no start

shifty · Post by **shifty** » Mon Apr 25, 2005 12:22 am

I got back late today from a trip and hooked up the new Otpima battery for Zippy.

I'm getting juice, looks like the front right side indicator bulb is out. Everything else works, but nothing when I try to start it. No clicks, no nothing. No movement on the amp gauge.

Where do I start figuring out what's up? (I'm a little too tired to think straight right now!) TIA.

There seems to be a big delay when operating any switch - maybe I've gotten used to modern cars - it's been at least 4 years since I've had a working roadster!

sgriffin · Post by **sgriffin** » Mon Apr 25, 2005 3:43 am

Leigh:
I would check the relay on the left side of the engine compartment about 6-8 inches from the firewall toward the radiator. Are your leads hooked up to you distributor? Just me methodical and logical as you check out each potential source of lost or no spark. Good luck. Sam

Post by **S Allen** » Mon Apr 25, 2005 8:49 am

Shifty,

It could be a fried amp gauge or a faulty fuse block or a bad gorund. No power running through the amp gauge means you will never get the car started. I am pretty sure the later cars had the very same problem as the early cars when it comes to the amp gauge. It is a place to start. Let us know what you find out.

Steve

Post by **Datrock** » Mon Apr 25, 2005 10:05 am

Hello, Leigh, First I would check the wire coming off the starter, not the heavy gauge battery wire but the one that clips on the smaller post. Also check the connections that are just under the Master cylinders, those wires may have been pulled on during the R/R.
Sounds like you got juice but it's not making it to the starter to activate the sealanoid(???). If all these are fine then I would check the wires on the back of the ignition switch to see if any are loose or hanging there..... Bill

Phil Herring · Post by **Phil Herring** » Mon Apr 25, 2005 11:24 am

Leigh, The soleniod could be stuck. Tap it a few times with a hammer or a tool. This happened to me on a new (rebuilt ) starter recently and this freed it up. I have had to do this for a few weeks and will have the starter replaced under warranty. Your symptons were the same as mine. Good luck. Phil Herring Charlotte, NC 69 2000

shifty · Post by **shifty** » Mon Apr 25, 2005 12:24 pm

Thanks guys!

Is there a ground that goes from the starter to the frame? Thought the small wire was the ground. Here's a pic from before I swapped engines - missing anything?

Post by **spl310** » Mon Apr 25, 2005 12:41 pm

Those connections look pretty nasty. I would suggest that you take them apart and clean them thoroughly and reassemble. There should be a ground strap from the chassis to one of the mounting bolts for the starter. There is a bolt on the frame just for that...

Post by **Datrock** » Mon Apr 25, 2005 12:43 pm

Things look like they are hooked up right at this end. Leigh, I would definately clean the contacts, lets hope the other ends are connected correctly too. As for the ground there should be one that goes from a bolt hole in the frame to one of the starter to bellhousing mounting bolts. The smaller wire connected to the spade should connect into the plug near the master cylinder. Most roadsters have a 3 wire hookup some late 69 and 70 models should have a 4 wire plug. Bill

shifty · Post by **shifty** » Mon Apr 25, 2005 1:18 pm

Aha! I am missing the bell housing to frame ground. Don't remember one being on this car, but I think I have one in my "extra" parts stash.

I was thinking of using those braided ground straps on the rat. Anything wrong with using beefier ground straps?

Post by **S Allen** » Mon Apr 25, 2005 2:09 pm

Those are pretty crusty looking connections.

You can use any type or ground strap you like. It is the ones totally missing that cause problems. I used a heavy duty braided one on my stroker.

Steve

Post by **Datrock** » Mon Apr 25, 2005 3:04 pm

Yes, do install one there. While looking thru the wheel well you should see a small bolt or screw head on the top of the frame, if not , take a small mirror and you should see the threaded hole in the top of the frame, it's there for the ground.
Before you try starting again make sure your gas pedal moves and the choke wires are not welded to the casings too, I'm sure there's a few roadster owners that can relate to this happening.... Bill

Post by **ppeters914** » Mon Apr 25, 2005 5:13 pm

That lower, left bolt actually looks like it has the remains of a braided ground strap, so I'm gonna go w/ the group consensus and say "Ground it!"

Post by **spl310** » Mon Apr 25, 2005 8:07 pm

Nope! That is not the remains of the ground strap. That is the he-man mongo wire to feed the starter motor from the solenoid...

SLOroadster · Post by **SLOroadster** » Mon Apr 25, 2005 9:26 pm

A ground strap from the frame to the bell housing/ starter mount. Hmm, my car never had one, thats a new one. I have 2 running from the block on the head on the other side, but nothing from anywhere near the starter.

I'm sure you have the picture on the contacts, it could be a stuck solinoid on top of having ugly contacts, with the amount of crud on there, it wouldn't surprise me.

Will

Post by **Datrock** » Mon Apr 25, 2005 10:12 pm

The late model frames have threaded holes for grounds at the starter and altenator and near the voltage regulator.
I have on the passenger side, the battery ground to the block then a wire back to the frame hole and for safe measures I also run one from the block over to the volt regulator mount.
Then on the drivers side, the altenator ground and one from the starter mount bolt.
I have fried my throttle cable and welded it solid, I was 50 milws from home and ended up unhooking the chokes and using one of the lines as my hand throttle to get home. All due to a lack of grounding the engine properly. The starter will find a way to ground out no matter what source it has to go thru.
As for Leigh's no start problem, I believe there are other issues than just a lack of grounding... Bill

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