Hello from WI
Posted: Sun Feb 15, 2015 4:44 pm
Just joined today. Purchased a 1966 1600 about four years ago in very rough condition. So far resortation work on it has been sporatic, most of that seeming to be more backwards than forward. Found the frame was damaged as well as one of the front coil springs. Obtained a replacement frame (1969) but had to take the engine, trans, and rear axle with it (no front susp). Moved the original front susp to the 69 frame and Tim (another WI member) donated a set of front coil springs. The frame and suspension was finished end of this past summer so now its on to repairing the body and the engine.
My shed is not heated so work on it is not a winter thing however a couple of weeks ago we had temps in the high 30s and that is enough to work for a while so I started cleaning up the original engine. A bit of (1966) engine history--it had sat for some 10 years but did not take too much to get it running at it seemed to run faily well. Someone in its past had installed a non-smog alum head. However when I removed the intake and exhaust and was cleaning the block I found the block appears to have been cracked and welded up. There are weld lines just under the freeze plugs and extending up between the middle and rear plug.
The weld appears not to leak coolant but I think I will use the 69 block and move the 66 front pulley and water pump to the 69 block--at least I think they will transfer. But then....I noticed while hand turning the 69 crank all did not seem correct on the valves and their up and downs. The valves seemed to be 90 degrees or so off. The intake was opening on the piston's up stroke while the exhaust opened on a down stroke?!! The timing markes on the cam and crank sprockets lined up. It took two beers and a couple of hours of pondering to guess the key in the camshaft must have falled out when the sprocket was installed, probably fell un-noticed into the oil pan and although the marks stay lined up the cam has moved and maybe continues to do so. There were signs of recent seal-a-gasket on the front cover to indicate the possibility someone worked on it.
My next move is to drop the oil pan and see if there is a key laying in there. Even though I am dying to find out that will have to wait for a warmer day as it is now -2 degrees. If I find the key then plan to re-install it and see if the compression is OK. Anyone know if a 1600 is an interference (valve to piston) engine?
That about sums up my roadster history. With luck the body repairs will be done and the car in primer by the end of the coming summer. Cannot predict future status on the engine until warmer temps allow for more investigation.
I really like this roadster but I did forget one of the first rules of restoration--what you can see that needs work is only, AT BEST, one third of what you will find that needs work. Even so I have actually got more attached to it, it has kind of become like the little Xmas tree in the old Charlie Brown cartoon. Thanks for letting me ramble on, I have nothing else to do on a Sunday with the temp at -2.
My shed is not heated so work on it is not a winter thing however a couple of weeks ago we had temps in the high 30s and that is enough to work for a while so I started cleaning up the original engine. A bit of (1966) engine history--it had sat for some 10 years but did not take too much to get it running at it seemed to run faily well. Someone in its past had installed a non-smog alum head. However when I removed the intake and exhaust and was cleaning the block I found the block appears to have been cracked and welded up. There are weld lines just under the freeze plugs and extending up between the middle and rear plug.
The weld appears not to leak coolant but I think I will use the 69 block and move the 66 front pulley and water pump to the 69 block--at least I think they will transfer. But then....I noticed while hand turning the 69 crank all did not seem correct on the valves and their up and downs. The valves seemed to be 90 degrees or so off. The intake was opening on the piston's up stroke while the exhaust opened on a down stroke?!! The timing markes on the cam and crank sprockets lined up. It took two beers and a couple of hours of pondering to guess the key in the camshaft must have falled out when the sprocket was installed, probably fell un-noticed into the oil pan and although the marks stay lined up the cam has moved and maybe continues to do so. There were signs of recent seal-a-gasket on the front cover to indicate the possibility someone worked on it.
My next move is to drop the oil pan and see if there is a key laying in there. Even though I am dying to find out that will have to wait for a warmer day as it is now -2 degrees. If I find the key then plan to re-install it and see if the compression is OK. Anyone know if a 1600 is an interference (valve to piston) engine?
That about sums up my roadster history. With luck the body repairs will be done and the car in primer by the end of the coming summer. Cannot predict future status on the engine until warmer temps allow for more investigation.
I really like this roadster but I did forget one of the first rules of restoration--what you can see that needs work is only, AT BEST, one third of what you will find that needs work. Even so I have actually got more attached to it, it has kind of become like the little Xmas tree in the old Charlie Brown cartoon. Thanks for letting me ramble on, I have nothing else to do on a Sunday with the temp at -2.
