuate the clutch while you watch how much throw it has. If it barely moves then you know it needs to be bled or inspected for wear in the pedal pin, etc.

Also look here....

http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... ole#p58176

OK guys, I removed the engine and transmission. I replaced the throwout bearing and pressure plate. Double checked the release fork assembly and reinstalled the Engine.

Now on jack stands it shifted ok a few times then seems like it's stuck in gear. With engine on and in neutral shifts in to 1st ok, if I attempt to shift into any other gear as soon as I let the clutch out it kills the engine inatantly. I bled the system and that is OK. I still need to check piston travel and the pin on the pedal.

Side note, after the swap, I cannot get the rear passenger wheel to spin. Almost like it is locked up. Ideas?

Bigmike253 wrote:OK guys, I removed the engine and transmission. I replaced the throwout bearing and pressure plate. Double checked the release fork assembly and reinstalled the Engine.

Now on jack stands it shifted ok a few times then seems like it's stuck in gear. With engine on and in neutral shifts in to 1st ok, if I attempt to shift into any other gear as soon as I let the clutch out it kills the engine inatantly. I bled the system and that is OK. I still need to check piston travel and the pin on the pedal.

Side note, after the swap, I cannot get the rear passenger wheel to spin. Almost like it is locked up. Ideas?

What did you do before reassembly to check the distance of the release bearing from the clutch fingers when the release bearing is in the retracted position?