Distributor Alignment.

[C.Costine]

Which engine are we talking about here? After storing for twelve years I need to pre lube. I have prelubed other motors by pulling the dizzy and putting an appropriately tipped rod in to engage the pump or a link. And turning with a drill.

[Linda]

Both engines I believe. Yes you can, and should pre-lube, counterclockwise. But then you get to install the drive gear and dizzy .

Linda

[tobias67]

Hello together,
I need some advice for my distributor alignment. Car is a 67.5 1600 and the distributor is way out of range. The previous owner cut the „range plate“ at one side and drilled an additional threat so adjustments are possible. I am planning to install a new coil and ballast resistor. At this point I want to set the distributor right. At TDC the rotor points to #1. After pulling the distributor the drive shaft is in the position as shown in the picture.
As far as I know the engine was rebuild at some point. When I turn the distributor to the middle the car will not even idle. Has anyone some advice?

Thanks!

[rwmann]

No experience with the R16, but on the U20, it is possible to install the distributor shaft 180 degrees out of alignment.

[david premo]

Hi Tobias,
Your distributor drive gear is a tooth off if you are at TDC in the photo you posted.
Dave

[Nissanman]

It is 180deg out. #1 lead position is at about the 1100 o'clock position for the rotor.
The engine will run with that timing but the ignition leads need to be re-clocked to suit - not very professional.
You need to withdraw the distributor, withdraw and rotate the distributor drive gear, then re-insert the distributor so that the rotor is at the lead position for #1.
That position is indicated by an ridge on the distributor cap, which only goes on one way.
The drive gear is able to mesh anywhere on the cam shaft but the top end is keyed to the distributor shaft so that is where the issue is.

Once correctly oriented, you can then set the LOWER distributor clamp so that the static BTDC setting for #1 on compression is at the centre of the graduated plate. Then you can utilise the degree marks on the plate to advance or retard from the static setting.
Once correctly oriented, you will have enough adjustment range to alter the timing without resorting to an extra hole

[JT68]

Just to confuse you a bit more, the drive gear is actually 180 -1 tooth out. the "small c" on the top of the shaft should be to the rear of the engine AND the slot should be at about 11:30-12 o'clock (with 12 o'clock pointing directly at the head)) This assumes the engine is currently at TDC for #1.
(you need to remove the distributor base to correct this). When you get it right, the rotor will be pointing directly at the #1cap terminal at 10 o'clock.

One other interesting note, you would not need to change any of this to run a 123 distributor! Those can be positioned 360degrees, so any rotation. You would insert the 123, as-is, and turn it to whatever position you need and it will run immediately. Doesn't get simpler than that. Very cool.

[Gregs672000]

You are confusing me JT... the only other gear is the tach drive gear and that's in the base, but maybe you can elaborate (oh wait... the jackshaft must drive the pump and dizzy, but it doesn't care does it?). The oil pump slot needs to be set so it accepts the gear's key as it rotates in past the tach drive gear (long slotted screw driver will turn the oil pump). Being 180 out on the dizzy gear has been explained, so the dizzy gear slot offset needs to be rotated 180 degrees. If the oil pump has not moved it should just slide back into the oil pump slot as it is not offset. It can get extremely frustrating trying to rotate that gear again and again, and resistant to pulling out (I have used a small pair of needle nose pliers to grab it). This will test your patience, but you will get it.

Be aware, there are two adjustment screws on the dizzy... 10mm head mounting bolt that goes through the plate, and a secondary 8mm on the underside of the dizzy that can be helpful for final adjustment related to the pointer on the dizzy mount plate scale (some use this to set timing using the pointer and the scale on the dizzy post/mount without using a timing light... I suggest a timing light!).

[jhayden]

This video shows how to correct the problem discussed in this thread, and the correct position JT refers to in his post @ 6:44 (photo on the left):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgK_-7Vccqo&t=20s

Jon

[tobias67]

Wow. Thanks for the fast and detailed answers! I thought about a wrong installed drive shaft as mentioned, but didn’t know how and where to start.

Learning more and more about this car. I am curious what else from it’s lifetime will pop up. Thanks again!

[JT68]

You are confusing me JT... the only other gear is the tach drive gear and that's in the base, but maybe you can elaborate (oh wait... the jackshaft must drive the pump and dizzy, but it doesn't care does it?). The oil pump slot needs to be set so it accepts the gear's key as it rotates in past the tach drive gear (long slotted screw driver will turn the oil pump). Being 180 out on the dizzy gear has been explained, so the dizzy gear slot offset needs to be rotated 180 degrees. If the oil pump has not moved it should just slide back into the oil pump slot as it is not offset. It can get extremely frustrating trying to rotate that gear again and again, and resistant to pulling out (I have used a small pair of needle nose pliers to grab it). This will test your patience, but you will get it.

Be aware, there are two adjustment screws on the dizzy... 10mm head mounting bolt that goes through the plate, and a secondary 8mm on the underside of the dizzy that can be helpful for final adjustment related to the pointer on the dizzy mount plate scale (some use this to set timing using the pointer and the scale on the dizzy post/mount without using a timing light... I suggest a timing light!).

The Japanese video has it correct, small c of the OP/dist drive gear goes to the rear, with the slot at about 11:30. This should position the distributor rotor so it is pointing almost directly at the #4 spark plug hole in the head (and therefore the #1 spark plug terminal on the cap).

Like I said the 123 is cool since it can rotate and lock down in 360degree rotation, so ANY position needed can be obtained without having to move the lower drive gear. Easy.

[david premo]

So I’m going to say it still just a tooth off, attached is a picture of the way it is oriented when the distributor is rotor tip at about 11:00 TDC between compression stroke and power stroke. So based on your rotor at 5:00 I would say that either it has not been verified which TDC the engine is at or the distributor could have been assembled 180 degrees out. Look carefully at the photo from the factory shop manual.
Dave

[tobias67]

Thanks again for the help. Here is a little update:
I was 180 degree (and maybe a tooth) off. I checked the valves to make sure I am at #1 TDC. I managed to put the parts correct together. After the fourth try the drive was in the correct position . Now I need to set the timing with my timing gun. Can’t wait to drive again.

[Nissanman]

Well done!
I might add that you will have learnt something about the nuances of these cars.